Pro-Amp_5E5_reverb/5E5_Pro_amp__w_reverb

[frankenxtein]

This fits the iron I have. Getting it all in a head should be interesting. I was looking at Mesa Boogie and the way they fit the tank in there. I don't want a big cabinet.

Pro-Amp_5E5_reverb , 5E5_Pro_amp__w_reverb

http://el34world.com/charts/SchFiles/Pro-Amp_5E5.sch 

http://el34world.com/charts/SchFiles/5E5_Pro_amp__w_reverb_layout.sch

[kagliostro]

Ciao Frankenxtein

I didn't remember how Mesa do it

here is how VOX did it



Franco

[frankenxtein]

That's a nice shape I'll have to look at those too. Nice idea with the tubes in those like 2 chassis at right angles. Upright power tubes and rectifier ..... I like that. I've got some Chinese 6l6gcr's and a power supply that matches the schematic , the OT with a 4 ohm load would fall right in there.

[frankenxtein]

PT: Stromberg Carlson part #161776 Essex
(350-0-350v on the schematic for the SR405)
primary: 117 volt 50/60hz
secondaries:
684VCT 142mA
5 volt 3 amp
6.3 volt 3.3 amp
6.3 volt 2.5 amp
about 7.5 lbs

OT part #161230 It's very clean
35:1 ratio
9800 ohm @8ohms
about 3+ lbs
I've got a little Fender  reverb transformer already
 I'm thinking about evicting the head out of a Behringer GMX212 I have here. Put it in the attic , Build a stretched out chassis to fit that cabinet and put a long tank in the bottom. Leave the Behringer Labels on it ..... Nobody would steal it  The speakers could be connected parallel to make a 4ohm load , depending on the voltage I end up with. The Transformers fit the ones listed on the layout , Schematic.

I've just about talked myself into it. I'll hire an Oaf to carry it for me 

[kagliostro]

If you are interested I've some documentation about AC50 (restoring or cloning)

http://www.voxshowroom.com/uk/amp/ac50tr_hood.html

http://www.voxshowroom.com/uk/amp/ac50dr_hood.html



Franco

[frankenxtein]

     I really like the compact design of those Vox amps. The controls on the top would make it nice as a combo. I have a 20+ lb PR40 Power supply that I'll probably build a el34 amp with. I have a 11+ lb 200mA Thordarson PT that would make one of these AC50's. Having to build to fit the iron instead of the tube makes for a challenge. I'm having fun 

I really don't have a use for this Pro 5e3 , just building it because I got the parts cheap. I might use it myself , because it will have a spring reverb. The only effect I ever cared for really. I've got a talk box that will shatter real teeth lol. I like passive hot humbuckers and now these tube amps. I don't like to run anything in between them , except a cord .... that's just me.
                 Just not going out to play much anymore .... the tiny amps I've built so far have me like , a kid with a pocket full of lollypops here , at home. As far as having a mic'd recording amp that little PP Deluxe Micro is like a Swiss Army Knife. Best distortion box I could want. It all started just wanting a small tube amp to capture "that sound" Now that sound has many flavors. Running out of shelving to store these things. Need to fix my table saw soon  or get a friend to knock together some boxes .....       
     

[frankenxtein]

 I'm thinking about evicting the head out of a Behringer GMX212 I have here. Put it in the attic , Build a stretched out chassis to fit that cabinet and put a long tank in the bottom. Leave the Behringer Labels on it ..... Nobody would steal it  The speakers could be connected parallel to make a 4ohm load , depending on the voltage I end up with. The Transformers fit the ones listed on the layout , Schematic.

I've just about talked myself into it. I'll hire an Oaf to carry it for me 

Nope maybe not the best idea , a 8 ohm load is going to leave more current with the 6l6's and the PT. No use to stressing that PT just to fit it in a cabinet.

