Another #$@%^ add-on Reverb Thread

[alathIN]

Seems to be a recurring topic on tube amp forums... I've picked up a lot of good stuff here and there but still some things I know I don't know and probably more I don't know I don't know.

I'm building a Trinity TC15 head - a two channel 15 watt Vox-derived amp.

I've seen multiple variants of a reverb circuit derived from the Fender Princeton floating around the internet. They all bear a family resemblance but differ in the details. There are some old threads on the Trinity forum and a schematic posted by user kurtlives, but the forum seems pretty quiet now and kurtlives apparently doesn't frequent the board any more.
There's another variant posted here in an archive thread by Tubenit http://el34world.com/Forum/index.php?topic=7957.0
They're pretty close, but I like some of the details on Tubenit's version better, especially the variable dwell control.

Some of my musings and questions:

On the TC15 schematic I've indicated where kurtlives took the signal to the reverb and send it back. It's between the top boost channel tone stack and the phase inverter. It's very near where Trinity's designer says you can put an effects loop, except that the reverb version puts the whole reverb circuit in parallel with a 100k resistor. Tubenit's example seems to show the reverb in-out located between the second and third preamp valves. Not sure what the advantages/disadvantages would be of these two options.

I'm foolishly determined to put the reverb and dwell controls on a concentric dual pot. There isn't a lot of extra space on the panel - though I could put the reverb and dwell on complete opposite ends of the panel if I really had to. Nobody makes the 1M/1M concentric pot this would require. My idea was to use a 500k/500k with resistors in series. Check me if I'm wrong - if I put a 500k resistor in series with the 500k reverb pot, I'd still get the "no reverb" side of the spectrum but not the "max reverb" setting? Everyone says that this circuit generates a lot of reverb and I'm probably OK with it not going all the way to max. I'd probably wind up experimenting with resistor values on the dwell side of the pot. It seems like people use values between 500k and 1M when the dwell is fixed so my sense is this should work. Would appreciate correction if my assumptions are wrong here.

I ordered an accutronics tank for this project. To make it work with my head configuration I needed it to mount under the top of the cabinet (open side up) and my only choices were accutronics, or paying a kabillion $ for shipping to get a Tube Amp Doctor tank from Germany.

I'm attaching the schematics below and would appreciate any feedback or suggestions.

[sluckey]

The TC-15 is a Matchless Lightning with the Matchless DC-30 EF86 preamp channel added. Or, you could also say, the TC-15 is a 2xEL84 version of the Matchless DC-30. Look in the schematics library at the bottom of this page and compare the schematics I just mentioned to the TC-15 and you'll see what I mean.

OK, I mentioned these two Matchless amps because I also want you to look at the Matchless Chieftain. It has another reverb circuit that's almost identical to what you are considering. It's driven from the Fx jack also, but the reverb is returned to the second input of the PI. This means you don't have to use any mixing circuit. But there's a cost. You would lose the EF86 channel. So, if you are married to the EF86 sound, this is not for you. It's still worth a look-see.

I built a Matchless Lightning a few years back, but never bonded with it. It became a donor for my Vox AC-15. May give you some ideas. It's pretty much identical to the TC-15 but without the EF86 channel. You can see my project here...

     http://sluckeyamps.com/lightning/matchless.htm

[Leevi]

If you want the reverb for both channels (12AX7 and EF86) connect  the channels together with 220K resistors before the PI (not in PI)
and add the reverb after that point. Also connect the other grid of the PI with a 100nF capacitor to ground.
/Leevi

[tubenit]

IF I were attempting to add reverb to this schematic, I'd probably try something like this knowing it might need to be tweaked.  I'd put a dwell pot on the back of the chassis since I almost never adjust the dwell ……….. or use a 1M dwell resistor.  You can try a 500p or 680p instead of the .001 dwell cap if you prefer.

I'd get rid of the crossline master volume which is the worst sounding master volume I've ever heard, IMO  (buzzy sounding) & instead use a PPIMV with a dual gang 250k pot.

You will have to figure out what B+ node to use for the reverb.  I can't help you with that.

I'd have a passive effects loop after the reverb.    PLEASE keep in mind this "one tube reverb" is subtle & it is no where near "surf music reverb". It adds a measure of fullness to the tone.

As as Leevi said, I'd change the C8 cap from .01 to .1. 

