Needed: Strat Specialist Help.

[Cree]

Was given an Pre-routed Ash Strat body. It is two piece body but the seam is very hard to see, very good match on the grain line. . The rout is for 3 single coils, standard tummy cut. Copy of a '59 strat. I have picked out the Tremolo, I chose the narrow string Spacing  :help:model. Have my eyes on the Pickups I am thinking about using. Standard vintage wind and specs.  As this will be my first "real Strat". Just built a pawn shop parts caster to see if it was something I would want. And I am "HOOKED"  for a real Strat of a sorts. Now for the First of the $64,000 questions. Which neck type will give me that "Strat" sound? Maple/Maple or Maple/Rosewood? Combo-ed with the Ash body? Is there any difference in the Skunk stripe type of neck. Was wanting the Skunk stripe for the look of the whole instrument.  I like a larger neck profile than the typical new production Strat C type. More of a Gibson profile neck fan. Second question, Reverse wind Middle pickup or standard wind which will give the most authentic Strat sound?. Thanking any and all replies ahead of time for the input. Thank You. http://el34world.com/Forum/Smileys/default/help.gif

[rake]

Was given an Pre-routed Ash Strat body. It is two piece body but the seam is very hard to see, very good match on the grain line. . The rout is for 3 single coils, standard tummy cut. Copy of a '59 strat. I have picked out the Tremolo, I chose the narrow string Spacing  :help:model. Have my eyes on the Pickups I am thinking about using. Standard vintage wind and specs.  As this will be my first "real Strat". Just built a pawn shop parts caster to see if it was something I would want. And I am "HOOKED"  for a real Strat of a sorts. Now for the First of the $64,000 questions. Which neck type will give me that "Strat" sound? Maple/Maple or Maple/Rosewood? Combo-ed with the Ash body? Is there any difference in the Skunk stripe type of neck. Was wanting the Skunk stripe for the look of the whole instrument.  I like a larger neck profile than the typical new production Strat C type. More of a Gibson profile neck fan. Second question, Reverse wind Middle pickup or standard wind which will give the most authentic Strat sound?. Thanking any and all replies ahead of time for the input. Thank You. http://el34world.com/Forum/Smileys/default/help.gif

There are about as many opinions as there are strat players! 
For me, I always found the maple fretboards to sound a bit brighter than the rosewood boards. JMHO
I never noticed any differences with the skunk stripes. Other than they look cool!

If you dig the Clapton "woman tone" then the middle pickup out of phase is the ticket.
That said, a push/pull pot can give you both and still look "stock".

[G._Hoffman]

The pickups and the neck joint matter more than anything.  I like maple with either a rosewood board or something similar - actually, both of mine have Pau Ferro fingerboards, but it is very similar.  As for the rest, just make sure it is a good neck with good fret work.  USA Custom Guitars is the way to go.  Warmoth makes good stuff, but you WILL need to get the frets dressed these days - they don't finish their fret work anymore.

At the very least, go for a RW/RP middle pickup - there is no sound difference at all, and anyone who says otherwise doesn't know what they are talking about - and even better is to go with something hum cancelling.  I like the Seymour Duncan Classic Stack Plus, which are very similar in concept to Kinman's.  The Fender Noiseless are a lesser version of the same thing (in my opinion - the Fender's just don't get as close to the real thing - not as punchy, which is the whole point behind a Strat). 

Most strat bodies are two or three piece.  Nothing wrong with that, if the joint is done well.  I'm mostly an ash body fan, though.  Alder is fine, and a bit more traditional, but give me ash.  Again, I do love a Strat with a snappy attack!


Gabriel

[Ritchie200]

YES!  Another convert!   


As Rake said, the answer to all your questions?  Yes...!  Truly a player preference.  I played a maple neck for years but I REALLY like the rosewood.  Just something about the finish.  I played the 57 reissue a couple of years ago and I thought the neck was absolutely perfect.  I also like the 70's big headstock micro-tilt monstrosities!  So what so I know....  My absolute fave guitar ever is my 93 Ritchie Blackmore strat MIJ.  It is nothing like the POS newer MIM Blackmore strats.  It plays like a dream.  Only front and back pups with the middle a dummy.  Those were the only ones I used anyway so it made perfect sense.  I never messed with the 5 position switches, even though I had installed a 40th anniversary guard and pups in my old Strat copy.  I actually took it off and went back to the original no-names as they were hotter and had a wider range of tone. 


