Matchless Clubman Build Thread

[Lightbath]

Greetings fellow amp heads!

I'm about to start a Matchless Clubman 35 Build using Matchless transformers and as close to original components as possible. A good friend has also loaned me his Matchless Clubman Reverb for a few weeks for reference (Youtube link to amp guts below!). This should be a fun build and hopefully this thread can provide valuable information for anyone looking to build one in the future.

I am still open to suggestions for the chassis if anyone knows a solid builder. It looks like most of the parts will be fairly easy to source now that I have the transformers but I still have a few things to find:

1) There is a small value capacitor for the bright cap (schematic says 150pf but it measures closer to 280pf). Does anyone know where to find these? It has a clear plastic casing labeled "630V I800" or "1800" and no value or brand (pictured below).

2) Does anyone know where to buy quality high wattage carbon comp resistors (2 watts or higher)? There is a large 6.8k resistor near the filter caps and I don't want to use the 3W metal oxides I've been using.

3) I also notice Matchless is using Mallory 150s essentially everywhere (as opposed to the old Matchless stamped capacitors). Should I stick with Mallory or maybe go with something more boo-teek like Jupiter?

Here are the Clubman Guts:

[bmccowan]

There are numerous recent threads on chassis suppliers, with a number of recommendations - you may want to search them up. Of course, even more threads on capacitors. FWIW, I recently built an all octal 6V6 version of the Clubman with M-150 caps. Sounds great to my ears, but my ears are kind of screwed from over 50 years of rock & roll.

[Drgitpiker]

Hey there, Im kind of new to amp building, and  I like to build everthing myself , including chassis. Its not hard to make one, all you need is a table saw with a 7inch panel blade 2 2foot pieces of 1 to 2 inch angle iron, 2 bar clamps and a jigsaw.draw you chassis with sides ans bottom flange with a marker I use .050 aluminum sheet score all your bends on the tablesaw cuttin about 1/3 through the metal. Cut off the 4 un needed corner pieces with a jig or band saw. Clamp between the 2 pieces of angle to make a homemade metal brake. And bend over on the saw scores, start with bottom flanges , then sides. Most hardware stores sell a low temp alumunum welding rod that works with a propane torch, and weld up your sides. I buy scrap end pieces from a local sheetmetal supply. Last piece was $25 enough to build 3 chassis. Beats $75 + to have one made.

[acheld]

https://seasidechassisdesign.com

This guy is in Canada;  really on the ball and up front about what he can and can not do.   He's done a number of chassis's for me -- really great work. 

Not sure about shipping during the Covids, but worth emailing him for the info.

[vampwizzard]

Ive recently used zachmdhunter on ebay and synaptic amps on reverb. Both made solid chassis at really competitive prices. I prefer blank, dimensioned chassis with an IEC knockout already done for me.

As far as high quality carbon comp.. youre probably fine with TC or TT. Id imagine most of the companies are getting them from the same or similar manufacturer. Cheap components should have consistent quality across brands.

[imgumby001]

Ive recently used zachmdhunter on ebay and synaptic amps on reverb. Both made solid chassis at really competitive prices. I prefer blank, dimensioned chassis with an IEC knockout already done for me.

As far as high quality carbon comp.. youre probably fine with TC or TT. Id imagine most of the companies are getting them from the same or similar manufacturer. Cheap components should have consistent quality across brands.

I also used zachmdhunter. The chassis I received was awesome. The build went south on me, but the chassis will be reused for something even better. Hell, it may get reused again after that it’s so nice!!

[Lightbath]

Thanks for the suggestions. Zachmdhunter is great and very affordable, but I'm looking for something a little more finished. I am more than likely going to go with seasidechassisdesign. Quality looks great and he quoted me a very reasonable price of $75 + shipping.

Here's a complete parts list for anyone interested:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1wjLQXBSlyrrhPJU_TBu9tg8Vt5nw8AEffmY8Aw4jOEs/edit?usp=sharing

I have looked through the Clubman and everything appears to be correct in this schematic:

[Lightbath]

It seems sourcing some of these resistor values is going to be either pricey or difficult. The carbon comp resistors are costing me $80 alone from digikey.

Does anyone know where to get 1 watt resistors of various values? I specifically need 1M, 2.2M, 330k, 68k, 1.2k, and 8.2k.

I have looked on tube depot, digikey, mouser, hoffman, antique electronic supply, ebay, etc. I can not find these 1 want CC resistors at a decent price or even reliably in the values I need without having to buy from multiple places. Anyone have any leads?

[eurekaiv]

1) There is a small value capacitor for the bright cap (schematic says 150pf but it measures closer to 280pf). Does anyone know where to find these? It has a clear plastic casing labeled "630V I800" or "1800" and no value or brand (pictured below).

That's a polystyrene capacitor. You can get them from Mouser... not sure why they would be used vs. a mica cap unless the point was to save money. Also seems like Mouser doesn't have them in 630V ratings or lower pf values at the 500V rating. Digikey doesn't list PS caps at all best I can tell. Searching for PS or Polystyrene caps should help you find what you're after though.
https://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Capacitors/Film-Capacitors/_/N-9x371?P=1y95jjqZ1yznbzq

Also, the schematic might say 150 but I think the 1800 is actually 180(symbol) or a 180pf value most likely. Close enough to 150 to kinda make sense.