With respect, Tubenit

[Leevi]

IMO the passive Fx loops are not working well in tube amps. The only benefit with it is
that you can take the signal out from SEND (preamp out) or use the power amp alone via RETURN (power amp in).


I don't see any idea to put SS-devices (effect pedals) to the middle of the signal way of a tube amp.


/Leevi

[tubenit]

IMO the passive Fx loops are not working well in tube amps. The only benefit with it is
that you can take the signal out from SEND (preamp out) or use the power amp alone via RETURN (power amp in).

My experience is that it depends on the effects pedal.  I currently have two amps with active FX loops and one with passive.   The pedals that have worked well for me with passive effects loops are:  Boss digital delay (don't remember which model),  Carbon Copy delay,  Moen Pretty Dolly delay  (my favorite) and Digitech RV-7.

The amp that passive effects loop has it right after a one tube reverb similar to the schematic that I've drawn. I've used passive effects loops in maybe 3 or 4 amps and was fine with the result.  I prefer an active FX loop, of course.

With respect, Tubenit

[Leevi]

it depends on the effects pedal


 I prefer an active FX loop, of course

I agree, if you absolutely want to have a loop implement it as an active loop.


/Leevi

[alathIN]

Thanks for all this info!

The TC-15 is a Matchless Lightning with the Matchless DC-30 EF86 preamp channel added. Or, you could also say, the TC-15 is a 2xEL84 version of the Matchless DC-30. Look in the schematics library at the bottom of this page and compare the schematics I just mentioned to the TC-15 and you'll see what I mean.

OK, I mentioned these two Matchless amps because I also want you to look at the Matchless Chieftain. It has another reverb circuit that's almost identical to what you are considering. It's driven from the Fx jack also, but the reverb is returned to the second input of the PI. This means you don't have to use any mixing circuit. But there's a cost. You would lose the EF86 channel. So, if you are married to the EF86 sound, this is not for you. It's still worth a look-see.

I built a Matchless Lightning a few years back, but never bonded with it. It became a donor for my Vox AC-15. May give you some ideas. It's pretty much identical to the TC-15 but without the EF86 channel. You can see my project here...

     http://sluckeyamps.com/lightning/matchless.htm

I have been ogling your AC-15 project and it looks awesome. I was tempted try something along your lines, but felt like at this stage I still need the sort-out-ed-ness of a kit and support of a kit vendor.
I am kind of married to the EF86 channel -- or at least not ready to "divorce" it at this stage 

IF I were attempting to add reverb to this schematic, I'd probably try something like this knowing it might need to be tweaked.  I'd put a dwell pot on the back of the chassis since I almost never adjust the dwell ……….. or use a 1M dwell resistor.  You can try a 500p or 680p instead of the .001 dwell cap if you prefer.

I'd get rid of the crossline master volume which is the worst sounding master volume I've ever heard, IMO  (buzzy sounding) & instead use a PPIMV with a dual gang 250k pot.

I'd have a passive effects loop after the reverb.    PLEASE keep in mind this "one tube reverb" is subtle & it is no where near "surf music reverb". It adds a measure of fullness to the tone.

As as Leevi said, I'd change the C8 cap from .01 to .1. 

With respect, Tubenit

Dwell knob on the back of the chassis sounds like a good compromise. And, luckily, I don't need full-on surf reverb. I'm more of a "subtle ambience" reverb guy. The reason I'm wanting to do this is that if I can get a hint of "I'm playing in a more interesting place than my tiny home office/music room" I would have a guitar-amp-speaker signal chain 90%+ of the time and not use pedals much.

I've never met a master volume I was totally happy with. This amp comes with a push-pull MV pot to bypass it, probably for the reasons you mentioned.
I was pleasantly surprised that I understood the post-phase inverter MV schematic. It looks great and a better MV would be most welcome. Are there any downsides to this? 'Cause I'm about to order a dual gang 250k pot as we speak.
I am planning to use Trinity's voltage-based attenuation mod, and likely put a speaker load attenuator like a Weber minimass after the amp. My idea is not having to heavily rely on any of these schemes to get to the volume I want.

If you want the reverb for both channels (12AX7 and EF86) connect  the channels together with 220K resistors before the PI (not in PI)
and add the reverb after that point. Also connect the other grid of the PI with a 100nF capacitor to ground.
/Leevi

This sounds great but I'm having a hard time visualizing it from words.
Any chance you could sketch this?