Long story short, I would go to a local music store and noodle around on several models.  See what you like and dislike and make some mental notes on what to order.  Good luck!  Welcome to the club!


Jim

[Cree]

G._Hoffman  Said "USA Custom Guitars is the way to go.  Warmoth makes good stuff, but you WILL need to get the frets dressed these days - they don't finish their fret work anymore."

I Was giving thought to a Warmoth neck due to what everybody says, that's the Co. to get a neck from.  I also looked at Bhefner.com, musikraft.com, and a local guy Aperioguitar.com. If I was a pro player, played in clubs or the like, that would be the guy I would get a neck from (Aperio).  Now, I am checking out the necks at USAguitars. Taking your advise, looking hard at them right now. Thank you guys for taking the time and giving advise. Now I've got to decide on the type of finish. I want the grain to show, the body I got will look good I think with a natural finish. I had a Kay guitar, some what a Strat like shape when I was in my early teens. It had a natural finish, medium dark amber. That's the look I'm shooting for.

[Ritchie200]

Kiesel Guitars (formerly Carvin Guitars) sells some replacement necks as well.  I had only heard good things about their products and bought a neck-through from them for my Lucite guitar project (not yet started).  The quality is excellent with lots of options.  USA made to order.  Frets are finished.  A little out of the ordinary for a Strat but their budget Strat replacement neck is maple with a ebony fret board.  I love ebony fret boards!  They have more mainstream Strat-type options too (rosewood, maple).  Maybe another option for you?

Jim

https://www.kieselguitars.com/necks/bolt_on_guitar_necks

[rake]

I recently used a Stew-Mac Mighty Mite neck on a tele build and was quite pleased with it.
It was only $120

[Ed_Chambley]

Well, I gotta say of all the Strat fans, Jimbob tops them all.


I finally found one that did not have issues and it is a new model.  The one with tall narrow frets and I played a Maple board and a Rosewood.  Bought the maple and I could not hear any real tonal difference.  The reason I got the Maple is the frets were dressed better.  I have immediately rewired it.  Still a stock pups, came with the V mod pups which are Modded Vintage basically give a more even tone, but I can silence them using copper shield and have. 


Had a stay in tune problem, so I dressed the nut, removed the string trees and replaced the stock tuners with staggered locking.  She no goes out of tune anymore.  Leaning heavily towards a Humbucker in the bridge.  Neck tone is exactly where it should be.  Position 5 I call it.  Position 4 is great and quacks as should.  I have found unless I am cranking the crap out of the neck, the pup sounds thin.  I have even installed a series cap and resistor to help the stock treble bleed.  Had a hump.  Member Jojokeo gave me his solution with actually makes the guitar brighter if you want and darker.  Sort of has the tone control centered for your normal playing and you can roll down and up.


Of course I cannot leave well enough alone, so I installed a couple of button switches like were on some Strats.  These will turn off and on any pup and if you push the first one only it goes straight out of the bridge.  That is why I am thinking humbucker.




It is Jimbob's fault.  He kept up the Blackmore stuff until I finally got one of these things.  Now I get it.  It really can be anything you want except a short scale 24.75.  It will never feel like a Gibson or sound like one, but I play both scales and even a 25".


Now I need to install some Keith tuners on both E strings and a B and G bender, but I do not think the whammy bar would agree.  Damn thing will twwwwwaaaaaannnngggg too.


This one is the C to D neck and is really nice.  It is here:
http://shop.fender.com/en-US/electric-guitars/stratocaster/american-professional-stratocaster/0113010709.html#start=1


I have the Sonic Gray.  I am still a dual Humbucker guy at heart, but I hear a tone from this guitar I have never gotten with any other.  There seems to be a open airy sound and feel in the highs.  Well, except the bridge.

[Willabe]

- actually, both of mine have Pau Ferro fingerboards, but it is very similar.

Why Pau Ferro? Very similar in feel or sound/tone or both? Snappy(er) attack? 

I'm mostly an ash body fan, though.  Alder is fine, and a bit more traditional, but give me ash.