I have .....  shoehorned a 6l6gc in that SE and think I'm running it too hot. See that thread .... So maybe a FenderVox would be nice compact. Unusual

I haven't bent any steel yet. Is there some benefit to having the preamp in a separate chassis or , away from the reverb tank? Maybe just having the controls on top? Keeping the hot tubes vertical and upright. Compactness .... Small is cute but heck to solder together.
 I have to study this reverb tank placement thing a bit before I build myself into a corner. Don't want to get exotic. I've got everything from upside down to right side up to vertical and on end lol. Got to look at some pictures. The Behringer is safe for now. That is until I can build a couple single 112 cabinets for those speakers in it.  I can say one thing for that amp it's loud and it's never shut down even when the punk rockers were trying to make their ears bleed.   

[frankenxtein]

Getting things together ....  I'm wondering whether to put a (125C1A) choke in this?

The first two filter caps kind of have me puzzled. Wouldn't that be 16+16= 32uf the way they are shown? Would a choke replace those 2 first caps?
 
I was going to use a 5u4 rectifier I have two of them just laying around.

Also would 22uf caps be okay for the other 16uf caps?

16+16= 32uf  is that what they were going for and just had a mess of 16uf caps?

Trying to figure out Power supply designer program ..... 

[tubenit]

You will need a 500p - .001 range cap into the dwell resistor for the reverb.  You might consider using a 1M reverb pot? 

with respect, Tubenit

[tubenit]

The Gibson Scout and the Carolina Blues Special had the reverb insertion around the volume pot and that works.  You will also find the reverb changes as the volume pot is adjusted. 

IF you would like to try it another way, you could consider this approach with a 150k mixing resistor.  The 1M reverb pot and 330k resistor help with the issue of "mixing" also.   Not necessarily better but just another approach to consider.

with respect, Tubenit

[Ed_Chambley]

Getting things together ....  I'm wondering whether to put a (125C1A) choke in this?

The first two filter caps kind of have me puzzled. Wouldn't that be 16+16= 32uf the way they are shown? Would a choke replace those 2 first caps?
 
I was going to use a 5u4 rectifier I have two of them just laying around.

Also would 22uf caps be okay for the other 16uf caps?

16+16= 32uf  is that what they were going for and just had a mess of 16uf caps?

Trying to figure out Power supply designer program ..... 

Your choke replaces the 1k resistor. No, the caps are still 16uf, just another for filtration.

[stratavox]

5E5 Pro was my first build- I wanted something basic, build- wise, but loud enough to gig with. I really like the addition of the reverb- I did mine in a Pro- sized cab, but used a 12" rather than a 15". YMMV, but it's still prolly my favorite....

[frankenxtein]

If I don't have to have a choke in this? Having a choke out on the far end on the last valve wouldn't be doing what I was going for. 
They have the caps the first two , with the B+ coming out between them. Is that a thing or what? The fact they used 16uf cap$ makes me want to look for another solution. I haven't figured out that PS designer yet so those voltage numbers are not mine. The PT I have has the same specs as the one listed on the original drawing.
Just thinking .... well lol. That JJ can cap was a thought.

The reverb mods made on the sch  The intensity control would be Linear? Thanks Tubenit

PS: Just found some MIEC 16uf 500v 9pcs for $25.65 so ...............

[sluckey]

They have the caps the first two , with the B+ coming out between them. Is that a thing or what?

They who? What are you talking about? Which drawing are you referring to?

[BetterOffShred]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5pc-450V-16uf-105C-New-long-copper-leads-Axial-Electrolytic-Capacitors-audio-amp-/160978294575?hash=item257b0dd72f:g:faYAAOxyrrpTgG0y
$8 for 5, not too shabby.

-Brett

[frankenxtein]

Your choke replaces the 1k resistor. No, the caps are still 16uf, just another for filtration.

I really appreciate input  I'm sorry I didn't get the 1k resistor you referenced to in the other drawing with the choke. I should have looked at what I posted. I'm very much a novice at this. To be honest some of it , is paint by number for me. I do enjoy learning why everything does what it does.