[Leevi]

Any chance you could sketch this?

Tubenit has drawn it pretty well in the following schematic.
He has used 150K resistor instead of 220K in the first channel.

http://el34world.com/Forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=23893.0;attach=73688;image

/Leevi

[alathIN]

Any chance you could sketch this?

Tubenit has drawn it pretty well in the following schematic.
He has used 150K resistor instead of 220K in the first channel.

http://el34world.com/Forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=23893.0;attach=73688;image

/Leevi

OK, I see it now - I caught the ppimv mod but not the combined channels mod.

Thanks for the EE consult, Tubenit!

[alathIN]

OK, I mentioned these two Matchless amps because I also want you to look at the Matchless Chieftain. It has another reverb circuit that's almost identical to what you are considering.

You can definitely see the "family resemblance" in the Matchless schematics.
After the mods I'm planning, my amp will basically be a Chieftain with an extra EF86 channel and EL84s instead of EL34s.

Trinity also has their "crunch vs munch" switch, which is supposed to flip between Vox-sounding vs Matchless-sounding overdrive characteristics. I've never heard a Matchless so not sure what that would be like.

I hope I have a different experience than you did - you obviously must like Vox tones to do that amazing AC build. I like Vox-flavored myself so we'll see how it goes.

[PRR]

TC15 schematic copy.jpg needs a dot where R12 R13 R14 R15 come together.

[Leevi]

Matchless Chieftain has totally different preamp as DC30/Lightning/AC30...


I have built one Chieftain and it also sounds diffrent.



https://el34world.com/charts/Schematics/files/Matchless/Matchless_chieftan.pdf


/Leevi

[sluckey]

Matchless Chieftain has totally different preamp as DC30/Lightning/AC30...

Yes. I should have mentioned that. But I just wanted to point out the unique reverb circuit in the chieftain since the TC-15 is a Matchless amp.

[alathIN]

TC15 schematic copy.jpg needs a dot where R12 R13 R14 R15 come together.

I'm not a fluent in schematicese as y'all, but you mean those leads are supposed to connect instead of 14-13 being separate from 12-15?
If so you're right - the layout shows them all connecting there.
Sharp eye.

[alathIN]

IF I were attempting to add reverb to this schematic, I'd probably try something like this knowing it might need to be tweaked.  I'd put a dwell pot on the back of the chassis since I almost never adjust the dwell ……….. or use a 1M dwell resistor.  You can try a 500p or 680p instead of the .001 dwell cap if you prefer.

I'd get rid of the crossline master volume which is the worst sounding master volume I've ever heard, IMO  (buzzy sounding) & instead use a PPIMV with a dual gang 250k pot.

You will have to figure out what B+ node to use for the reverb.  I can't help you with that.

I'd have a passive effects loop after the reverb.    PLEASE keep in mind this "one tube reverb" is subtle & it is no where near "surf music reverb". It adds a measure of fullness to the tone.

As as Leevi said, I'd change the C8 cap from .01 to .1. 

With respect, Tubenit

I like these mods and I understand them on the schematic level.

Now I'm struggling to figure out how to translate that into a layout I can actually build.

There are some extra pieces now that don't have places on the turret board.

My first idea was to put the 220k resistor on the EF86 channel's volume pot then connect a lead from there to the 150k which I'll put on the turret board where the original schematic had the 220k resistor
Then the other 150k resistor on the 12AX7's treble pot, connect a lead from there to the same 150k on the turret board

Scratch all that. I'm going to need to draw it up, then post it here for feedback.

[tubenit]

I think Hoffman's layout board designs are terrific and make great sounding amps and are quiet at "idle".

Having said that,  most of my builds are "experimental"  AND because of that I primarily use paralleled turret boards UNTIL I have a proven design.  That way IF something doesn't work/sound right, then I can still use the same layout boards to change to something else.

Hiwatt turret boards would be an example of parallel turret boards.

IF you are using ExpressSCH, then you can use the generic parallel turret board layout to draw up your build from the schematic:

https://el34world.com/Forum/index.php?topic=14802.0

Look at this SCH thread for an AC30 and AC15 amp design and see if there is a layout here that you can use and modify to what you want?  It might be easier to draw from scratch but at least these might give you an idea of parallel turret boards for this type of amp topology.  Take a look particularly at the AC30 layout with reverb in Reply #1 to see if there are some useful ideas there?

https://el34world.com/Forum/index.php?topic=575.0

With respect, Tubenit

[alathIN]

OK, you guys have me already planning my next amp - and not from a kit. Something along the lines of the famous Sluckey vintage AC - Some of the AC30 bells and whistles but I don't need more than 15 watts.

