5F6-A new build research advice needed

[Bangy]

I have successfully completed my trilogy of 5F2A's and decided to build a pair of 5F6A's as a preliminary project before tackling my ultimate goal of S Sluckeys AC-15.

I am considering using Dougs turret board builder to modify his layout and incorporate a few of the R. Robinette mods.
Has anybody incorporated some RR mods into Dougs layout? I welcome your experience with doing so, and curious which mods you liked and disliked????

Transformers.

Which transformers do you prefer?

Power.
Mojo 762 120V/354VAC 250mA, 50V bias, 6VAC @ 4a, 5 VAC @ 4a
Classictone 40-18073 650 Vct @ 200Ma, 50V bias, 5V @ 3a, 6.3V @5a

Help. . . 650VCT would mean 325VAC high voltage secondary. correct? Is it true that 325 high voltage is ideal for the 5F6-A?
The mA rating of 200 vs 250 -- I don't understand the significance of a higher current rating. Would somebody explain the benefits and drawbacks??

Output Transformer
What brand is Doug's?  Anybody out there have an opinion on this one? It has multiple output taps which Im not a big fan of in my limited experience.
Has anyone used the Classictone 18083?

Bangy

[ernie_jr]

Doug's is the MOJO 762. Great tranny, just got one myself for a 5f6-a build. Mojo will give you about 450 volts, classictone about
425. Not much difference and you call try different rectifiers to get the voltage/tone you are looking for. Also, can't beat the price or service Doug gives you.
Ernie

[robrob]

Personally I prefer the lower power transformer voltage option because with today's higher wall voltages you need the lower voltage option to get even close to what Fender intended "back in the day."

For mods I highly recommend adjustable bias be built in from the start and set up your circuit board so it will be easy to add the second negative feedback resistor for the switched NFB mod. You can add the switch and actually do the mod after you get the amp up and running.

You should also consider voicing one of the channels with the "Lead Channel" mod right from the start because there's so little difference between the stock bright and normal channels.

RobRobinette

[Bangy]

Pretty sure DOUGs PT delivers 356VAC, and it seems 325V is the magic number with a wall VAC of 120.  Thanks RR. I plan on encorporating the mods in the planning of the turret board with the help of Dougs CNC machine.  Pretty exciting to have that luxurary.  And yea you cannot beat Dougs customer service I agree.  I buy everything I can from him.  What I really need to do is pull out my 5F6A that leo made and take some voltage readings.

If anyone out there has amended Dougs board to incorporate RobRobs mods I would love to hear from them.

Also anyone willing to educate a Newbie on the the benefits of a higher rated resistance in the high power secondary TAp?

Its exciting going out on my own a bit, a first for me.

And RR thanks for the education. I read and reread your work. It is truly a Godsend for me. . . .Bangy

[dunner84]

I used the Hammond 125ESE and the Hammond 291AX. I couldn't have asked for a better sounding amp! I had 3 10" speakers to chose from: Celstion gold, Weber F150, and a 10 mojotone alnico. The mojotone is by far the best sounding speaker in this amp. I have since tested it with dozens of other speakers of all sizes, and that 10" mojotone is still the best.

I haven't seen any of Rob's mods for this amp, but I have made use of his mods in my 5e3. I made two switchable modifications to the circuit. I included a NFB lift switch, and a preamp voice switch that switches between the stock cathode bypass cap value, a 4.7uf and none. I highly recommend both after you build the amp. You can pre-plan for the preamp switch by adding two turrets/eyelets beside the V1 cathode bypass cap.

I think it makes the amp more humbucker friendly, and more importantly it can double as a sweet harp amp.

I primarily play the amp in it's stock configuration, because it sounds best that way. The NFB switch gives you that untamed extra kick for when you want it, and the preamp switch tames the amp right down.

I know the 5f2a is known as a crunch monster, and it does it so well, but it has some of the sweetest clean tones as well. Roll the tone back about 1/5th, set the volume to about 4 or 5 and it's clean tone heaven. I don't know if that is by virtue of the larger OT or if it is part of the circuit, but the clean tones are incredible, and they are there at a decent volume too.

[Bangy]

Oops, although the title of the thread mentions the 5F6-A, I iintially made a mistake asking for info on the 5F2A circuit.  I meant to say I have completed three of these amps in the past and now I am looking for info on the 5F6-A or tweed Bassman.