       My main question is the way they have those first two caps. Basically parallel either side of B+? 32uf cap is what it is. Just the way it is drawn.

Reading a discussion that touches on the matter. http://www.tdpri.com/threads/less-filtering-in-the-power-supply-any-advantages.202965/ 

I get away with using cheap caps on these little amps , but these higher voltage PT's have me wanting to use spec parts and not play around with that power surge I get at startup stressing everything.So there's where I was thinking ..... Does a choke help with that or compound it? And now I'm looking at the standby switch   When I start asking and answering my own questions with a bit of study 

[frankenxtein]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5pc-450V-16uf-105C-New-long-copper-leads-Axial-Electrolytic-Capacitors-audio-amp-/160978294575?hash=item257b0dd72f:g:faYAAOxyrrpTgG0y
$8 for 5, not too shabby.

-Brett

I have plenty of 450v Radials I got from China 10uf 22uf I put em in my little amps. On a small 3 terminal tag strip they seem to work good in my halfassed point to point. One screw and it's next to the valve if you want. Going with the can cap would be a a bit more and I can have it tomorrow or the next day. Since I'm unconventional (no board) it fit's right in.

I really need to build me a breadboard to prototype these things ... then I could lose a few tag strips. Until then it's easy to substitute components when I build the way I do. With this one I wanted to over spec these caps voltage. Then I notice the standby switch , will wonders ever cease. All I need is a switch 

Now I'm thinking why not use my Radials on tag strips to do this one? The history of these Fender designs changed over the years starting off with smaller caps and increasing as they became less expensive. 
          I have a couple more PT's that I could build this same amp with , their voltages are a bit higher and could handle a bit bigger tubes. This is my first venture into PP amps and yeah I'm building it because ...... I need another amp  
 

[frankenxtein]

They have the caps the first two , with the B+ coming out between them. Is that a thing or what?

They who? What are you talking about? Which drawing are you referring to?

Whoever drew the Pro-Amp_5E5_reverb/5E5_Pro_amp__w_reverb.  There's no name on it?
I was looking for a design to use this iron listed in the thread here.

My hacked sch Pro-Amp_5E5_reverbm1 most current.

It looks like I've arrived too late on the good ole standby switch http://el34world.com/Forum/index.php?topic=16773.0

Well I might as well put this thing on the back burner till I figure it out

[frankenxtein]

Nah .... I'll go with good caps and leave out the switch.   The PT I'm using here had a 30uf-30uf 500v can for the first caps on it. Back in 1954 . That radio must have been pretty heavy.  http://fenderguru.com/amps/pro-reverb/

[frankenxtein]

Working out the chassis/layout 13.375" x 7.375" 2" tall
My template actual size just for laughs. All tubes up front , upright.
That 5U4GB has .75" clearance from the PT

Figuring to go with the JJ TC549 (40-22-22-22uf/500v) (40-20-20-20uf/500v) Anyone see a problem with that , other than it may be a bit stiff? Tolerance ... It was made for this amp

Using a Accutronics 8AB2A1B reverb tank (small tank) under the chassis so , the head will be a little  tall. About 10" overall. From the bottom of the chassis to the top interior measurement 7" to hold the taller 6L6GC. The 6L6GCR is shorter (same height as 5U4GB) That tank has to go underneath in a slot. Put some feet and a handle on it and it gets taller ..... who cares 

[kagliostro]

Ciao

Working out the chassis/layout 13.375" x 7.375" 2" tall

I must ask, very often I see measures like your's around and I find it a bit odd 

Which is the reason for a 13.375" and a 7.375" instead 13.5" and 7.5" 

Please, can you explain why you use those fractions of the inch ?

THANKS

Franco

[frankenxtein]

Ciao Phil

Working out the chassis/layout 13.375" x 7.375" 2" tall

I must ask, very often I see measures like your's around and I find it a bit odd 

Which is the reason for a 13.375" and a 7.375" instead 13.5" and 7.5" 

Please, can you explain why you use those fractions of the inch ?

