Getting ready to Tolex my Head Cab, been a long time!

[Platefire]

Just ordered the black tolex for my Marshall Plexi Variant head cab. It's been several years since I installed any. Trying to remember. I know the hardest part is the corners. I got some metal corner covers to install if I mess them up but I hope to make them pretty so they can be displayed. I have used contact glue and even wood glue successfully. I know that they make some expensive water base glue that is the rage today, but I don't want to spend that kind of money just for this small job.
So here is a pix before I routed it. I did route the sharp corners off yesterday. Trying to get it prepped and ready for installation. Platefire 

[Ed_Chambley]

Wow is this going to be your new P&W amp?  You must attend a large church.


I do like the cutout.

[Platefire]

Hello Ed, Thanks! Your the first one who said they liked it(cut out). I got some Oxblood grill cloth to go behind it but I would really like to find some white illuminating electrical powered fabric to go behind it if there is such a thing. That would really stand out against the black tolex---like light penetrating the Darkness! Have it switchable and maybe dim-able also. I've been looking but haven't found anything suitable. If not the oxblood grill cloth is the backup will have to do.

Yelp you got it right, will definitely be using it with the P & W band. I start my Telecaster season in March, and hope to have it done by then. With the master volume and some good compressors, I can get some good response/tone at low volumes. Will be running it though my Mesa Boogie 4-10 cab. Platefire

[Platefire]

Trying to decide rather I need to seal the wood with anything
Before installing the tolex. Planning on regular Welwood Contact
Cement. As I recall used 50/50 denatured Alcohol and shelak to seal
A cab for real Tweed.


Any experienced regular tolex installers out there with a word on this?
Platefire

[jjasilli]

I suggest you follow the instructions for the adhesive you plan to use.  Different adhesives have different chemical properties, so it's best to follow the manufacture's advice. It can't hurt to "size" bare wood -- 1st apply a thin coat to the wood and let it dry.  The reason is that adhesives need to be sufficiently "wet" to work right.  Adhesive applied to bare wood may may get soaked-up by the wood. Then there's not enough wet adhesive to form a bond with the Tolex.  A sizing coat corrects that issue.


I didn't know there was such a thing as glowing fabric!  Another alternative is. . . wait for it. . . Plexi, with a light behind it. 


Given the curves of the cutout it may be a minor challenge to get the Tolex to lay flat in the curves and on the rear of the face board. A heat gun & proper slits in the Tolex can help.  OTOH it's possible to cut the Tolex to the shape of the cut-out design at the front of the face board.  But that leaves the inside of the design uncovered & exposed; and if not wrapped around to the rear face, the Tolex may lift over time.

[Ed_Chambley]

Trying to decide rather I need to seal the wood with anything
Before installing the tolex. Planning on regular Welwood Contact
Cement. As I recall used 50/50 denatured Alcohol and shelak to seal
A cab for real Tweed.


Any experienced regular tolex installers out there with a word on this?
Platefire

I do a lot of tolex.  I will explain how I do it.  I use DAP contact cement and as was said, I coat the bare wood and let it dry.  I do this in-front of a window in my shop with a fan drawing the fumes outside.  The stuff will linger for a few days if I don't and it will give me a headache.

Then I wrap the tolex with no glue and mark it where I want an overlap seam.  Around a head box I do a single seam with a 1/2 overlap.  I mark where I plan to begin with a square and pencil on the headbox.  If I am planning to use corner covers, I put the seam to the left bottom edge for no particular reason other than when I install rubber feet they cover the seam front and back and only leave a small area that could get pulled open. I cut the tolex width 4" wider than the head giving me about 1-1/2" to glue inside.   Starting at the bottom and all the way around bringing the seam over last making the seams slit.

I have a large table I work on so I can lay the tolex.  Applying contact cement will cause the tolex to stretch when applied, so do not cut your corners until last.  Just before I am ready to apply the initial wrap I apply a liberal amount of DAP to the tolex and fire up my heat gun.  Careful as the stuff is flamable so my heat gun is on low.  I align the edge with the pencil mark and put 4 or 5 staples to hold it.  I heat the tolex some while wrapping and I do this quickly to get around.  Then I simply keep heating and pulling until I see the corners begin to make an impression.  I will end up with an overlap of about 3/4" as the tolex will stretch.  I also remove the staples so the overlapping tolex glues well.