Im trying to figure out the best way to modify Dougs board to incorporate Rob Robinette mods. I'll either use his web based turret designer or Ill take the dive and by some software.  Does Visio work with MAc's?  Any other recommendations for MAc?  It would be nice to create a layout after a finish the complete circuit I'll build.

[dunner84]

Ahhh you're right. I miss read that!

I used the mojo trannies for my bassman build. I think the amp sounds great. I modded the bassman similar to my 5e3. The normal channel gets the lead voice, and the 3way NFB switch is fantastic. I am going to be putting it on a foot switch. The pre amp mod is similar to what I did on my 5f2a, and I should have done it in this amp too. I would say it's not a must have mod for most people, I get a lot of use because I will use a harmonica from time to time, and I can get some nice jazz tones with humbuckers.

I tried the master volume control and took it out.

Also the raw control adds a nice overdrive character. It's different than lifting the NFB. It's a worthwhile mod, and I would recommend the control as opposed to the switch.

Figure out which of Rob's mods you want to do and add the appropriate turrets to your board. Separating the cathodes for V1 etc..

My amp is sharing a 2x10 cabinet designed for my ab763. It has a celeation gold and a weber 10 f150.. I think they sound perfect together, but are better suited to the ab763 circuit. I think the amp sounded best through my friends 12" jbl k130.0

[Bangy]

Hey Dunner great info. . . Thanks for sharing it. .

When you built your bassman, did you use one of the Cad programs to design a layout specifically for your build?  And did you create your own turret board using Dougs CNC machine?  It sure sounds like that is the way to go.  It would be great if I could just take Doug's Bassman file and modify it a wee bit to accommodate the mods.

I am thinking: The lead voice. NFB 3 way (on a footswitch is how I did it on my 5F2A), RAw Pot control, Fixed and cathode Bias switch, and adjustable bias.

I really want to do this right and create a layout and turret board to house all the mods, to keep me straight as I build.

Anybody have any ideas which CAD program to use with a MAc? I have never used one before.

Bangy

[sluckey]

It would be great if I could just take Doug's Bassman file and modify it a wee bit to accommodate the mods.

I am thinking: The lead voice. NFB 3 way (on a footswitch is how I did it on my 5F2A), RAw Pot control, Fixed and cathode Bias switch, and adjustable bias.

There's not much to do to Doug's board to accommodate the mods you listed. You will need to add only one turret and remove one under-board jumper. Study Doug's board and Rob's mod info and you will see how easy it is. Just order a few extra turrets or ask Doug to install the one extra turret you need.

1. Lead voice... Component value changes only. No changes to board.

2. NFB 3 way switch... Add one turret to accommodate the additional 10K resistor. Everything else is just wires and a switch. I'd be very interested to see how you did this with a footswitch. Maybe you only had two choices rather than 3?

3. Raw pot... No changes to board. Just add the pot and simple wiring change.

4. Fixed/Cathode bias switch... No changes to board. Remove one under-board jumper then wire up the switch. Mount the resistor/cap on the switch.

5.Adjustable bias... Already built into Doug's board.
 

[robrob]

You should add a turret for the lead voice channel so you can separate the v1a and v1b cathodes.

In this graphic the extra turrets are shown in pink:

[sluckey]

You should add a turret for the lead voice channel so you can separate the v1a and v1b cathodes.

That's already done with Hoffman's board. Take a look...

     http://el34world.com/Hoffman/files/Hoffman_5F6A.pdf

[dunner84]

I lay out my own turret boards. I have a collection of boards from old organs that I either cut to size or attach, and they fit the turrets I buy.
I use diylc for layouts. It works on my PC and my MAC. If you want actual CAD software, the entire Autodesk suite is free if you click you're a student, or it's for non professional use. If you build the stock layout in diylc, you can add the mods in after the fact, and rearrange things as required.
As sluckey mentioned, the Hoffman layout is already nicely laid out for the mods you want to do.

[Bangy]

WOW!!!!!

Thanks you guys, Mr Sluckey, RobRob, Dunner, and D Hoffman. This forumn is unreal. I pose a question last night before bed and I wake up to ALL my queries are not only answered on how to, but basically completed for me. Doug has created an amazing culture here. And it's not unnoticed, bu rather greatly appreciated.

I will try the the DIYLC. I downloaded a file on RobRobs site and the file format was .DIY which I assume is from this program. It is official I am an amp building nut. I hope I can give back somehow, someday.