THANKS

Franco

That's the size you come up with the full piece of steel 12"x18" untrimmed

          I just cut the corners , put that first 1/2" brake , then the 2" sides. Depending on how tight the brakes can change the size too. Press breaks make steel grow but , I use a couple pieces of angle iron bolted together to bend/form it.
       These are hand mangled , one of a kind chassis. Made from the finest 26ga galvanized Chinese Steel that money can buy. cough $5 4 screws and nuts. Now offered in a fine colorful finish .......... Black
    I didn't expect that last one to come out so stiff but , it did.  This one will be neater New and improved. We have a Knockout Tool and 4 different colors of permanent marker.     

[kagliostro]

Ah, OK, now I understand

Franco

[drew]

^ .375 is also the decimal form of 3/8, which is one of the common fractions of an inch that we metric system deniers use in designing things.

[frankenxtein]

^ .375 is also the decimal form of 3/8, which is one of the common fractions of an inch that we metric system deniers use in designing things.

normally I'd round that one way or the other .38 would work for this because it's got to go in a box. Details details ......

The preamp is different than I'm used to , interesting
Once I buy the parts someone will jump up and say ..... that wont work.
       A little tougher than putting a list together for a SE. I've changed the reverb as suggested by Tubenit , changed the filter caps to a can.
       The rest of it I'm trying to get close as I can I don't know enough to sub out some of these things .... I don't own a single 56K resistor let alone a 150k resistor lol. 
         I got a couple matching 220k resistors .... pictured hooked up to the hardest working gadget in the house. A little bit much eh?
          I have most of the coupling caps.
The layout on this , is slightly different than the schematic and , I haven't touched the layout drawing.

[frankenxtein]

Thought to update the schematic to reflect the correct values on the JJ TC549 can cap. To see the .sch files or manipulate them here's a link to that software. https://www.expresspcb.com/expresssch/

[PRR]

> Which is the reason for a 13.375"

We can only count to 8. So our measuring rulers work that way.



Although we can only count to 8, we "know" that 0.375 is 3/8. Simplicity via complexity.

[kagliostro]

Thanks PRR

this explains well the reason

Franco

[frankenxtein]

Just replaced the battery in my caliper so now I can give metric sizes to some of this iron seems I don't have a metric tape measure yet. That caliper is handy for getting guitar parts from China. 
         Speaking of parts , should be here tomorrow or Monday. The 6l6 bypass cap has been changed to Xicon 22uf/50v .75 cents rather than pay $3 for for a 25uf/50v Sprague. It probably is negligible difference , but the 10uf and the .68uf caps I ordered from a speedy guy in California , I've dealt with before. He's only got radial and those work fine with point to point. A little shrink wrap and they're Axial  
            Not sure about going too over voltage (5 or 6 times over) with  these little bypass E caps , got  10uf/25v which should be right and the best I can do on the .68uf is 50v. Still paint by number somewhat here. Knowing exactly what effect a certain value has on something is a on the job learning affair. It's nice when all the numbers (voltages) are just what they are supposed to be and the thing sounds good. Matching components  with the cheap ESR meter is well worth the $10 I paid for that thing ..... it only took a month to get here.   
       I liked that 10uf & 25uf bypass on (V1A) on-off-on switch in my last amp. Did that with a SE 6BQ5 amp too. I really prefer the off position but that 10uf gives just a little more boost unlike the full on 25uf.     

[frankenxtein]

Got two chassis built ...... These are a bit nicer than my first 

Waiting on the tube sockets to start punching holes. Couple pictures of what I used to brake and bend.

Got 7.5" deep but we're still 13.375" wide

[frankenxtein]

A little closer , now to plot out where the tag strips will go. The small knockout tool I have sucks. Would be better to just use the step bit on those. The next size up was just right for the octal sockets.  The largest knockout  is just right for the cap can. Having a blast but , that's enough for today. 