For this TC15, I've already got the turret board from Trinity. I was planning to make a small "accessory" turret board off to the side for the reverb circuit; I think there's a good spot for this.
Since most of the new stuff is either right before or right after the reverb, my idea was to see if I can incorporate the changed stuff into the reverb board.

I've got some time tonight and tomorrow. I'll try to come up with a modified layout and run it by the panel of experts here.

[sluckey]

Did you buy a TC-15 kit complete with transformers and pre-punched chassis? If so, I don't think you have room to add two tubes, reverb transformer, and various components.

[alathIN]

Did you buy a TC-15 kit complete with transformers and pre-punched chassis? If so, I don't think you have room to add two tubes, reverb transformer, and various components.

I share your concerns, and with your vastly greater experience of amp building you have more a sense of this than I do. You may well be right.

A few slightly less pessimistic observations -
It's a one-tube reverb circuit (two halves of a 12ax7), and in the head configuration, there's an extra spot for a tube socket that isn't used. In your pic, they've got a plug in that hole second from the right - so no problem making room for the extra tube socket and it should fit right in to the heater wire daisy chain.
There's room between the two transformers on the top of the chassis for one more - it's a bit tight, but it does work out being at right angles to the others. People have put reverb transformers and chokes in this spot and gotten away with it over on the Trinity forum.
The extra turret board doesn't have tons of stuff on it, all the components are small, so (maybe?) it will fit at a right angle just to the right of the main turret board in your pic.
There's some room to move the main turret board over 1.5~ish inches if I had to
In your pic there's a big white box that I think is a push-pull on/off to bypass the MV. I'm not using that pot/switch, so there will be a touch more space in that spot.


But overall, yes, I do think this is going to be tricky to make it all work and make it all fit - not to mention concerns about draping signal wires over heater wires or whatever other layout problems I might encounter.
My idea at this point is to try to figure out what the layout would be and see what will fit and what won't.
If it looks like it's going to be a mess, I will eliminate some or all of these mods and save them for my next build.

[alathIN]

Re, space and complexity:

It's really tempting to leave the master volume off of this build completely.

1) the power switch will be replaced with trinity's "VRM" - a voltage-based attenuator
2) I am already anticipating running this amp with an external speaker motor type attenuator
3) Removing the MV would open up a perfect spot to put the reverb pot - and it's in the right area of the layout

If I do use a MV it'll be the PPIMV suggested above.

But now I'm tempted to drop it entirely.

Again I'll work on the layout and see what might or might not fit

[tubenit]

After seeing the chassis layout,  I personally would NOT add a one tube reverb. 

What I would add is the Zero Loss FX loop kit from Metropolous:

https://store.metropoulos.net/products/zero-loss-fx-loop-kit

And then with that active FX loop, I'd use delay and/or reverb pedals. 

with respect, Tubenit

[alathIN]

After seeing the chassis layout,  I personally would NOT add a one tube reverb. 

What I would add is the Zero Loss FX loop kit from Metropolous:

https://store.metropoulos.net/products/zero-loss-fx-loop-kit

And then with that active FX loop, I'd use delay and/or reverb pedals. 

with respect, Tubenit

Is this based on space considerations?
Or is it a concern about how the components might interfere with each other and make noise?

The metropoulos circuit would fit perfectly to the upper left of the rear panel...

Having ordered the components (!) I am tempted to continue working on the one tube reverb mod and see if the problems clean up or get worse as I go.
Does the idea of eliminating the MV modify your opinion?
PS did you also see my reply above, regarding there is already an empty tube socket hole in the chassis?

[tubenit]

1)  I would be concerned about the layout (& space)

2)  Because of the layout, I would be very concerned about noise & "interference" as you mentioned

3)  Yes, I was aware of space for another 9 pin tube

4)  I have a some moderate preference for delay over reverb.  The active FX would work well with both pedals.

