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Offline The Ballzz

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Please Help Me Understand?
« on: May 12, 2020, 12:21:08 pm »
Please help me understand what is going on here?



Let's first look at the upper channel inputs. Obviously there are no grid stoppers, only grid leaks. My take on the inputs is that if I plug into input #1, it parallels the grid leaks to ground for an overall effective 500kΩ grid leak and also sends input to both triodes of the 12AY7. Moving to the right, we have two plate load resistors coming from the DC power node. Then just to the right, there are two more 100K that I assume are effectively "mixing" resistors to "mix" the signal produced by those two triodes. Then onward through the .02-600 coupling cap and volume pots to the 270K resistors that I assume to also be "mixing" resistors to "mix" the two channels together, before entering the driver stage of the cathode follower tube. Am I correct so far? What confuses me a bit is what is actually happening and being accomplished by the interaction of those four 100K resistors, especially when driving both triodes in parallel from input #1?

Next, can I assume that the only way to actually "plug into" both channels and access both grids of each channel simultaneously is to use a "Y" cord or all parallel box arrangement, plugged into the #1 input of each channel? It also appears that if I do this, I'll end up with an effective grid leak vale of 250K? This 250K seems a bit low for an input grid leak, but am I missing something here?

My eventual proposed goal here is to have the input drive the grids of all four triodes, from just two jacks. One jack to access just both grids of the two triodes of one channel and the other jack to access both channels. I do not intend to ever drive only one triode at any time. It seems that in addition to having an already low resistance grid leak/input impedance, there will also be a fairly substantial drop in signal strength of approximately -3db for each parallel connection? One thing I'm wondering is if to best accomplish my goal, I may need to re-calculate the grid leak values and possibly even add grid stops of 68K or 33K for each channel, although that would seem to drop the signal level even more?

Please help me understand what is actually going on here and the feasibility of what I'm proposing to accomplish. I'm going to guess that for initial testing purposes, it may be best to go ahead and wire up one input jack and simply play around with grid leak values? I'm extrapolating that this one input, paralleled to all four triode grids may want to see either a single 1M or 500K grid leak?

Thanks Folks,
Gene

Offline PRR

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Re: Please Help Me Understand?
« Reply #1 on: May 12, 2020, 12:55:05 pm »
> I do not intend to ever drive only one triode at any time.

Why?

> It seems .....there will also be a fairly substantial drop in signal strength of approximately -3db for each parallel connection?

Why? (Have you tried this? Need a guitar and several resistors, not an expensive experiment.)

And.... you seem to know just what you want. You do not have to use some ancient circuit really intended to allow several players on one amplifier.

Offline The Ballzz

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Re: Please Help Me Understand?
« Reply #2 on: May 12, 2020, 01:55:59 pm »
> I do not intend to ever drive only one triode at any time.

Why?

> It seems .....there will also be a fairly substantial drop in signal strength of approximately -3db for each parallel connection?

Why? (Have you tried this? Need a guitar and several resistors, not an expensive experiment.)

And.... you seem to know just what you want. You do not have to use some ancient circuit really intended to allow several players on one amplifier.

Yes PRR, I totally get what you're saying. I'm a weird guy though who is simply wanting to experiment with repurposing this "ancient circuit" for a use that it was never actually intended for. I've posted questions regarding the possible/probable results of my intended use, from one end of the innernest to the other and only get multiple variations of the same two answers, either: "No, I've never tried that" or "Why would you ever want to do that, when you can do this, that or the other thing!" I have a sneaking suspicion that I may end up with not necessarily more gain (gain and overdrive is not my goal here), but instead a stronger, fatter and more robust signal with enhanced tonal/harmonic complexity along with clarity. On the other side, it may end up sounding like a big pile of poop! At least I'll know for sure after trying it properly. This is the first intended iteration of the attached schematic. If through trial and error this doesn't produce the desired or otherwise pleasing results, I'll either repurpose one of those two tubes or even eliminate it altogether and go with a 5E4/5F4 preamp layout.