[m_sinyagin23@hotmail.com]

Can somebody tell me where in the schematic the 47K resistor is in the power supply portion? I see the 6.8k, 8.2K and the 220K all near the RF choke but there's also what appears to be a 47K that is not on schematics.

[bmccowan]

First - what is the context for your question? Building a Clubman or just curious, or other? The thread is a few years old.
Gut shot is a Clubman Reverb, while the schematic is a standard Clubman. The Matchless Chieftain Reverb has a 47K resistor in the power supply according to schematics I have seen, maybe that's a clue.
Regardless - amp mfgs change things. I don't think Matchless ever intended to fully document their circuits for hobbyist builders.

[m_sinyagin23@hotmail.com]

Thanks for answering, it appears you are correct that the 47K is for the reverb which I don't care about. Yes I'm trying to build one from scratch with the same transformers Matchless uses (pacific audio). I know Matchless won't just publish their schematic for anyone to view so I figured it was reverse engineered. Which brings me to my next question. Does anyone have a clubman to reference this schematic to? The more I'm comparing the schematic and gut shot video, the more I'm skeptical of the accuracy of that schematic. For example, both the treble and bass pots have an unsoldered pin not connected to anything in the video, but in the schematic we have all 3 pins connected. I used to own a lightning back in the day and want to build a clubman as accurate as possible.

[SEL49]

I'm skeptical of the accuracy of that schematic. For example, both the treble and bass pots have an unsoldered pin not connected to anything in the video, but in the schematic we have all 3 pins connected.

Two pins, three pins, makes no difference. The pots are wired as a two terminal variable resistor. Many people prefer to connect the unused pin to the wiper. Operation is the same.

Here's a slightly different schematic... https://el34world.com/charts/Schematics/files/Matchless/Matchless_clubman.pdf

[Willabe]

Here's a slightly different schematic... https://el34world.com/charts/Schematics/files/Matchless/Matchless_clubman.pdf

Is R1, V2-1/V2-2 plate R, really only 10K?

That throws away a lot of gain. 

[bmccowan]

Here's a slightly different schematic... https://el34world.com/charts/Schematics/files/Matchless/Matchless_clubman.pdf

Is R1, V2-1/V2-2 plate R, really only 10K?

That throws away a lot of gain. 

I built a Clubman using that schematic as a guide - not a full clone as I used a 6SL7 in V1 and cut back on the B+ in order to use 6V6s.
Some say that resister is 18K - I tried both and settled on 18K. The thing to keep in mind is that the parallel wired V1 is driving the V2 pentode. Most of the gain is developed in that pentode. Early Clubmans (Clubmen?) had the 6SH7, later models had the EF86. Many builders have used a 5879 for V2. All seem to work fine. It is a fairly clean, loud amp. If wanting more grit, modifying the resister and cap values associated with V1 would be one way to get there.

[bmccowan]

m_sinyagin
I have an Express sch schematic and a DIY Layout of that 6v6 amp if it helps. Let me know and I'll post them.
I did not try to replicate a Matchless style layout, as I find a turret board layout easier to understand/build/modify/repair.
I've posted the schematic before - I gave it a stupid name: Unmatched Fat Guy since its all octal tubes. Would be simple to redraw them with 9 pin preamp and EL-34 power section.

[m_sinyagin23@hotmail.com]

@bmccowan yea if you don't mind sending me that. Thanks for all the help ya'll~!

[m_sinyagin23@hotmail.com]

Sorry, another question. What about this connection here? It seams like the coupling cap is in between the wipers (master and brilliance) and the gnd connection is pin 3?

[AlNewman]

Sorry, another question. What about this connection here? It seams like the coupling cap is in between the wipers (master and brilliance) and the gnd connection is pin 3?

Kinda the same as the schematic above, only different.  That's the .0047 brilliance cap, and it looks more like this on a schematic.

[HotBluePlates]

... What about this connection here? It seams like the coupling cap is in between the wipers (master and brilliance) and the gnd connection is pin 3?

There is no "ground connection."

   1.  The Brilliance control sits between the 2 outputs of the phase inverter.  It is a variable-resistor in series with a cap between those outputs.

   2.  The Master Volume is a "cross-line master": it's just a variable-resistor between the outputs of the phase inverter.

   -  There is no-connection to the fully-clockwise-side of either pot.
   -  The Pots are connected on their "fully-counter-clockwise" side to one output of the phase inverter.
   -  The Brilliance cap (at the wiper of that control) connects directly to the Master Volume wiper, because these both connect to the same output of the phase inverter

[mresistor]

You could check here for carbon comp resistors   and could email Dave about values not shown  Resistor Shopping Cart (justradios.com)

[bmccowan]

@bmccowan yea if you don't mind sending me that. Thanks for all the help ya'll~!

Here you go: - all octal tubes and 6v6 power section.
The layout may seem a bit strange because I was working to fit a turret board that was originally intended for another amp.