Then using a rag full of ice, I wipe the tolex cooling it, place weights on the seam and then I leave it alone to dry.  Usually till the next day.  When it drys it will be tight.

Corners, if round-over square and not a slanted fender face, I only make one slit at each corner and it is aligned with the inside of the sides.  I glue the sides in first  and they will wrinkle some in the corner, but if you heat them a little you can work all of them out.  This is where the time is spent.

Once I make it here all that is left is to glue the top and bottom in.  To get a nice finish, I use a small block of wood to work around the edges pulling the tolex to the inside.

If you plan to tolex the front with the cutout you can simply pencil your cutout on the back of the tolex.  Use an exact knife and lightly cut the outline and remove the cloth backer being careful to only fut the cloth.  If you have never done this, practice a couple of times on scrap.  It is very easy to glue intricate cutouts if the tolex fabric is removed.  It also helps to paint the board the same color around the tolex if you have matching paint in case you mess up and have a small gap, but you shouldn't if you cut allowing you depth thickness.  As you pull the tolex to the inside simply cut points as you work around.

You could use white LED's around the inside of the cutout countersinking them to keep the back surface flat and install a mirror over the LED's and behind the cutout.  This makes a dramatic glow looking like it is beaming out in every direction.

Anyway, there are easier methods, but I have found this to work best for me.  I end up with it looking like it was Vacuum applied.

I have a good friend who does custom automobile interior who showed me how to do this.  This is also another great way and how I used to do it.  I dropped it off to him and picked it up in a few days.

[Platefire]

jjasilli and EdThanks for chiming in. I guess what ever type sealer the glue instructions recommend for bare wood would be what to use to seal it. So I will plan to seal it so the bare wood won't soak up all the glue like a sponge.

When I was talking about the illuminated fabric, I was just thinking with all the new technology that something like that might be available. So installing some kind of light behind the image is something I can do latter on. The main thing is getting the tolex installed properly now.
I have has some type of experience installing tolex in a cut out previously like on my DIY champ as on attached picture. I ended up splicing extra pieces of tolex into cutouts so full depth of the cutout would be covered. I was thinking about doing the same thing on this. That was my first cab build back in 2001, so it's kind of flaky. I do have a tolex cut out plan for the cut out as per attached scan. This cut out because of the extra detail, will have to be a lot more precise. I will just have to slow down, take my time and do it right. I've got some exacto knives and also a sheet rock knife with a good sharp blade works pretty good.

I never have used a heat gun but once I place a glued piece of tolex to the already glued wood, I stay with it and continue to work out any bubbles out until the glue is set on each separate piece. So for this head cab it would be two side pieces and one piece to go over top and bottom. What I've done in the past is with a pencil draw the cut out plan on the white cloth like fabric backing and cut it out by that. That way I have each flap and seam marked in advance. I can place it before gluing on the cab to make sure it fits right. Also mark a seam location on cab in light pencil to help me line up the pieces when placing them. With contact cement, you have to get the placement right the first time.

I do get very nervous when I do this because it's not something I do every day. That's why I appreciate you sharing your suggestions and methods to get me up to speed. I've been filling in irregularities with wood filler, sanding and think it's prepped. Platefire

[jjasilli]

Looks like you've got experience with intricate shapes. A heat gun can be used to help form the Tolex to the shape.  It can also be used to gently stretch a sheet of Tolex as it's being applied.  As it cools it re-shrinks and really hugs the wood, and won't get loose & sloppy over time.  BUT, the stretch must be gentle and not become a "pull".  Then the Tolex is ruined. 

[Platefire]

Thanks for all the advice. Getting close to doing the installation. Got a fresh can of contact cement.
Will plan to put sealer coat and let it pretty much dry before installing the final attachment coat.
I've got some cheap wal marts vinyl material I've done a little practicing on. I found this you tube video(link attached) that has a good example of doing the corner cuts that I will follow for this. The video is a good general practice for tolex installation---so anybody trying it for the first time, this would be good. Platefire
http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=Intalling+Tolex+on+Corners&view=detail&mid=1C70ED5D42FBC45E4A281C70ED5D42FBC45E4A28&FORM=VIRE