Why ash? Snappy(er) attack? 

[Willabe]

I finally found one that did not have issues and it is a new model.

Cool! 

Had a stay in tune problem, so I dressed the nut, removed the string trees and replaced the stock tuners with staggered locking.  She no goes out of tune anymore.

Cool, who's staggered locking tuners?   

Leaning heavily towards a Humbucker in the bridge.

I am still a dual Humbucker guy at heart, but I hear a tone from this guitar I have never gotten with any other.  There seems to be a open airy sound and feel in the highs.  Well, except the bridge.

~Don't do it.~     

Won't sound like a strat anymore and you need that bridge/middle quack. 

EC, Rory, etc, use that position a LOT for a reason. Position #4, as you call it, is too muddy sometimes, you need position #2 also.

A lot of Strat players NEVER use the bridge PUP alone. I never have. If you HAVE to play on the bridge, if you haven't yet, try these 1st; 

 1. - Try a hotter bridge PUP

 2. - Or, use a clean boost 

 3. - Or, try both.   

 4. - AND,  rewire for a master tone control, to roll off the bridge PUP some, Rory did that too, early on.

Rory used an older tweed Bassman 5E6A (NOT 5F6A, concertina NOT LTPI, different TS and no mid) with a Rangemaster (he kept it taped on top of his amp, always on) and turned the Bassman up some. That's his Irish Tour sound. (But he used the Rangemaster with his other amps too.)
 
http://el34world.com/charts/Schematics/files/fender/Fender_bassman_5e6a_schem.pdf

And it won't sound like a Strat as much anymore using the buck. Strat's have a hollow sound, mid cut, bucks are too fat in the mid range and are more compressed. I've never been able to get used to EC's mid range db boost on his later stuff, just sounds muddy and too compressed to me. Bleck!       

It is Jimbob's fault.  He kept up the Blackmore stuff until I finally got one of these things.  Now I get it.    It will never feel like a Gibson or sound like one.......

Damn thing will twwwwwaaaaaannnngggg too.

Not spose to, you know the scale length is part of the sound. Same with my Falcon, longer scale length, part of the chime and attack. Sure it can twang, you got the maple fret board.   

Now I need to install some Keith tuners on both E strings and a B and G bender, but I do not think the whammy bar would agree.

There's a guy that makes single benders for a Strat vibrato bridge. He's on utube. I ran across him looking for Dobro/lap steel benders.

[Ed_Chambley]

Brad,
I used Fender brand staggered locking tuners, but they are just like Shaller and I believe made by them.


I was just screwing around with the Humbucker comment and I did play a rosewood and maple.  Really not much difference in tone.  I can make anything twang as it is nothing more than hand position.  I do have tone and volume for each pup, you just have to push a button.  No, I know the second positions importance.  That is where the bell lives.  Still prefer the neck tone.


What I do when I get a guitar is remove everything that came with it except what I want to use.  On this one I got a new pick guard and used only the pups.  The inside wiring and switching I do with the pups in place and everything else outside the guitar until I am happy with the results.  I wanted to be able to use the neck and bridge together since I always have used a Strat PUP in a Telecaster neck, I wanted to use this too.


I am happy with the guitar, very happy or I would not have gotten it.  I just cannot help messing with Jim.  Sorry I caught you!  Another Strat Guy.


Pau Ferro is the new fingerboard material used on Strats and quite a few other guitars.  It has a striped appearance, but is often stained solid for fingerboards.  It is normally a Brazilian species and much closer to Brazilian Rosewood structurally than is Indian Rosewood.  Tighter grain and harder to divot.  Like real old rosewood used to be.

[G._Hoffman]

- actually, both of mine have Pau Ferro fingerboards, but it is very similar.

Why Pau Ferro? Very similar in feel or sound/tone or both? Snappy(er) attack? 

Pretty much indistinguishable from rosewood from a player's point of view.  As a builder, I wouldn't want to deal with it because it is pretty splintery.

I'm mostly an ash body fan, though.  Alder is fine, and a bit more traditional, but give me ash.

Why ash? Snappy(er) attack?

Yup.  And to me, the best things about a Strat are ALL about the attack.  They don't sustain very well (until you start to hit the compression in your amp), they are kind of hollow sounding, and just odd.  But you can mess with all of that later in the chain.  But that attack!  Nothing else will do it right.