Thanks For Your Thoughts,
Gene



Offline nandrewjackson

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Re: Please Help Me Understand?
« Reply #3 on: May 12, 2020, 03:15:36 pm »
The skys the limit, Gene.
Build it and find out what happens


OR


don't build it and keep getting non-answers to your question. 




Offline Willabe

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Re: Please Help Me Understand?
« Reply #4 on: May 12, 2020, 04:00:24 pm »
You want to understand?   :icon_biggrin:

Then you need to read this;
 
How to design valve guitar amplifiers

And this;

Aiken Amps

And this;

Amp Stuff

And this;

http://sluckeyamps.com/misc/Amp_Scrapbook.pdf

And that's just to get started.  :wink:
« Last Edit: May 12, 2020, 04:05:43 pm by Willabe »

Offline The Ballzz

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Re: Please Help Me Understand?
« Reply #5 on: May 12, 2020, 10:33:39 pm »
I am well aware of all the time consuming resources out there to help me learn how to answer all of these questions for myself, including reading the the books and articles mentioned, along with endless hours of studying just to understand the material. At 65 years old, I've spent my whole working life of 50+ years in the music industry, alternating between gigging guitarist/singer, sound engineer and running a sound system rental company for more than 25 of those years, doing most of the repairs needed along the way. I have pretty good bench skills and although some of my knowledge may be a bit limited, I know enough to get by. I've successfully built several really stellar tube amps along the way. At my age I'm quite thankful to still be performing in a fairly steadily working band, but my time is quite limited in many ways. While I may have enough time to twiddle around in my shop to assemble an amplifier, the time needed to devote to becoming well versed in amplifier and tube technology is not really in the cards during what's left of this lifetime.

All I'm asking for here is for some of those who already have the knowledge and experience to help me check and analyze my work and assumptions, along with possibly sharing a bit of targeted advice. Please understand that I'm not expecting those who've devoted their lives to this stuff to give away their hard earned secrets for free, just maybe share a bit of gained wisdom to help me build what may be my last and hopefully "Holy Grail" for me amplifier! I've already done a lot of the research and simply need some help filling in the blanks!

And I don't want to offend anyone, but when I ask a specific, detailed question, a comment from someone who may actually know the answer of "Go read several books and figure it out for yourself" is not really providing much help. I've always thought the whole purpose of discussion forums was to share questions, answers and solutions for helping each other fill in the blanks in each others' knowledge base about a passionately shared subject? I mean heck, if everyone read Merlin's book (and others) and heavily studied all of the technology surrounding tube amps, forums like this would have no need to exist!

In other words, I simply don't have the time, capacity or energy to spend days of studying just to "maybe" find the answers to a few fairly simple questions!

Thanks For The Thoughts,
Gene
« Last Edit: May 12, 2020, 10:40:14 pm by The Ballzz »

Offline nandrewjackson

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Re: Please Help Me Understand?
« Reply #6 on: May 12, 2020, 11:44:00 pm »
It seems like you have a good mental grasp of what's going on in the preamp as shown in the diagram you've posted.


You're right about the 4-input grid leaks being in parallel if all 4 inputs are used simultaneously by one input signal.


So when you get to the building process, keep that in mind. One input jack per 1st stage triode pair? Use a single 1M for each pair. And when the 2 inputs are bridged to drive all 4 triodes parallel,  you'd have a total 500K grid leak, that's not too low for ok results.  Or, personally,  I would have 1 single input jack , 1 hardwired signal wire to one pair of triodes that has a 68K stopper and a 1M grid leak, and a SPST front panel switch to either allow or stop the guitar signal to the other pair of triodes, which have their own 68K stopper and 1M grid leak.


As for everything after those 4 parallel triodes, personally,  I'd leave all that as in the schematic you posted. The four 100K mixing resistors aren't doing a whole lot more than what they're supposed to do, raising/lowering or removing them may or may not be beneficial.  But , this is your amp experiment,  go ahead and try different values.

Offline The Ballzz

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Re: Please Help Me Understand?
« Reply #7 on: May 13, 2020, 12:26:13 am »
It seems like you have a good mental grasp of what's going on in the preamp as shown in the diagram you've posted.


You're right about the 4-input grid leaks being in parallel if all 4 inputs are used simultaneously by one input signal.