Peace ya'll

Bangy

[robrob]

That's already done with Hoffman's board. Take a look...

     http://el34world.com/Hoffman/files/Hoffman_5F6A.pdf

Very nice. I love how the Hoffman board has the power tube grid leak resistors separated too which makes a bunch of mods easier. An extra turret for a second NFB resistor would be a nice addition.

[sluckey]

This is what I was going to suggest for that extra turret...

[robrob]

That'll do.

[Bangy]

Fantastic guys.  I am now going through Dougs Layout (Component by component) checking against Leo's schematic to understand exactly whats happening. 

I have found:

1). Doug uses a 1.5k resistor bypassed with 22/50V cap on V1's cathode pin 8, where Leo Does not. I assume this is to voice each channel differently. Correct?
And is a piece of RobRobs Lead channel Mod, with different values.
2). DOUG uses 3W screen grid resistors.  I used 1W in my 5F2A builds for extra protection. Like an internal fuse. Any problem with lowering this value to 1W?
3) What is the 1 ohm resistor to pins 1 and 8 on the power tubes?
4).I cant read a component which looks to be ln4007 in the bias circuit.  What is this?
5). I plan to spec a PT with 6.3V CT, so Ill have two extra lugs at the end where the 100ohm resistors are, correct?

I have written the components role on the layout (RobRobs work), and I will now encorporate the RobRob Mods into the Layout. I have encorporated (hand drawing) Slucky's 10K resistor placement for the negative feedback switch.

I intend to add the following to Dougs layout, The Bangy Robafied Hoffman layout will include:
1). Gain Boost switch
2). Lead Channel Mod-- Rob Rob what jumper needs to be clipped?  I dont see one on Dougs layout.
3). Raw tone cut
4). 3-way negative feedback switch
5). Adujtable feedback which Doug already has.  Correct?
6). Is there a mod to switch channels from a footswitch? Then this would be a live players dream.

Is this OK with you Mr. RobRob, Doug and crew? Pardon me if I am overstepping my bounds as I am new and do not quite understand protocol. My objective is to have a clean layout to work from. If this is cool with ya'll. . .I can share this with the group or simply keep this to myself as you guys wish.

If its all systems go, it would be great to start with Dougs file and make the small changes. This would be added value for Newbie builders like me.  Im thinking of incorporating asterisk values for the mods alongside Dougs values like the Vox AC-15 schematic which used an Asterisk for Bass values.

Lastly, I have original OT from a tweed bassman 45249 for one, and I am thinking the classictone for the second build. RobRob I know you used the MM, any others have any experience with the classictone OT or. . . ??? Recommendations?

Power transformer--It sounds like 325-0-325 is the magic spec for the high voltage. This way the amp is browned out at current wall VAC, correct?

OK, thats all I got 

Bangy

[sluckey]

1). Doug uses a 1.5k resistor bypassed with 22/50V cap on V1's cathode pin 8, where Leo Does not. I assume this is to voice each channel differently. Correct? ...yes

2). DOUG uses 3W screen grid resistors.  I used 1W in my 5F2A builds for extra protection. Like an internal fuse. Any problem with lowering this value to 1W? ...Leo used 1W. I've seen many burned up.

3) What is the 1 ohm resistor to pins 1 and 8 on the power tubes? ...used to monitor and adjust bias

4).I cant read a component which looks to be ln4007 in the bias circuit.  What is this? ...1N4007 is the bias rectifier. Easy to read on the schematic.

5). I plan to spec a PT with 6.3V CT, so Ill have two extra lugs at the end where the 100ohm resistors are, correct? ...yes, use the real CT or use the 100Ω resistors. Your choice.

2). Lead Channel Mod-- Rob Rob what jumper needs to be clipped?  I dont see one on Dougs layout. ...There ain't one. Rob's mod instructions are specific to the original 5F6A layout. You'll have to adapt them to Doug's layout. That particular jumper would have been on V1 socket, pins 3 and 8 for the original layout. As said earlier, all you gotta do is change a few component values.

5). Adujtable feedback which Doug already has.  Correct? ...NO, unless you want to consider the presence pot an adjustable feedback.

6). Is there a mod to switch channels from a footswitch? Then this would be a live players dream ...use an AB/Y switch

Power transformer--It sounds like 325-0-325 is the magic spec for the high voltage. This way the amp is browned out at current wall VAC, correct? ...Hammond 290DX is a good match. Also has a filament CT

.

[Willabe]

Power transformer--It sounds like 325-0-325 is the magic spec for the high voltage.