Gabriel

[Cree]

I'm thanking all for the comments, lots of good stuff here. Now next question. I am looking at the usacustomguitars.com necks. I have a Fender Duo-Sonic from my pre-teen years. It has the adjust at heel truss rod. I never adjusted it as far as I can remember, I have replaced the org. neck with one from a Strat copy.  All the guitars I have owned since are adjust at head stock. I have had to adjust them about every change of the season. Gets cold, needs adjustment, gets warm, needs adjustment. How often does a good neck need adjusting and how much hassle is it to pull the neck and adjust the thing at the heel. Is that a reason to move to a adjust at the head stock type of neck? How about a neck from Fender, they offer quite a few necks now for the Strat. Any thoughts.

[Willabe]

- actually, both of mine have Pau Ferro fingerboards, but it is very similar.

Why Pau Ferro? Very similar in feel or sound/tone or both? Snappy(er) attack? 

Pretty much indistinguishable from rosewood from a player's point of view.  As a builder, I wouldn't want to deal with it because it is pretty splintery.

I'm mostly an ash body fan, though.  Alder is fine, and a bit more traditional, but give me ash.

Why ash? Snappy(er) attack?

Yup.  And to me, the best things about a Strat are ALL about the attack.  They don't sustain very well (until you start to hit the compression in your amp), they are kind of hollow sounding, and just odd.  But you can mess with all of that later in the chain.  But that attack!  Nothing else will do it right.

Gabriel

Thanks Gabriel. 

[Willabe]

I have had to adjust them about every change of the season. Gets cold, needs adjustment, gets warm, needs adjustment. How often does a good neck need adjusting and how much hassle is it to pull the neck and adjust the thing at the heel. Is that a reason to move to a adjust at the head stock type of neck?

I lived in Chicago for many years and now live just NW, McHenry, Il, I have always needed to adjust the truss rod on any/all of my guitars twice a year.

Some say that the 'bullet' type of Strat necks, head stock adjust, weakens the neck at a vulnerable spot. But most guitar have their truss rod adjust pocket there. 

 It seems that most guys pull the neck off to adjust the truss rod on Strats, I never did, I always pulled the pick guard off. 

Warmouth has a Strat neck that has the truss rod adjustment access in the side of the necks heal, so you can adjust the neck without taking the neck or pick guard off. I have no idea if this works well or not.

Some Strat type guitars have a notch cut out in the pick guard and body so you can get a right angle flat blade or hex key in there and adjust the neck without taking the neck or pick guard off.   

[Willabe]

I am seriously thinking about getting this bridge plate for my Strat, the 6 mounting holes are cut/machined differently so the mounting screws don't bind, seems like it's a good/better design?

https://youtu.be/k0N1vDTvZII

And a Callaham steel block (with the steel saddles) that has a no slop/bushing for the trem arm, I want the steel block not just the bushing for the bar, both should be nice;

https://www.callahamguitars.com/index.html

Gabriel have you used either of these with a Strat?

[Ed_Chambley]

I have simply drilled the holes a bit larger on on the advice of John Suhr and it seems to reduce the friction caused by the vintage tremolo (vibrato really) and the guitar returns to in-tune.  I did it on my recent guitar and it stays in tune well.  Had to drill it 2 times.  The first time I did not go large enough.


I still prefer the Gotoh 510, 2 post if I plan to use do more than shake.


I do not know how anyone gets the "proper" relief in a Fender neck when they remove the neck to adjust.  Too many variables.  For instance, different strings of even the same size have different pull weight.  True round wound strings will put about 20% less pull on the neck with the same gauge since the winding does't bind to a Hex shaped inner core.  I remove the pick guard too.


I have heard great things about https://musikraft.com/index.php necks.

[Cree]

New problem with my pawn shop caster. I have a strange sound only in positions 2 and 4, only with the B string. Sounds like it is buzzing all frets, only in those positions. In 1,3,5 the B string is clear as the others. Fairly new strings, (3 months old?). The pick ups are non staggered poles, or flat poles. These pick ups have the metal plate on all three. Alinco magnets, not ceramic. Normal strat wiring w/.047uP cap. Wandering if this is normal for a Strat or this type of pickup (ie flat non staggered). And next question, about the plate on the pickups, good - bad most say only on the bridge pup. I do not want to encounter this problem in my current project build, it is a ugly sound.  I plan on vintage wound staggered pole pups in the new build, but have not decided on the pup plates or a volume treble bleed. Any suggestions there? Add a bridge plate or plates on all three and which treble bleed setup to use?