So when you get to the building process, keep that in mind. One input jack per 1st stage triode pair? Use a single 1M for each pair. And when the 2 inputs are bridged to drive all 4 triodes parallel,  you'd have a total 500K grid leak, that's not too low for ok results.  Or, personally,  I would have 1 single input jack , 1 hardwired signal wire to one pair of triodes that has a 68K stopper and a 1M grid leak, and a SPST front panel switch to either allow or stop the guitar signal to the other pair of triodes, which have their own 68K stopper and 1M grid leak.


As for everything after those 4 parallel triodes, personally,  I'd leave all that as in the schematic you posted. The four 100K mixing resistors aren't doing a whole lot more than what they're supposed to do, raising/lowering or removing them may or may not be beneficial.  But , this is your amp experiment,  go ahead and try different values.

Thank You,
Last topic first. I wasn't necessarily proposing a change at those 100K resistors, simply trying to wrap my ahead around what was actually going on there. While there are a couple other amps with what looks at first glance "similar" arrangements, this 5E8-A is the only one that drives two triodes in parallel in stock form while combined with that four 100K arrangement. The 5E5 and 5E4 come close, but not quite. Then, given that this amp is so unique unto itself, very few folks are even remotely familiar with its function and there is even less literature surrounding it. On the other hand, this particular amp is well known for it's stellar tones and response and I'm guessing a lot of it has to do with how the front end of the preamp operates! This is why I'm looking to add to it's design the functionality of a typical jumpered 4-input/2-channel amp like a 5E3 or Marshall style amp, but with each channel having two parallel triodes. I'm thinking that for full effect, I may need to split the cathodes of the two tubes and that will open a whole new round of calculations and testing.

I think I've determined the order of my testing to be first, playing around with grid leak values on just one channel and then trying 68K and subsequently 33K grid stops. Then remove the grid stops and see how it reacts with both channels driven, play with those grid leak values and then with then adding grid stops. Some of the impetus for these questions is real estate on the front panel, in addition to making the switching between one channel and jumpered work with the least noise. Your idea of simply using a switch is probably the best option, as opposed to my original idea of using two stereo, TRS, switching Cliff jacks. Of course, if it all works like I think it will, having a single channel option may be a moot point, as I don't think I'd ever bother using it that way. Still though, it may end up sounding like doggy doo-doo and need to become something else altogether?

I really appreciate your comments and the sharing/posting of my thoughts helps to clarify my ideas.

Thanks Again,
Gene

Offline nandrewjackson

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Re: Please Help Me Understand?
« Reply #8 on: May 13, 2020, 12:32:43 am »
Ha!


I didn't even notice the shared cathode with all of the other aspects being talked about.


+1 on splitting the 2 tubes cathodes!

Offline The Ballzz

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Re: Please Help Me Understand?
« Reply #9 on: May 13, 2020, 01:01:11 am »
Ha!


I didn't even notice the shared cathode with all of the other aspects being talked about.


+1 on splitting the 2 tubes cathodes!

Yeah, I'll address the cathodes once I get fired up, if necessary! Everything South of the volume pots to the speaker out is pretty straight forward and well known territory. I do suspect however that getting all my B+/dropping string voltages where I want them may be a bit of a challenge with the PT I'm going to use. Although the PT is not written in stone, but I already have it on hand. I'm looking for 372-ish volts at the OT/CT. While I want the voltage right, I don't want to overshoot the required current by very much, as what I shooting for is the character of both the 5E8-A and the 5E3 power section, even with all their well known warts,, stray hairs and crooked teeth. Even ugly girls can do some pretty cool things!  :icon_biggrin:

Thanks Again,
Gene

Offline Willabe

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Re: Please Help Me Understand?
« Reply #10 on: May 13, 2020, 08:16:56 am »
a comment from someone who may actually know the answer of "Go read several books and figure it out for yourself" is not really providing much help.

Not what I said.

I think the 1st link I post has the info you are asking for.

The more someone has read, tried to research up on their question, the easier it is to help them with any remaining question.

