... I built a scratch 5E3 ...
... I wanted to see if there is any advice on these measurements and design approach. ...
You forgot to subtract the voltage from cathode-to-ground, as the tube only "feels" voltage from cathode-to-plate when considering dissipation.
- Case 1: Vplate1 = 384.2, Iplate1 = 0.044A. 384.2v x 0.044A = 16.9w (rather than 17w)
- Volts across the 250Ω near 21v? (384.2v - 21v) x 0.044A = 16w
- Dissipations might be less-bad than you think, across the board.
After measuring voltages in vintage Fender amps I've come to find you can't trust the schematic voltages are correct. But let's look at the 5C3 Deluxe, since there are voltages on the
schematic.
- 18v shown across the 250Ω cathode resistor: 18v / 250Ω = 72mA.
- Preamp Current Draw: (308v screen supply - 280v preamp supply) / (10kΩ dropping resistor) = 2.8mA preamp current
- Screen Current Draw:
(360v plate supply - 308v screen supply) / (10kΩ dropping resistor) = 5.2mA screen + preamp current
(5.2mA screen + preamp current) - (2.8mA preamp current) = 2.4mA screen current
- This screen current (which is for both tubes, or 1.2mA per tube) sounds a little low to me, but let's roll with it.
- Total Plate Current = (72mA Cathode Current) - (2.4mA Total Screen Current) = 69.6mA
- Plate Current per tube = 69.6mA / 2 = 34.8mA
- Plate Dissipation = [(360v Plate) - (18v Cathode)] x (34.8mA Plate Current) = 11.9 watts
What's the big difference between the 5E3 Deluxe and the 5C3 Deluxe? Well, there's actually
a lot of differences, but in the power supply the dropping resistors were changed from 10kΩ/10kΩ to 5kΩ/22kΩ.
Lowering the resistor feeding the screen supply node raises the screen voltage, from 308vdc on the 5C3 schematic to your measured 347vdc. Higher screen voltage causes higher plate current. If you simply revery to 10kΩ/10kΩ as in the 5C3, your plate current will come down while still using the 250Ω cathode resistor.
There might be a slight reduction of power output, but chances are you won't notice as the output tubes also become easier to drive. Translation: the amp sounds as-loud at lower settings of the Volume control. Most folks these days are buying/building amps then complaining how loud they are & trying to attenuate them. Chances are you'll still want an attenuator after switching to the 5C3's power supply arrangement.
I think your experiments were good, trying larger cathode resistors to tame plate current. But if the 5E3 is over-hot it's because Fender jacked up the screen voltage without
also raising the cathode resistor value. Either way, cathode-biasing far into Class AB just doesn't work well, so it's probably reasonable to lower the screen voltage and run the amp Class A.
I've found other places where Fender's "last version" of an amp circuit actually created problems rather than solving them, so the 5E3 isn't necessarily a "better Deluxe tone" than one of the earlier circuits. I sometimes wonder if Fender monkeyed the 5E3 Deluxe to try to be a little bit louder than the
2x6V6 Harvard, and then dropped the issue with the switch to fixed-bias in the
brown Deluxe (while at the same time
changing the Harvard circuit to use up tweed Princeton chassis) and having the 6G3 Deluxe take over the role the
tweed Vibrolux covered.