[G._Hoffman]

I am seriously thinking about getting this bridge plate for my Strat, the 6 mounting holes are cut/machined differently so the mounting screws don't bind, seems like it's a good/better design?

https://youtu.be/k0N1vDTvZII

And a Callaham steel block (with the steel saddles) that has a no slop/bushing for the trem arm, I want the steel block not just the bushing for the bar, both should be nice;

https://www.callahamguitars.com/index.html

Gabriel have you used either of these with a Strat?

Seems like overkill to me.  Jeff Beck is just using a stock trem from Fender.  If it's good enough for him....the rest of us need something a lot better?  My experience with the Callaham stuff is they are very well made solutions in search of a problem.  As for the arm, just put one of the little springs Fender sells down the hole, and it stays right where you want it.  I have to admit, though, I'm not much into cork sniffing this stuff - the guys I know with the best Strat tone sound the same no matter what Strat they play.


Gabriel

[G._Hoffman]

I still prefer the Gotoh 510, 2 post if I plan to use do more than shake.


I do not know how anyone gets the "proper" relief in a Fender neck when they remove the neck to adjust.  Too many variables.  For instance, different strings of even the same size have different pull weight.  True round wound strings will put about 20% less pull on the neck with the same gauge since the winding does't bind to a Hex shaped inner core.  I remove the pick guard too.

I do love 510s.  All the guitars we build have either 510s or Waverly.

On the other hand, I do hate heel adjust truss rods.


Gabriel

[G._Hoffman]

New problem with my pawn shop caster. I have a strange sound only in positions 2 and 4, only with the B string. Sounds like it is buzzing all frets, only in those positions. In 1,3,5 the B string is clear as the others. Fairly new strings, (3 months old?). The pick ups are non staggered poles, or flat poles. These pick ups have the metal plate on all three. Alinco magnets, not ceramic. Normal strat wiring w/.047uP cap. Wandering if this is normal for a Strat or this type of pickup (ie flat non staggered). And next question, about the plate on the pickups, good - bad most say only on the bridge pup. I do not want to encounter this problem in my current project build, it is a ugly sound.  I plan on vintage wound staggered pole pups in the new build, but have not decided on the pup plates or a volume treble bleed. Any suggestions there? Add a bridge plate or plates on all three and which treble bleed setup to use?

Without seeing it, I've no idea what is wrong with it (sorry), but I will say that our typical recommendation for strings is to change them at LEAST every two months.  Any longer than that and the corrosion from just sitting in the air will start to cause intonation and buzzing problems.  Why that would manafest itself only in those two positions, I have no idea. 

Plates are usually a Tele thing.  No place on a Strat.  In my never humble opinion.

I intensely dislike the treble bleed mod - it changes the sound of the guitar when the volume is at 10, and in a way I don't like.   Not for me.


Gabriel

[Willabe]

I am seriously thinking about getting this bridge plate for my Strat, the 6 mounting holes are cut/machined differently so the mounting screws don't bind, seems like it's a good/better design?

https://youtu.be/k0N1vDTvZII

And a Callaham steel block (with the steel saddles) that has a no slop/bushing for the trem arm, I want the steel block not just the bushing for the bar, both should be nice;

https://www.callahamguitars.com/index.html

Gabriel have you used either of these with a Strat?

Seems like overkill to me.  Jeff Beck is just using a stock trem from Fender.  If it's good enough for him....the rest of us need something a lot better?  My experience with the Callaham stuff is they are very well made solutions in search of a problem.  As for the arm, just put one of the little springs Fender sells down the hole, and it stays right where you want it.  I have to admit, though, I'm not much into cork sniffing this stuff - the guys I know with the best Strat tone sound the same no matter what Strat they play.

Gabriel

Thanks  Gabriel. 