You wrote you want to understand.
« Last Edit: May 13, 2020, 08:36:14 am by Willabe »

Offline Willabe

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Re: Please Help Me Understand?
« Reply #11 on: May 13, 2020, 08:33:56 am »
Stop and think, have you ever seen an amp that had 4 triodes in parallel for the input stage? I haven't. Got to be a reason for that.

Their are a few amps that use a parallel input stage, but it's only 2 triodes, not 4.   
 
But like someone said, just try it.

A 4 input amp, you could try 3 Y cords.   
« Last Edit: May 13, 2020, 10:05:43 am by Willabe »

Offline Willabe

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Re: Please Help Me Understand?
« Reply #12 on: May 13, 2020, 09:19:44 am »
What nandrewjackson said. +

Let's first look at the upper channel inputs. Obviously there are no grid stoppers, only grid leaks. My take on the inputs is that if I plug into input #1, it parallels the grid leaks to ground for an overall effective 500kΩ grid leak and also sends input to both triodes of the 12AY7. Moving to the right, we have two plate load resistors coming from the DC power node. Then just to the right, there are two more 100K that I assume are effectively "mixing" resistors to "mix" the signal produced by those two triodes. Then onward through the .02-600 coupling cap and volume pots to the 270K resistors that I assume to also be "mixing" resistors to "mix" the two channels together, before entering the driver stage of the cathode follower tube. Am I correct so far? What confuses me a bit is what is actually happening and being accomplished by the interaction of those four 100K resistors, especially when driving both triodes in parallel from input #1?

Yes, and the grid leaks, yes, you are correct.  As nandrewjackson already said. You have all that correct.

The 2 x 100K mixing R's stop the signal from the output of the triode your plugged into from going back through the other triodes 100K plate R then through the B+ filter cap for that stage. The B+ filter caps capacitance is so large it looks like ground the the audio signal. So without those mixing R's you'd have a loss gain.

Offline Willabe

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Re: Please Help Me Understand?
« Reply #13 on: May 13, 2020, 09:53:52 am »
While there are a couple other amps with what looks at first glance "similar" arrangements, this 5E8-A is the only one that drives two triodes in parallel in stock form while combined with that four 100K arrangement. The 5E5 and 5E4 come close, but not quite. Then, given that this amp is so unique unto itself, very few folks are even remotely familiar with its function and there is even less literature surrounding it.

Their not driving the 2 triodes in parallel ( || ), because each triode is driven from a different input. To drive the 2 triodes in ||, they have to be driven with the same input.

It looks like Fender tried the 5E8-A input stage and decided they didn't need the extra 4x100K mixing R's and 4x100K plate R's, IF they used 1 shared plate R on each 12AY7 tube, like on the next model, 5F8.

They had each triode with it's own 100K mixing R and it's own 100K plate R, they went to sharing 1 plate R for each tube, 2 triodes/1 tube. So the input had 8 x 100K then they changed it to only 2x100K R's. Those mixing R's help isolate 1 triode from the other, but they figured out that moving the coupling cap let them rewire it and didn't need all 8x100K R's. So they abandoned it. They saved the $ on the 6x100K extra R's and eyelet board space. Win, win for Fender. On the next Twin model, 5F8, they also decided to get rid of 1x12AY7 but keep 4x inputs.     

Why didn't they need the extra 100K mixing/isolation R's? Because the 1M volume pots do the same thing and that freed them up to use only 1 plate R for both triodes by moving the coupling cap. Look where the coupling cap is on the 5E8-A and the 5E5 and 5E4. The 5E5 is a 5E3, with 6L6's and an extra input tube. Remember all these early amps had the extra input jacks for all the guys in the band to plug into 1 amp. So on the 5E5, they gave each input it's own input stage triode. On the 5E3 2 input jacks had to share a single triode. Fender tried things, some stuck, some they abandoned.   

On the other hand, this particular amp is well known for it's stellar tones and response and I'm guessing a lot of it has to do with how the front end of the preamp operates!

Probably not the single reason or main reason, probably very little difference in tone/sound with the extra 100K mixing/isolation R's. 

Many of the old Fender tweed amp sounded great.