There is NO 'magic' spec for the B+ secondary wind.

If you had several cars from different manufacturers, all with the same Hp engine they would all still drive/handle differently. 

You could get several different companies PT's all with the same B+ high voltage wind spec, say your 325-0-325, and because of the PT's B+ winds current rating, the materials they used, including the type of lamenents, B+ wire gauge, how they wound it which dictate the internal resistance of the PT B+ wind, they would all have a different B+ dcv when loaded.

Some will run higher when loaded, some will run lower when loaded, maybe as much as 60vdc. Hard to know until you get it in the amp fully loaded.

Fender has on most of their schematics a foot note that says 'all voltages +/- 20%'. Most/all classic tube amps from the 50's/60's/70's all used this same tolerance. So if you had 20 different amps of the same model and measured their B+, they could/would all have a different B+dcv.

If you were shooting for a certain amps B+dcv that's listed on it's schemo, lets say 350dcv (loaded) and you had 3 PT's to swap in/out with 1 hitting the 350dcv, 1 sitting at 300dcv and the last 1 sitting at 400dcv you may or may not even hear/fell a difference when playing through the amp. And if you can hear/feel a difference it may be somewhat subtle, depends on the amp, your playing style and how hard you run the amp, ie, clean/some what broken up/full tilt.

Some guys end up being very happy by just increasing the preamp tubes B+ dropping R's to 'brown' out the amps sound when their B+ is on the high side.

[Bangy]

Sorry Sluckey, I am going too fast and I missed your answer's from my initial enquiry. But after sitting with Dougs layout and Robs mods I am closer to absorbition of the material. For example. . .

5). Adujtable feedback which Doug already has.  Correct? ...NO, unless you want to consider the presence pot an adjustable feedback.

My typo--I meant to say Dougs layout incorporates Adjutable Bias, not feedback. Which you already answered.

Thanks again Sluckey. When you say AB/Y switch are you simply referring to an external ABY switch where gtr input = Y, A+B = inputs to the dif channels of the 5F6-A. Clever, perfect solution.

Got it Willabe, thats some great stuff- thanks for the background info on PT's. It makes a ton more sense.

If I can just make a neat layout with the mods. I suppose I will just hand draw them on Dougs layout and ask him to add the one turret for the 10K resistor as Sluckey illustrated.

To Sluckey- You asked how I did the NFB mod with a footswitch on the 5F2A, and you guessed I only had 2 values not 3 to switch. Correctamundo. And it was actually not a true NFB switch. I put  (-) of a 25/50V cap between the 22K and 1.5K resistors of the 2nd cathode (V1) and the (-) to a three way 1/4" jack. It works great.

[Bangy]

I am putting together my layout with the Mods, and I just saw something that has me scratching my very bald head. Doug uses 5 22uf Filter caps, replacing an 8uf with the fifth 22uf cap and Leo used 4 22's and the 8uf. . .

Why?

And what differences in the amp should I expect?

Anybody?

[sluckey]

Because Doug is smarter and not as cheap as Leo.   

[Bangy]

I cant stop laughing. . . .

Ok Fair enough. . . But in general what would raising the capacitance of an electrolytic accomplish?

Next. . .Mr. Sluckey -- I want to to use your diagram to use a footswitch to bypass V2 cathode using a plain old 1/4 inch jack, but I don't understand the diagram.

I see a cathode resistor to ground-- bypassed by a cap which has 1). a relay (Im guessing)???, 2). 1M resistor to Gnd, and 3). a footswitch.

1). What is the open connection south of the cap?

2). If I was to wire a 1/4 TSG 3 conductor jack SC12A for example--how would I wire the leads to that jack bearing in mind your diagram.

I hope this is clear as mud.

As always Thanks again for the knowledge and now the humor as well. . .

Bangy

[sluckey]

But in general what would raising the capacitance of an electrolytic accomplish?

A more expensive amp with better filtering.

I want to to use your diagram to use a footswitch to bypass V2 cathode using a plain old 1/4 inch jack, but I don't understand the diagram.

I don't know what diagram you are talking about.

[Bangy]

I attached the diagram that you posted on another thread.

Its at the bottom of my last post.

[sluckey]

I attached the diagram that you posted on another thread.

OK. I don't remember that drawing. Hope you dug it up from years ago. Would you post a link to that thread?

I see a cathode resistor to ground-- bypassed by a cap which has 1). a relay (Im guessing)???