[Ed_Chambley]

I am seriously thinking about getting this bridge plate for my Strat, the 6 mounting holes are cut/machined differently so the mounting screws don't bind, seems like it's a good/better design?

https://youtu.be/k0N1vDTvZII

And a Callaham steel block (with the steel saddles) that has a no slop/bushing for the trem arm, I want the steel block not just the bushing for the bar, both should be nice;

https://www.callahamguitars.com/index.html

Gabriel have you used either of these with a Strat?

Seems like overkill to me.  Jeff Beck is just using a stock trem from Fender.  If it's good enough for him....the rest of us need something a lot better?  My experience with the Callaham stuff is they are very well made solutions in search of a problem.  As for the arm, just put one of the little springs Fender sells down the hole, and it stays right where you want it.  I have to admit, though, I'm not much into cork sniffing this stuff - the guys I know with the best Strat tone sound the same no matter what Strat they play.


Gabriel

Gabriel, I played one of those Jefff Beck custom shop models with the roller nut and a standard version as well.  I couldn't get them to stay in tune.  I bet Jeff Beck couldn't either.


I do agree that it is very possible to keep a vintage trem to stay in-tune, but off the shelf obviously the custom shop builder who built the Beck model I played couldn't do it.

[G._Hoffman]

Gabriel, I played one of those Jefff Beck custom shop models with the roller nut and a standard version as well.  I couldn't get them to stay in tune.  I bet Jeff Beck couldn't either.


I do agree that it is very possible to keep a vintage trem to stay in-tune, but off the shelf obviously the custom shop builder who built the Beck model I played couldn't do it.

Well, Jeff Beck quite clearly CAN keep them in tune - it's just the rest of us who have problems!


Gabriel

[Willabe]

Well, Jeff Beck quite clearly CAN keep them in tune - it's just the rest of us who have problems!

Yep. 

[Ritchie200]

I think there is a huge difference between the original 6 screw and the "American standard" or whatever the heck they call the new two post.  Especially at high volume, there is no contest.  The 6 screw sustains like a banshee.  I think there is a reason Leo put that many screws in there.  There are numerous tutorials about how to set up that bridge to float and how to set the six screws. The original nuts just need a little file dressing and some go juice.  The real secret is to use the heaviest strings you can play.  You put 9's on there and you will be all over.  Also make sure you have some tension on the springs - make them work.  In other words you don't want 5 springs on 9's.  I never had tuning problems with the original trem. The only other thing I did was swap out the original Fender machine heads with Schaller.  They didn't lock but had a better ratio.

Jim

[SILVERGUN]

Warmouth has a Strat neck that has the truss rod adjustment access in the side of the necks heal, so you can adjust the neck without taking the neck or pick guard off. I have no idea if this works well or not.

Yup, works just fine...




I have a partscaster sitting here waiting for one of these:

[Ritchie200]

That's a cool design!  Although if set right, nothing digs into the wood on a 6 screw.  It did go flat on the high strings after his noodling but they may have been new.  Who uses new strings?!?!?!

BUT MORE IMPORTANT....  SG, you have a Strat?  My son!!!!  You have finally come home!  After years of aimless wandering, you have finally seen the light!

Jim

[SILVERGUN]

BUT MORE IMPORTANT....  SG, you have a Strat?  My son!!!!  You have finally come home!  After years of aimless wandering, you have finally seen the light!

Jim

Nope, just a body waiting for parts...and it's got two big humbucker holes in it so I'm sure that disqualifies it.
 
Who wants to limit themselves to those plinky-plank single coils anyway?
If I was gonna do that, I'd at least go P90

[mresistor]