Again, they abandoned it, if it made a huge difference in tone, the players/buyers would have complained and for the $, board space, and labor, it would have been worth it to keep the extra 100K R's.

On the other hand you might hear a small difference, depends on you ears too. Try it, see if you hear any likable difference.

This is why I'm looking to add to it's design the functionality of a typical jumpered 4-input/2-channel amp like a 5E3 or Marshall style amp, but with each channel having two parallel triodes. 

The main reason they jumper Marshall amps is because some of them the bright channel is ear splitting bright, and the bass channel is very muddy. So they jumper them to mix the 2 together, then they sound great. It does give a little more gain, but it's really because of the tone. You can't use them without jumpering the 2 channels together.

I have a 5E3 clone I built. I've jumpered the 2 channels together, it doesn't need the extra gain.

5E3's distort way to easy as they are going into just 1 input. And you can get blocking distortion very quickly at the PI grid without doing a mod to tame it. The link for Robrob has the mod.         
« Last Edit: May 13, 2020, 12:42:30 pm by Willabe »

Offline Willabe

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Re: Please Help Me Understand?
« Reply #14 on: May 13, 2020, 12:09:14 pm »
This is why I'm looking to add to it's design the functionality of a typical jumpered 4-input/2-channel amp like a 5E3 or Marshall style amp, but with each channel having two parallel triodes. I'm thinking that for full effect, I may need to split the cathodes of the two tubes and that will open a whole new round of calculations and testing.

You can build it that way, but like PRR and I said, the functionality of the design was so more players/singers could use the same amp. Amps were expensive and everybody, especially young bands, couldn't afford their own amp.

The Marshall thing was a design flaw, that turned out to be a happy accident.

Their will be possible pluses and definite minuses in doing a 4 x || triode input. You'll have to weigh them out to see if there's an overall benefit to what you want to do. 

Amps are designed to take a very small input signal and amplify it with in reason, as much as they can, to protect that small input signal from noise and instability problems. Input stages are the most sensitive because the signal is so small. What ever noise gets amplified along with the input signal in that 1st gain stage, will be amplified by every gain stage after. Each gain stage amplifies anything that's injected into that tubes grid and any hiss from that stages R's and from that tubes heater.  But each stage after the signal is much larger than the noise/hiss/heaters, so that it swamps out them out.

A few builders do use a || input stage. Probably to get a little more gain and use up the extra triode they're other wise not using in that amp. There are some benefits to || 2 triodes.

I think you'll get a lot more signal to noise (s/n) noise from 4 triodes instead of 1 and the added noise penalty of 4 triodes having to amplify the very low guitar pick ups (PUP's) output, and the noise from amplifying 4 separate triode heaters instead of 1. And you will have extra grid wire with very small signal on them, could be a problem for noise and/or instability. (You might be able to/might have to use shielded wire to fix any problems there.)

You'll have more noise from more plate R's, more cathode (K) R's, and more grid R's. I don't know if you could get away with using a single plate/K/grid R on 4 triodes? Wiring might be a mess and cause problems? A set of R's for each tube might be fine.

Extra space, 2 tube sockets instead of 1, more board space, you could do 1 (or 2) jacks instead of 4. Maybe a front panel switch?

With 4 triodes in || the gain will slam the next triodes grid, causing blocking distortion, very unpleasant sounding. You will have to cut that signal down with a voltage divider before the next grid and a large grid stopper. But it can be done. Using a low gain triode like a 12AU7 would also help a lot. But it still might be too much gain without a voltage divider before the next grid and use a large grid stopper? But the R values in the voltage divider and grid stopper would be smaller.

You can try it but you'll need a 4 input amp with 2x tubes/4x triodes at the input. Most all 4x input jack amps only have 1 input tube. You could just try 2x || input triodes to hear if you think it's better, going in the right direction sound wise? 

If you want more gain or a fatter, fuller, beefier sound, there's other ways to do that without the noise and possible stability problems.