5)  The Metro FX loop is reported to be noise free and preserve original tone which you expressed as a concern to me in a private PM

6)  There is space for the Metro FX loop and it would be located in a good position in the layout, IMO

7)  No, the MV elimination is not a factor in my thinking

It is your amp and you should approach it in the way that you want to.  When I first starting posting the "one tube reverb" schematic on some different forums,  …………. I was readily shot down that it absolutely would not work.  (even though it was already working on numerous amps I had done). 

So just because I don't think shoehorning the one tube reverb in your chassis is the best idea,  it doesn't mean my guess on this is correct & perhaps you will install it and it will sound stellar.   On the flip side,  I have also had more experienced builders point out a concern that I wanted to ignore and then had to back track.

The key to me with "experiments" like this is IF you are patient, persistent and will stick with it  & work carefully and be willing to consider an experiment that didn't work a success in informing you what does and doesn't work.  I've tried to maintain that mindset in my builds.  To date, I've never cloned any production amp & I've probably tried over 2 dozen amp designs/prototypes. So, I consider a lot of my success in finding the tone I like to be from trial and error.

With respect and good will,  Tubenit

[sluckey]

Sorry. It was not my intention to sound pessimistic. Did not realize you were headed to the one tube reverb circuit. That empty tube hole is a very noisy place to put a sensitive reverb tube.

[alathIN]

The key to me with "experiments" like this is IF you are patient, persistent and will stick with it  & work carefully and be willing to consider an experiment that didn't work a success in informing you what does and doesn't work.  I've tried to maintain that mindset in my builds.  To date, I've never cloned any production amp & I've probably tried over 2 dozen amp designs/prototypes. So, I consider a lot of my success in finding the tone I like to be from trial and error.

With respect and good will,  Tubenit

I appreciate your thoughts here and I respect the experience they come from.

Overall, the whole thing is an experiment. If the reverb mod just becomes an exercise in brainstorming mods, and I wind up not doing it, that's OK.
At this point I'd like to keep exploring, and reserve judgement about whether to implement or not until later.
I think if I continue the planning process, work on the layout, make but do not isntall the "mini" turret board and circuit, and just set the reverb transformer on the chassis to see how much space there is, it will probably become more apparent as I go on whether this is a good idea or not. All I have to do is avoid doing anything that would be hard to undo later.

I made an attempt at a combined layout which I've attached.
Thoughts about the layout:
1) I'm new to all this, and modifying circuits adds a level of complexity - seeing how complex this was just to draw up, I'm a bit intimidated to actually try and do this.
2) Unless I'm just missing problems through inexperience, I'm guardedly optimistic about the amount of space available. A lot of the things I need are in the right places or nearby. Some of the connections on my layout are long, but that's mostly because the reverb board is off to the side. With the reverb board where I'd intend to put it, right next to the output transformer, all the things I need would be very close to one another
3) I made a bit of a mess by running all the grounds separately to the power ground star. If I were to do this, I'd be tempted to put a mini ground bus on the mini circuit board, and just send one wire from there to the power ground star.

The only "do it or don't do it" decision I'll have to make soon is whether I put a socket in the empty spot and include it in my heater wiring scheme.
My sense is that it would be harder to add it later than take it out later, so I'm tempted to go ahead and put it in for now.

One other thing that might or might not help: I was planning to make my own "mini" board, and given the small size of the components, I think I could make it pretty small.

[alathIN]

Sorry. It was not my intention to sound pessimistic. Did not realize you were headed to the one tube reverb circuit. That empty tube hole is a very noisy place to put a sensitive reverb tube.

Sometimes the combination of experience and wisdom can produce results that are nearly indistinguishable from pessimism ;-)

I suppose I could move the power tubes over one slot and put the reverb tube on the other side of them (ie, put a different tube in the noisy spot?)

I do have the kind of tube sockets that have a metal shield that goes over the tube - does that help?

[PRR]

I would steal the tube and pot line-up from some known-good reverb amp. i.e. split between preamps and driver, slide driver/outputs over, and put reverb tube and pot in the middle.

This is quite a complicated build. Have you done something on this scale before? After dinking with silly-state for a decade, I build an AA Champ, and was astonished how much work it was. (Compounded by being more experimental than routine.)

[alathIN]

I would steal the tube and pot line-up from some known-good reverb amp. i.e. split between preamps and driver, slide driver/outputs over, and put reverb tube and pot in the middle.

This is quite a complicated build. Have you done something on this scale before? After dinking with silly-state for a decade, I build an AA Champ, and was astonished how much work it was. (Compounded by being more experimental than routine.)