Cree - I suggest you check out the neck "profiles" of strat necks before you order one. For instance, the 50's necks with the V make my fret hand hurt after about 20 minutes of playing, where the rounder back profiles do not. It's a personal preference thing. You might like thin necks or medium C or U shapes or even the baseball bat profiles. Or you might like the V necks, and there are assorted V shapes too. My neck of choice is a Fender 60's reissue with a 7.25" radius. Radius is another consideration that is personal preference. I like 10" radius on my Music Man guitars but on the strat I like the vintage 7.25" radius. You might like a compound radius. As well, the 60's Fender necks like the '62 are a tad wider at the nut.  Whether you want maple or rosewood is up to you. I like the "feel" of rosewood board as well as it's more mellow sound as compared to all maple necks. Many of the fender necks are one piece maple, which is kind of cool. Fret size is another consideration. Some like vintage frets and some like medium jumbos or even jumbos or tall and narrow. I really like my Music Man fret shape best of all, but on the vintage strat I like the vintage frets. Concerning truss rod adjustment, the vintage strats adjust at the body and it is a little more of a PIA than headstock adjust or that other one mentioned. Since my '62 pickguard has a little cut by the truss rod end I can usually get to it to make adjustment without too much trouble. I loosen up the neck mounting bolts and tilt the neck back, if I have to, to access it, leaving the strings on.  My strat body is a Fender Classic Player 60's  in alder with the two point trem, which is like the Music Man two point trems and I find them to be very good and stable. Pickups....  there are bazillions of them out there and they come in so many flavors that it's almost impossible to cover them all. My fave set came in a MIK Tone Pro Strat which I have a Classic Vibe '60s neck on. They seem to be real close to original 62 strat pups to my ear. For my vintage 60's strat I had a guy on ebay named Chrisher wind me a set to '62 specs and I am very happy with them. They didn't cost an arm and a leg either and are very comparable to Fralins, Suhrs, Kendricks etc. I've had a bunch of different pickups in strats and I like these. Another winder I could recommend is Brian Gunsher at BG Pups. I have been looking at these though and they intrigue me. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stratocaster-Alnico-2-5-MIXED-Magnets-Custom-Pickups-Set-By-Q-Fits-Fender/112253613659?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649. If you want to use a Fralin plate on the bridge pickup that's up to you. I don't suggest it for any other position, and original strats never had one, but I have used one on a DiMarzio blue velvet loaded pickguard for a SSS Silhouette Special and I liked the tone. But then, those were some super nice blues pups. that pickguard assy. is somewhere onstage in England these days. Yup, there are millions of different opinions on Strats and how people like them. It's whatever works for you and gets you the sound and feel you like.

[mresistor]

The b string buzzing could be the nut slot is cut too low. Is the string in the saddle correctly? Or is there a burr on the saddle?


The skunk stripe is usually found on one piece necks and it is how the manufacturer or builder was able to insert the truss rod. The walnut or rosewood stripe fills the slot. On a neck with a separate fret board the truss rod is laid in prior to the fret board being joined to it.

[Willabe]

Nope, just a body waiting for parts...and it's got two big humbucker holes in it so I'm sure that disqualifies it.

                 

[Willabe]

Warmouth has a Strat neck that has the truss rod adjustment access in the side of the necks heal, so you can adjust the neck without taking the neck or pick guard off. I have no idea if this works well or not.

Yup, works just fine...

Thanks, good to know. 

[Willabe]

Who wants to limit themselves to those plinky-plank single coils anyway?

Ummmm, who? Lets see, Jimmi H., Jeff Beck, Eric C., Rory Gallagher, R. Blackmore, SRV, David Gillmore, Buddy Guy, Otis Rush, Vince Gill, Bonnie Raitt, Ry Cooder, Niles Lofgren, Larry Carlton, .............

Yeah, they were pretty limited on single coil Strat PUP's.     

[Platefire]

Interesting strat discussion going on here. I've been very much into strat set up last couple of years
and have learned a little experimenting with my project stats. I agree with getting staggerd locking tuners and doing away with the string trees. On the ones that do have string trees I use Dynaguide that IMHO are the best friction free.
http://www.dynaguide.nl/

My favorite neck is on a 1997 CIJ 50's reissue with the V neck. 7.25 radius and smaller frets. Kinda bassball bat type but really feels natural and at home to me.

On the trem---I love classic 6 screw floating. To me it just has a smoother easier feel than the two post/screw type. I set the two outside screws about 1/16" off the bridge plate and the inner 4 about 1/8". I like 3 three springs not angled and no angle on the claw. The back of the bridge plate between 1/8" to 1/4" off the body. Regarding tuning, once you get your string tree situation corrected the nut is the main demon on string restriction. I use graphite and a dab of WD-40 on a Q-tips usually does it.