A single || input tube with a couple/few other mods might be likeable to you? Would probably get you out of some possible/probable noise/stability problems.
« Last Edit: May 13, 2020, 01:29:53 pm by Willabe »

Offline DummyLoad

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Re: Please Help Me Understand?
« Reply #15 on: May 13, 2020, 02:14:25 pm »
Next, can I assume that the only way to actually "plug into" both channels and access both grids of each channel simultaneously is to use a "Y" cord or all parallel box arrangement, plugged into the #1 input of each channel? It also appears that if I do this, I'll end up with an effective grid leak vale of 250K? This 250K seems a bit low for an input grid leak, but am I missing something here?

perhaps you are? think about the grid of any triode that's connected to the wiper of a volume pot - with the wiper at "0" the grid-leak resistance the grid sees is just a few ohms. now, why would that 250K be a problem hanging off an input jack? btw, it's not.

more food for thought; when you plug into the jack 2 (low) of a modern fender or marshall, the grid sees 68K to ground. that's not a issue, just more of load on the source. with nothing plugged in to inputs 1 or 2, the grid leak is 68K. 

typically in a grounded cathode class A setting grid leak resistance value has no minimum value but DOES have a maximum value depending on the bias mode. if you are running cathode grounded, then 10M is typically the highest value you'd want to use, if you are using a grounded cathode with auto bias (resistor K > gnd) , then the maximum grid-leak value for typical preamp triodes is 2M. US manufacturers didn't typically publish that spec. EU mfgs. did - see page 4 of the attached.

--pete

Offline The Ballzz

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Re: Please Help Me Understand?
« Reply #16 on: May 13, 2020, 03:36:36 pm »
Next, can I assume that the only way to actually "plug into" both channels and access both grids of each channel simultaneously is to use a "Y" cord or all parallel box arrangement, plugged into the #1 input of each channel? It also appears that if I do this, I'll end up with an effective grid leak vale of 250K? This 250K seems a bit low for an input grid leak, but am I missing something here?


perhaps you are? think about the grid of any triode that's connected to the wiper of a volume pot - with the wiper at "0" the grid-leak resistance the grid sees is just a few ohms. now, why would that 250K be a problem hanging off an input jack? btw, it's not.

Gene Says:
'The reasoning here is that most guitar pickups are designed/intended to see a 500K-ishΩ to 1MΩ input to ground resistance, that in tis case also doubles as the grid leak.'

more food for thought; when you plug into the jack 2 (low) of a modern fender or marshall, the grid sees 68K to ground. that's not a issue, just more of load on the source. with nothing plugged in to inputs 1 or 2, the grid leak is 68K. 

typically in a grounded cathode class A setting grid leak resistance value has no minimum value but DOES have a maximum value depending on the bias mode. if you are running cathode grounded, then 10M is typically the highest value you'd want to use, if you are using a grounded cathode with auto bias (resistor K > gnd) , then the maximum grid-leak value for typical preamp triodes is 2M. US manufacturers didn't typically publish that spec. EU mfgs. did - see page 4 of the attached.

--pete

Now, the way I read the attached schematic of the more "modern" black Face Deluxe Reverb, along with most 4-hole Marshals I've seen (and please correct me if I'm wrong?) is that the input/grid leak resistor is 1MΩ and the two 68K resistors are grid stoppers. Input #2 sees a 68KΩ grid stop and a 136KΩ input resistance (given that the input #1 tip and therefore 1MΩ are shorted to ground and the two 68KΩ are in series to gound) and not sure what the actual "grid leak" that the grid sees calculates out to, because of that pseudo voltage divider configuration, but looks like 68KΩ to me. Then #1 input sees those two 68KΩ in parallel for an effective 34KΩ and a 1MΩ grid leak value. The bigger grid stop and much smaller grid leak for input #2 are the reasons the #2 input is so much weaker than the #1 input.  Am I missing something.

Thanks,
Gene


Offline Willabe

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Re: Please Help Me Understand?
« Reply #17 on: May 13, 2020, 04:01:03 pm »
Page 11, a couple paragraphs, with hi-lighted diagram. One of the links I posted in reply #4. (Also page 12.)