That's just a panel mounted toggle switch.

1). What is the open connection south of the cap?

That's a switch contact.

2). If I was to wire a 1/4 TSG 3 conductor jack SC12A for example--how would I wire the leads to that jack bearing in mind your diagram.

I don't know what a TSG jack is. Do you mean TRS jack? Doesn't matter. Just use a switchcraft 12 jack and wire it exactly like the schematic.

[Bangy]

Would you post a link to that thread?

http://el34world.com/Forum/index.php?topic=14357.0

I plan on using a switchcraft 12A, three leads Tip, Switch, Gnd.

On 5F2A I was able to wire the bypass cap (-) to the tip, and it worked fine with a generic footswitch like fender uses.

[sluckey]

I plan on using a switchcraft 12A, three leads Tip, Switch, Gnd.

Duh! I should have been able to figure that out.

[HotBluePlates]

... I am considering using Dougs turret board builder to modify his layout and incorporate a few of the R. Robinette mods.
Has anybody incorporated some RR mods into Dougs layout? ...

Are you thinking you'll use a reproduction tweed Bassman chassis?

Mods take room. A tweed chassis doesn't have much room.  Mostly, what is in there stock just-fits.  From my own pain on past builds, I'd want either all parts in-hand before deciding to make changes (maybe not feasible with a custom board with extra turrets that you have to buy), or a bigger non-repro chassis.

And a larger chassis may not fit in the stock cabinet arrangement, because the transformers may no longer clear the speaker magnets.

When you get creative, the chances go up of an "Ahh, Sh!t" moment if you don't do tons of planning ahead of time...

[Bangy]

Hey HBP

Thanks for that look around the corner. I have a mojo chassis and I have printed out the Hoffman generic Hoffman Turret board as the backbone of my layout.
I really need to only add a few extra turrets, but I am losing two columns as I wont need the 100 ohm resistors at the far right as I will have a filament CT. I plan on only adding 3 switches, the NFB, rawtone, and a footswitch for the gain boost.  The rest is mainly value changes of components.

I intend to wire the Filter caps as did Lily and use the doghouse which will give me more space as well. I also make my own cabs.

See my Crayola layout (work in progress) below. I am hoping to run this by the forumn before I color in the pencil, so I have a nice CORRECT layout to work from. I know this is a caveman approach to layouts, but I am learning a ton, and the frustration level is low, a stark contrast to the last 48 hours as I tried to figure out 3 different CAD programs.  I can fly jets around the world but desktop computers seem to be above my intelligence level.

Maybe after the thinking is done I can conquer a professional layout but for now the crayola CAD will have to do. . .

More to come, and any of you fellow rookies out there considering the same idea, I highly reccomend drawing your own layout, even if you are just copying Dougs verbatim as it forces you to think through the circuit.

Peace fella's

Bangy

Sorry for the poor resolution but I didnt want to cram Dougs server with higher res pics. Just wanted you to get an idea of the chore at hand.

[HotBluePlates]

Do you really need 4 individual jacks for individual wires to each speaker?

I ask because you could just use a single jack & plug, and wire the 4 speakers in parallel (no different than how a Super Reverb is wired).

This could leave you a ready-made hole for the switch you're thinking of using (instead of cramming it in between speaker jacks & output tubes).

I think you'll find building the 5F6-A in a tweed chassis is a bit of "ship-in-a-bottle," which you probably already noticed if you used a tweed-style chassis in your 5F2-A builds.

[Bangy]

I thought about doing that, and I guess I'm just used to old tweed amps as I have been around them for many years.  The 5F2A builds didn't bother me in the least actually.  It took me until the 3rd 5F2A build to realize DOUG wanted us to populate the turret board before it is placed, that's how ignorant I was and once I did that the builds were a snap. 

I bought the chasisfirst to see the actually size of things and the interior of the chassis is over 18 inches the board is 10.5 inches and I will use the dog house for the Filter caps so to me the chassis will be roomy. (So to speak).

I will give the single jack some consideration.  I suppose I am stuck on the familiarity I have with the actual amps from Leo.  I even have original OT's. I am thinking I will only use 1 Reginald OT so I can compared the two in the exact same builds simultaneously.

Please keep all te suggestions coming, the planning stage your ideas are so important.  Thanks for chipping in.