[kagliostro]

Nice Chassis 


Franco

[Ed_Chambley]

Nice work. I like metal fab. Been doing metal for most of my life. I just started doing dovetail for cabinets and now I dont know if I perfer finger joint or dovetail. No matter I believe each has a place.


If you have a welder, making a mini auto front for a chassis would really cool for a vinatge build, but then again so is tweed. I look forward to ypur work. You seem to have a good eye.

[frankenxtein]

Thanks for the encouragement friends.
20 years ago I worked in sheet metal (Amada punch press, some nice press brakes) Our shop worked with the 16ga and below. Heavier stuff was done in a shop next door although , the with the Amada I punched a lot of their 1/8" steel. Was never a "layout man" but was a sheet metal mechanic

 I like working with wood also but don't have tools to do much more than butt joint stuff. I really need some cabinets .......

I usually start with the power section but , figured to do the hard part first this time. The heaters will be run last up above
Got the preamp and reverb circuit done for this ..... probably should have gone with a small board for that but , I imagine it'll work lol.

I wasn't seeing the extra bypass on V1 until I'd already started. I was just counting parts not paying attention.  Too much all crammed in the corner.

  My first adventure with Reverb ...... having fun     

Got that switched bypass wrong fixing it now Went with the radial version of that same cap .... got plenty of those Chenxing caps. 

[frankenxtein]

Amp #7
Up and running , right from the flip of the switch

115vac (bucking transformer)

A) 396vdc
B) 365"  "
C) 296"  "
D) 294"  "

Plate      360vdc
Screen   333vdc
Cathode 30.26vdc
Resistor  250ohm
30.26 divided by 250 = .12x360=43.2

Have a bit of hum on reverb , need a shielded wire on the return I'd imagine. It's not something I'm gonna lose sleep over.

The bypass switch has a really noisy pop. Got to get rid of that!

I plan on making a cover for the bottom of the chassis so that reverb tank should live well under this thing. It's a success imho ....... the lucky fuse strikes again. Thank you to everyone that helped.

[Ed_Chambley]

Just thought i would mention Chinese caps are often repackaged old caps. True! They use child labor. You will not normally see rhis on the little inexpensive caps, but larger ones it is common.


I did not post this to debate economics and really not interested in trade relations with China. Just passing along information that caused a Samsung recall.


Simply saying if you cannot test caps, the savings may not be worth the cost.

[frankenxtein]

Just thought i would mention Chinese caps are often repackaged old caps. True! They use child labor. You will not normally see rhis on the little inexpensive caps, but larger ones it is common.


I did not post this to debate economics and really not interested in trade relations with China. Just passing along information that caused a Samsung recall.


Simply saying if you cannot test caps, the savings may not be worth the cost.

 
The locally available small caps voltages mostly were too high .... I don't have the experience to know where a higher voltage could cause a safety concern? Sacrificial parts?
 
 Thanks for the heads up on that. It reminds me of Homer Simpsons Power Bars .... (Apple cores and shredded Chinese newspapers) I have Dell computers?
Hard to escape the Chinese
I'm using a Chinese ESR to check caps?, match resistors too ....  lol
        The rectifier tube , PT , OT , wire? are the only US made parts in it , all the rest is imported including the not so shiny solder . Assembled in Memphis Tennessee by a plumber. 
       I've often thought if someone wanted to buy one of these amps , they might want .... more boutique parts. This cheap amp cost me a little over $200 without a cabinet. It's for my personal use , I could have went a bit cheaper but .... where?
     
Everything I've built , till this amp has been a modified version of what the schematic was ....

I tried to stay close to the specs for this one sans the standby switch , Filter Cap(s) and the change in the reverb circuit (+1 tubenit)  It's a neat sounding amp. The reverb is a little more than my H&K Attax 80 not surf , just right for my taste. Anyone considering making one of these .... it didn't catch fire.