This is orders of magnitude more complex than any of my previous projects.

I chose a kit instead of a scracth build to save myself hassle.
Then go hunting for ways to add hassle.

[alathIN]

OK, new plan. Two elements:

1. No loss effects loop.

2. Stand alone reverb.

I've seen some schematics for #2, but if anyone has a favorite please share.

This is really two projects. I like delay too. I really like real spring reverb. But I don't want the spring reverb project to mess up the amp project.

[sluckey]

Fender 6G15 is an excellent reverb unit and a simple build. My favorite is Hoffman's Revibe. It combines the 6G15 reverb and the 6G12 harmonic vibrator circuits. Hoffman has a kit for either or you could roll your own using the info on the site.

Both of these units operate with instrument level signals and can be used with any amp.

[alathIN]

The metropolous effects loop looks like a very manageable mod so I went ahead and ordered one.

Trying to decide whether to incorporate the PPIMV mod or not.

I started working on the modified layout. I think I have it right from the phase inverter to the dual gang MV pot, but I get lost trying to go from there to the power tubes.

Tubenit's schematic for PPIMV has the power tubes wired very differently than the original TC15 schematic, and I'm not sure I can make the changes without a major re-work of the layout.

I'm attaching the original and mod layouts. ( I have an updated copy of the original schematic but it "fails this forum's security check" ?)

If there's a good way to make the mods without a major layout redesign I'd deeply appreciate showing me how.

If it's going to require massive changes, it's probably beyond my abilities at this point.

Thanks again for all the brainstorming time and effort to this point!

[sluckey]

I highly recommend building the amp exactly IAW the Trinity documents. Then once you have an operational amp, play with the crossline MV for a while. You may like it. If not, then modify for tubenit's MV.

[alathIN]

Fender 6G15 is an excellent reverb unit and a simple build. My favorite is Hoffman's Revibe. It combines the 6G15 reverb and the 6G12 harmonic vibrator circuits. Hoffman has a kit for either or you could roll your own using the info on the site.

Both of these units operate with instrument level signals and can be used with any amp.

So they'd probably be great in the metropolous no-loss effects loop...

I saw your schematic for the revibe. It looks awesome.

I already have the reverb transformer, tank, and parts for the one-tube reverb above on the way.
It looks like the tank and reverb transformer could be used in either the Fender or the Revibe.

I need to finish the amp first - but I was contemplating just getting a power transformer and rectifier, and build the one-tube (or perhaps the Princeton circuit that is very similar but uses two tubes) as a standalone. Assuming I could supply it with power, is there anything major that would prevent this working as a standalone.

[alathIN]

PS - one of the reasons I'd like to build a simple reverb is I'd like to build my own chassis.
I grew up in a metal fabricating shop (my dad's) so this is one of the few tasks of amp building that I'm actually experienced and well equipped to do!

[sluckey]

The RT you ordered will not work with the 6G15 or Revibe. The 6G15 and Revibe are designed to work between the instrument and amp input. They won't work well in an effects loop without some modifications.

The one tube reverb could certainly be built as a standalone unit but it will have to be used in an Fx loop.

Do you actually have the TC15 kit yet? Made any progress? Or is this project still just in the idea stage?

[alathIN]

The RT you ordered will not work with the 6G15 or Revibe. The 6G15 and Revibe are designed to work between the instrument and amp input. They won't work well in an effects loop without some modifications.

The one tube reverb could certainly be built as a standalone unit but it will have to be used in an Fx loop.

Do you actually have the TC15 kit yet? Made any progress? Or is this project still just in the idea stage?

I've got the TC15 kit - next step is the heater wiring (one of the reasons I have been over-pressured about the reverb mod is knowing whether to include the extra tube socket and heater wiring for it.
At this point I'm decided that I need a chassis plug, not an extra tube in the design ;-)

Since I've got these mod vs. no-mod questions answered, I was considering starting a "build" thread so I can post pictures of my steps and y'all can tell me when I'm about to blow myself up.

[sluckey]

I was considering starting a "build" thread so I can post pictures of my steps and y'all can tell me when I'm about to blow myself up.

Excellent idea. We love build threads with pics.

I'm especially interested in the TC15 because I was considering that circuit back when I built my Lightning. My Dual Lite amp is very similar to the TC15 except I used a Marshall preamp rather than the DC-30 preamp.