Here it is;

http://sluckeyamps.com/misc/Amp_Scrapbook.pdf
« Last Edit: May 13, 2020, 04:45:19 pm by Willabe »

Offline The Ballzz

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Re: Please Help Me Understand?
« Reply #18 on: May 13, 2020, 05:37:25 pm »
Willabe,
Yes indeed, I've read that, in addition to the other stuff you linked. The "Marshall 18 Watt Normal Channel" is exactly what we're dealing with and with it drawn that way, its even easier/more evident to see that the two 1MΩ are in parallel for an effective value of 500KΩ grid leak.

And I'm especially happy to see that you were overly offended by my earlier post!  :icon_biggrin:

Thanks Again For That,
Gene
« Last Edit: June 05, 2020, 10:25:38 am by The Ballzz »

Offline shooter

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Re: Please Help Me Understand?
« Reply #19 on: May 13, 2020, 05:58:55 pm »
fwiw;
you can do the same experiment I did
plug in a sig source to a 68k grid, measure output
repeat with 34k (gator clips acceptable :)

what I kinda figured, it's like rolling guitar volume back by ~~ .5
Went Class C for efficiency

Offline Willabe

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Re: Please Help Me Understand?
« Reply #20 on: May 13, 2020, 07:25:22 pm »
And I'm especially happy to see that you were overly offended by my earlier post!  :icon_biggrin:

I wasn't offended at all. I did think your response to my post with links was odd. If I was 'overly offended' by your post I would not have answered any of your questions in the open forum, but would have sent you a PM.

Please help me understand what is actually going on here and the feasibility of what I'm proposing to accomplish.

This is what you asked for in your 1st post, and that's what I tried to answer. The title of your thread is help me understand.

I spent a long time writing out answers to your questions, explaining to you some of the +/-'s of the thing you want to try as I see them. I said a few times you can try it for yourself. I just told you probable problems you will run into as I see it.

Not my problem if you didn't like the answer.

Willabe,
Yes indeed, I've read that, in addition to the other stuff you linked. The "Marshall 18 Watt Normal Channel" is exactly what we're dealing with and with it drawn that way, its even easier/more evident to see that the two 1MΩ are in parallel for an effective value of 500KΩ grid leak.

And I'm especially happy to see that you were overly offended by my earlier post!  :icon_biggrin:

Thanks Again For That,
Gene

If you read that already, then you should already know the answer to your question in reply #16. Often a picture is easier to understand and then we don't have to write out a long response. Sluckey put all those things in his scrapbook because of that reasoning, those things get asked a lot here.

But this comment is not needed. Why would you want to be a smart guy? Seems that your the offended one? We try and be respectful to each other here.
« Last Edit: May 13, 2020, 08:02:44 pm by Willabe »

Offline DummyLoad

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Re: Please Help Me Understand?
« Reply #21 on: May 14, 2020, 02:05:55 am »
please correct me if I'm wrong?) is that the input/grid leak resistor is 1MΩ and the two 68K resistors are grid stoppers.

correct. grid leak is 1M and 68K act as grid stoppers. input #1 sees two 68K in parallel from tip to grid with a 1M grid stopper from grid stopper to ground. so then if we have 34K b/c the two 68K are in parallel with a 1M from grid stopper to ground for the grid leak.

when you use the "Lo or #2" input, jack # 1 has the 1M shorted to ground b/c the tip switch and tip are connected. simplified: when you're plugged into #2 you have a voltage divider that's 68K/68K - the 68K that connects from grid to ground acts as the grid leak and the 68K that connects from jack tip to grid is the grid stopper.

see attached the schema:

to use only the lower 2 triodes plug into J2. when you plug into J2 the upper 2 triodes inputs are grounded by the tip-switch of J1. what you have is 33K grid stopper from tip to grids and 1.5M from grids to ground as the grid leak.

to use all 4 triodes plug into J1. plugging into J1 opens the tip-switch so you have a 1.5M of upper 2 triodes in parallel with 1.5M of the lower two triodes since J2's tip-switch is closed - 1.5M || 1.5M is 750K for a grid leak since the network is connected from tip to ground. each pair of triodes has a 33K grid stopper from tip to triode pair.

--pete
 

 
« Last Edit: May 14, 2020, 02:09:13 am by DummyLoad »

 


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