I have a couple questions :
Having a separate 6.3v winding on the  9pin tubes , was it necessary to keep those in phase?
Small Bypass cap voltage ratings ....what's too high 25v vs 150v?   
 

[BetterOffShred]

I have that same little tester, the Mega328 or whatever, except yours looks like a T4, mine's a T3    I love that thing.  It seems pretty accurate from what I can tell compared to my fluke meter.  Not sure about the capacitance testing, but it comes up with ballpark figures that match what the part says usually!

Love the power bars Simpsons too, that episode is pretty amazing, when he rides the frozen carcass down the murderhorn or whatever it's called!

I'm not an expert, but I think aside from size in electrolytic caps, there's really no such thing as too high of a voltage rating.  I got a bunch of 10uf's that are 160 volt, and they don't sound any different to me than 22uf 50V's or 25uf 25Vs.. just saying.  (At bypass locations)
-Brett

[frankenxtein]

I have that same little tester, the Mega328 or whatever, except yours looks like a T4, mine's a T3    I love that thing.  It seems pretty accurate from what I can tell compared to my fluke meter.  Not sure about the capacitance testing, but it comes up with ballpark figures that match what the part says usually!

Love the power bars Simpsons too, that episode is pretty amazing, when he rides the frozen carcass down the murderhorn or whatever it's called!

I'm not an expert, but I think aside from size in electrolytic caps, there's really no such thing as too high of a voltage rating.  I got a bunch of 10uf's that are 160 volt, and they don't sound any different to me than 22uf 50V's or 25uf 25Vs.. just saying.  (At bypass locations)
-Brett

That tester see's every part , much faster to use with the hooky do's , press the button. You don't need to turn it off. It's not much on installed parts.

Here's a discussion about the bypass caps?  http://www.tdpri.com/threads/cathode-bypass-capacitor-voltage.282138/

My thought is of the part not failing (when it should?) if a higher voltage managed to get there? Probably not an issue.

50volts is enough for the power tubes in this. The pigtailed switch on this will have to be replaced , so as to fix the popping. I'll use one with terminals to add a resistor.
Gonna try and fix my table saw build some boxes for these things ...... 

Ride the Murderhorn ..... 

[BetterOffShred]

Yeah I've seen that discussion over there before, it's kind of your classic good question, bad information, flame, flame, then good information, then no conclusion discussion.   I personally cannot hear a difference in the caps I tried on the input stage cathode of my Bassman, and I tried 4 or 5.  That being said, Maybe I'll use a 6v rated one and see how it goes, all the old schematics for that stage show +2V or less on the cathodes.  This is another thing that I think boils down to what they had available for what cost that would do the job back in the day.
-Brett

[frankenxtein]

That sounds about right , using what was on hand.
No projection of when the higher voltage caps would fail is stated in any discussion. Point to point those little radials really fit well.

Double pole light switch and the Ryobi table saw is up and running again. So there I was at Home Depot getting that switch and walked out without getting any wood lol.   
The switch on that saw is really crappy so the double pole switch should be better than what it had (only lasted 5 years) So now I'll be building some Chip & Dale Cabinets 

[kagliostro]

I've an electric grill that originally mounted this kind of switch



every 6-8 months I was forced to change the switch because melted

So I decided to mount an old sturdy toggle switch that I recovered from a military apparatus

something like this



and I finally solved the problem 

Franco

[BetterOffShred]

So I decided to mount an old sturdy toggle switch that I recovered from a military apparatus
something like this

and I finally solved the problem 

I salvaged a bunch of these out of some old test equipment when I worked at the Diesel shop, and yeah, they are totally bomb proof.  Probably literally.  Whenever I have to replace a switch that goes bad more than once, I shoehorn those in there for sure!