BAngy

[sluckey]

It took me until the 3rd 5F2A build to realize DOUG wanted us to populate the turret board before it is placed

Doug puts jumpers on the board and installs the naked board in the chassis. Then he installs the wires and finally loads the components on the board. I prefer to fully load the board including interconnecting wires before I mount it in the chassis. Either way, it's definitely easier to put the wires on the board BEFORE loading the components.

[Bangy]

Ah ha ok So I did follow his recommendation initially.  I suppose we all eventually find our method that works best.  For me its wires on the turret board, then components, then install the board.  This way its easier to solder from multiple angles or sides. Anywho Sluckey I really like the the holes in the chassis for your wires, I will do that on my Bassman builds. I know Doug doesn't like to do both holes and turrets but I can very easily drill the holes for the wires myself.

A couple more planning questions, bearing in mind I really like using pushback wire.

1). I have 18g solid push back wire for filaments. And 22g solid or 20 gauge stranded for the rest of the circuit.  Any issues building a 5F6-A with using the solid 22g wire?

2). The idea presented by HBP is starting to make a lot of sense to me. Wiring 1 1/4 inch jack for my speakers wired externally in series and using the other three speaker holes for my mod switches. Any issues with running NFB and cathode wires so close to the speaker jacks?

3). 2 of the mods, Gain boost and lead channel call for a .o68 cap which I am unfamiliar with.  I do have a couple of these sprague with said value and wondering if you have any idea if they are adequate. RobRob said they do not need to be an electrolytic.

Back to my hand drawn Layout--great fun really. I tried to download the free DIYLC and got a MAlware alert. But the hand drawn is super educational. All good

[sluckey]

1). Filaments... I'd use the 20awg between the big tubes and 22awg for all the little tubes. Only issue is don't nick the solid conductor! Not a problem if you have real push back insulation.

2). No problem putting the NFB switch next to the speaker jack since it will connect to the speaker jack. But I would not put any switches for the preamp mods next to the speaker jacks.

3). Those caps are .68µF not .o68µF. That's a common value found in a lot of Marshall amps. Hoffman sells a couple different brands.

[Bangy]

I feel like I am stealing from you Sluckey. Your expertise is unparalleled. Many thanks again and again and again.

. . . . 

[sluckey]

You're not stealing anything from me. And my expertise is certainly not unparalleled. I'm just a hobbyist like a lot of folks on this forum. Take anything I say with a grain of salt. Challenge it. Research it. Agree or disagree. But keep on building! I love this stuff and hope you do too. That's the common bond that makes this forum work.

[Bangy]

Well said. . .

In the end the best teacher is experience that comes from doing. And luckily I have the will to try. . . This forum makes it much much easier to to survive when you are in over your head with the Hoffman forum life vest just a click away. . .

[sluckey]

In the end the best teacher is experience that comes from doing.

And there is a ton of experience here. Not just electronics, but cabinet building, guitar building, band experience, etc., etc. And that experience is willingly shared here on this forum.

Keeps me coming back! 

[PRR]

> I tried to download the free DIYLC and got a MAlware alert.

I agree hand-draw is best.

But where did you try to get DIYLC ? It is listed at many-many sites, some of them pretty dubious.

I *think* the official site is
http://diy-fever.com/software/diylc/
The official download hosted at GitHub (well-known code source)
https://github.com/bancika/diy-layout-creator/releases

FWIW: initial announcement (10 years ago!) seems to be-
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=44838.0
-but some links in that 192-page thread may be obsolete.

[Bangy]

PPR, That is the site I tried and recommended by Dunner-- For some reason my Avast software did the Will Robinson Danger Danger di not proceed, so I abandoned the idea and went to pencil and paper, at least for now.  I may advance later but Id rather learn about amps than software at the moment.

Hey Sluckey I rechecked that Sprague Cap I posted and it is actually a .068 MFD, isn't that the value I need for the Gain boost and Lead voice mod???? Or is uf and MFD dif?  I am still struggling with keeping all those straight.

Anywho.

Bangy

[robrob]

"Hey Sluckey I rechecked that Sprague Cap I posted and it is actually a .068 MFD, isn't that the value I need for the Gain boost and Lead voice mod????"

No, both need a .68uF but they do not have to be electrolytics.

[Bangy]

Ah. Ok now I understand what's Sluckey was saying.  I need .68 not .068.  Thanks RR..

I know this is a can of worms but I am trying to use mustards for the Lead channel so if anyone has some for sale--Please let me know. If I cant source the originals I will most likely try the yellow sozo .68 at 160V.