Belton Reverb Brick

[TIMBO]

Thanks mate, I'll give'em a bash.

[TIMBO]

Hi guys, I have had some success....
Adding the 220k mix resistor has added another problem.
It lets the dry signal pass with the reverb pot turned to zero, but it also lets a full strength dry signal through to the amp input.
So it acts like an overdrive pedal, which is not a bad thing.
I connected the 220k to the wiper of the trim pot, this has helped to reduce the dry signal but it also looses signal it the trim is turned to 0.
Inturn if V1b does not have the reverb pot turned up enough the tremolo won't work and then if the reverb pot is turned up there is too much reverb.

Side note, connecting the trem to V1a cathode sounds crap.

I might try putting the reverb pot between the brick and V1b.
 

[tubenit]

Watching this with great interest!  Thanks for sharing your build and schematic.  Looking forward to seeing what you come up with that you're
most favorable towards.

With respect, Tubenit

[PRR]

> acts like an overdrive pedal

There's much too much gain to be a straight-through signal path.

Try a 50K resistor on the output jack.

[TIMBO]

Thanks PRR, Just not sure what you are asking.

[TIMBO]

Hi guys, I think this one is sorted.
Retried some of the suggested tweaks and there is now a good mix between the trem and verb.

[TIMBO]

Hi guys, Put the finishing touches on this one.
With some great info from sluckey and a bit from http://www.valvewizard.co.uk/trempcb.html
The trem works great.

[davidwpack]

I recently built a reverb pedal with the Belton brick. I actually prefer it over the real spring reverb.

[TIMBO]

Hi guys, With the valve circuit working well with these bricks...

Could the IRF820 type mosfet be used to replace the valve???

[tristanc]

Could the IRF820 type mosfet be used to replace the valve???

Don't see why not. I used a TL072 as input buffer and make-up (just like a pedal) and it seems to work well. No need for high voltages. I used LND150s for my loop (following MOSFET Follies, normal B+ voltages) with the reverb hardwired in the return section. Very happy with it so far.

[TIMBO]

Thanks mate, I was looking to modify this

In a way I could remove the transformer and connect the brick input to Q1

[shooter]

connect the brick input to Q1

I would think the bottom of C1 1st, if there isn't enough drive then maybe you'd need Q1 to drive the brick 

[PRR]

> connect the brick input to Q1

No. Q1 outputs a hundred volts signal. The Brick needs like one volt signal. If it worked it would blow up the brick. However it won't do anything without some DC feed to Q1, a transformer or resistor.

Do the opamp plan in #59.

[TIMBO]

Thanks PRR, That's all I need to know.

[TIMBO]

Thanks, tristanc 

[tristanc]

Thanks, tristanc 

If you want I could send you one of my reverb PCBs I had made up? £5 + shipping. Might save you some time.

Let me know.

Am very pleased with the resulting sound and there's scope for adding more controls (length of reverb and tone) to the front / rear panel if desired.

Tristan

[jojokeo]

Tristanc,
Are the two back to back zeners for protection or to limit possible distortion to the inputs of the LND's?

[tristanc]

Are the two back to back zeners for protection or to limit possible distortion to the inputs of the LND's?

They're to protect the LND150s if they get heavily overdriven.

Here's the thread where I went through development:
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/instruments-and-amps/325029-adding-belton-reverb-module-pedal-amp.html

And the specific post on the zeners: https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/instruments-and-amps/325029-adding-belton-reverb-module-pedal-amp-post5492663.html