What kind of wood you going to use on the amp Frank?   I would be curious to see your process, I'm going to be building a cabinet pretty soon so I need to pay attention!   I was thinking to use pine, the cheapest and straightest I could find in fashion with old Fenders.   
-Brett

[frankenxtein]

I was about to use one of a couple Carling switches I got for amp building.  The Ryobi table saw has less than 48hrs on it , over those 5 years. The contacts went bad on one side of it .... sealed switch too  It's a nice little saw with the folding legs , spreads out really well to get a 2 foot rip on a piece of plywood. I thought it would be more than a switch so , lucky just a switch.

Not sure what design I'll go with , waiting for arthritis to ease up a bit. Simple butt-jointed with a steel mesh front (from a wastebasket I picked up at the thrift store) I have three chassis the same size so I'll have three bases the same size. Got to keep the size down where possible , this last one is a real heater.  It will be cozy in the winter time .... the reverb tank is 1.25" tall. I'm guessing 12" tall 15"wide 10" deep for this one , 10" tall for the other two.  Then I got a few smaller amps to make cabinets for too. That wastebasket will be cut to pieces. Feeling better now so ..... where did I put that wood stretcher? 

[kagliostro]

My SE amp is on standby because of some other things to do at home

the idea is for an Head, not a Combo and the aspect will be something like here



the intention is to use phenolyc birchen plywood around 14mm thick

(or maybe other plywood, because I salvaged some reusable pieces from a shelf some time ago)

Franco

[frankenxtein]

Very nice layout I wish I had a big round over bit , I like that design.

I went with American BIG and GOOFY It's actually pretty light.
Have to set all these screws , lots of sanding , need to cut the back panel. When finished it will be 15" wide x 9.75" deep x 12" tall without feet. As noted in the picture the board that separates the amp from the reverb is screwed so the reverb can be screwed down to the bottom. The outer shell of the cabinet is screwed and glued .... scrap lumber picked up here and there. Need to add a bit more baking pan aluminum to the surfaces where the tubes are to keep from ruining my Chip&Dale finish .... from a thrift store. It looked uglier yesterday 

[kagliostro]

 

[frankenxtein]

Decided to make the front and back out of MDF instead of the pine both 1 piece , now it's Frankenxtein. Need some right angle RCA plugs , a bit of tweaking.

[kagliostro]

If I can suggest

Instead to use that piece of wood to stop on place the chassis, you can use the method of my friend

he uses a drill bit of the bolt measure, then a bigger one to engrave the wood as to have space for the head of the bolt

and cover with tolex

here you can see







Franco

[frankenxtein]

It's temporary .....  Oh yeah that block is ugly ... really hard to turn those screws without a stubby screwdriver. The amp sits in between two L shaped pieces of wood (see #351) left of the reverb transformer , there's one in front of the power transformer on the other side also.
    The cabinet is oversized so , to take up the space in between the chassis and the cabinet I used the L shaped wood brackets.   

The back blocks left and right (vertical cleats) will be replaced with a little thicker notched piece. Take up that space and the back holds the chassis in place , like a drawer. The chassis is thin and would have to be reinforced to hold a nut/screw setup. With that fix there wont be a any screws into the chassis 

   Notice the fender washers on the input and output jacks. 26ga. steel alone is too flexible.  Lucky I have an empty chassis to fit these cabinets up.
        I've got to build one for the VoF amp and then another for that chassis itself.

Darn spring reverb is an expensive option and , I like it but , don't think I'll be doing another.
        I abused the amp for half an hour last night ... OT cold ... PT lukewarm , it's proximity to the rectifier tube is most of that. Textbook build , nothings red.  Will go back in and check voltages again when I change out the bypass switch , add the shielded wires where needed , dress the wires in the power section that , are playing that hit song everyone hates "60cycle hum"

        It's not as quiet as my Deluxe Micro. The hum is definitely in the power section it's real low frequency and , it's there without the power tubes and all controls at zero.
     Doesn't get any louder when it's cranked up. Could it be the HT and all my filament winding's having a party?