I have one strat with the two screw post trem set floating. I have tried a lot of settings on it but no matter what it has a stiffer feel than the classic 6 point/screw to me. I like a easy very responsive feel. It seems the two post trem likes the bridge plate set parallel with the body from front to back where the trem base plate with the knifes edge meets the beveled groove in the post at 90 degrees. I've found if you set the trem base plate raised up or dropped down below 90 degrees(perpendicular) it restricts the movement because the knifes edge of the base plate rides up on the edge of the bevel of the post too quickly and restricts. Set right in the middle of the groove gives it the freest movement both ways.

I've just recently started using the trem arm tension spring and amazed how much improvement in trem operation it brings. Without the spring normally the arm falls down to the lowest point of gravity and everytime you need it you have to grab it and bring it into position all over again. I didn't realize the time and effort required to reach and grab everytime as to now, it's handy for use all the time. The only down side is I like to do volume swells and you have to consciously move it out of the way and then move it back into position afterward. I'm having to relearn trem arm movement and action but as a result of the tension spring, I'm using the trem more than ever simply because now it's handy.

Pickups definitely single coils generally Alnico V. I do have one project strat with the original ceramics that I left in because they were the best ceramics I've heard--subject to change any time:>). I have one strat with Texas Specials that I like but have been playing lately one with more Fender vintage winds in the 5.9 K area and they just sound amazingly sweet that tone reflects through even when using pedals.

I thought I would throw my 2 cents in since I've decided a strat is my favorite, tele second and humbucker Gibson types third. I was raised up on twangy guitar of the 50's, 60's but also came to love the singing fat tone of a Les Paul and all the Hybrids resulting from that. I think a standard strat configuration can come close to getting the twang of a tele, The neck pu can come close to LP/335 sounds with right amp settings/pedals plus there is the quack sounds that I like very much. So a strat can effectively cover a lot of musical ground in the right hands. I'm working on getting my hands right:>).

Strat setup is a deep subject and I'm constantly adjusting, experimenting, modding and learning.  Enjoyed reading all your comments, tips and shared strat knowledge. Thanks, Platefire 

[G._Hoffman]

Warmouth has a Strat neck that has the truss rod adjustment access in the side of the necks heal, so you can adjust the neck without taking the neck or pick guard off. I have no idea if this works well or not.

Yup, works just fine...

Well, they work.  Mostly.  I'm not at all fond of them, myself.  It takes too many turns, the range of motion isn't very good, and they just never seem to work right to me.   Also, I've had a few of them that just wouldn't stop buzzing, even when everything was right.  Give me a peghead adjust every time.


Gabriel

[G._Hoffman]

Radius is another consideration that is personal preference. I like 10" radius on my Music Man guitars but on the strat I like the vintage 7.25" radius. You might like a compound radius.

My favorite radius these days is the USA Custom Guitars 7.25"-9.5" radius.  That, combined with the fall off they build into their fret work, and they feel great, but don't fret out when you're bending - even better than a straight 9.5".


Gabriel

[mresistor]

This guy has an interesting method of setting up a Strat vintage trem floating  ( wish I could find that guitar for 3 bills ! ) 

[Willabe]

Warmoth side adjust truss rod.

[Cree]

Yes, there is a lot of great info here. Very worth reading. I want to Thank all who have joined in and left their ideas and comments. It is great.

[Cree]

Quote from G._Hoffman
« on: November 03, 2017, 03:26:46 am

My favorite radius these days is the USA Custom Guitars 7.25"-9.5" radius.  That, combined with the fall off they build into their fret work, and they feel great, but don't fret out when you're bending - even better than a straight 9.5".

I do like their neck's, and I do like that radius also. After all I have learned and read about Fender neck's. I feel they are the most vintage correct built out there. Just can't fall in love with the heel adjust truss rod though. But I keep getting closer and closer to putting one in the cart. It is a toss up between them and Musikraft. May flip a coin soon and just go with who ever wins. Just ordered more stuff today, small stuff, some screws and a CTL switch, some wire, pots and the like. A guy I work with is a hound for old electronics, he gave me 2 old tropical fish capacitors he had in a bag for 20 something years. .047uP, that was cool.  Checked them with a meter and they still good. Close enough. Went with a set of Pickups that are not reverse wound in the Mid position all three same spec's 6kohms, they are on the way. Can't wait to get the stuff to finish the body.