Wiring guestion AC15 variant

[jyrki3101]

Hi,I built a prototype of an ac15 variant and I was very pleased with results, no hum, very punchy whith right amount of bite in the upper mids , and I could get it enough smooth and warm sounding turning the cut control up. But then I decided to do an exact copy of it schematic(and every component) wise in a 18W chassis , because the prototype chassis(tweed deluxe size) had so many unused holes drilled 'cause I had tweaked it so many times. I tried to do the wiring more neat and "good looking" so I twisted many of the wires between the turret board and pots(fender type tone stack/ch.2) and 2 low cut swithes.EF86 ch. has only volume pot and low cut switch(two caps in series and switch bypassing the second one)I also added 4M7 anti pop resistor to ground from between the caps.
I have not been so pleased with the sound of this "new better looking"version.
I would be very pleased if someone could advice me about the wiring ; what wires should not be twisted etc.
This difference in sound between the two could also come from component tolerances.I used Hammond 1750Y OT by the way in both, so they could have some small differencies in specs.
With Kind Regards, Jyrki. I would appreciate your help very much !!! Here are some pics....(attachments)..oh the jpg files are too big,  Ill try again

[Latole]

Only AC heater wires need to be twisted.

I see no pictures

[jyrki3101]

I tried and tried to attach a jpg picture but couldn't do it , the file size was too big ?????
Sorry, and thank you for your quick reply,

Jyrki

[jyrki3101]

....a new try to send pics...

[jyrki3101]

.....

[ac427v]

You noted that one difference between old version and new version is twisted signal wires.

What other differences are there?
Voltages on each tube pin for both amps would be one way to investigate.

Which component values have changed?
You may be able to perceive that I am skeptical that twisting wires would make much tone difference.   

[Latole]

Nice job !

[jyrki3101]

Thank you for your help and advice...component values are same on both, but tone stack(100k slope/250p/250k/22nF/250k/22n&6k8 resistor) caps on the prototype are mallory 150's and the new one has TAD mustard caps.Prototype has 1 input per channel w/1M /33k resistor and the new one with TAD 18W chassis has fender style HI/LO inputs(1M/68k // 68k).On both amps the grounding scheme is exactly the same. The Hammond 1750Y OT primary wires had a slightly higher DCR to ground than the one on prototype.Primary wires are also a little longer(twisted pair) because of the new bigger chassis....
With Regards,Jyrki

[jyrki3101]

I suppose this anti pop resistor(shown in the drawing) which I added don't make so much difference in tone....
Best Regards, Jyrki
edit: a mistake in the drawing, both triodes(tungsol 12AX7) share the same power supply node 22k/ 15uF) on both amps

[HotBluePlates]

... anti pop resistor(shown in the drawing) which I added ...

Why does it connect to ground and not across the 1nF capacitor?

If that resistor is the only change, it might make sense to unsolder one side to see what happens.

[jyrki3101]

Why does it connect to ground and not across the 1nF capacitor?
Hi , HotBluePlates , thank you for your help.... would you be so kind to draw me how I should wire that "anti pop" resistor, it's on a SPDT switch . I just kind of copied it from some Dumble amp scheme, where there's a mid boost with 2 series treble caps and the other is bypassed w/switch when activating the boost...and there's a 4m7 resistor to ground in that same place.....
I have not proper education in Electronics as you all have probably noticed and that's why I would appreciate very much your advice on these things....With Best Regards, Jyrki
Layout drawing as an attachment of the switch wiring....where should I move the resistor and does it have to be so big value...

[jyrki3101]

 I must be very tired 'cause I can't draw such a "simple " switch setup, it's very late now here in Finland......

[jyrki3101]

Did you mean the second version of these hand drawn circuits...putting the X ohm resistor across the 1nF cap on the SPDT switch...based on my very limited knowledge it becomes a (some frequency) peaking circuit when switch is "open".
I'm I wrong about this . On the prototype I used the 3rd version "ala" vox (brilliant sw.) but it makes a pop(not crazy loud though)
The 1st version "ala" matchless or vox  ac15 HW is hard to make on the 2nd channel 'cause there comes a problem w/ my turret board layout...on the EF86 channel I can make it like that....
Thank You ,I appreciate the help of you all ....
Maybe tomorrow after sleeping I'm more " clear minded" and understand what ' HotBluePlates' meant about the circuit change I should try !
Thank You to all , Jyrki

[jyrki3101]

I think I got it now ???
Here's the layout....

[sluckey]

I think HBP means this...

[jyrki3101]

Thank you Sluckey, It's an honour and priviledge for me to have help from you guys who are a million times more experienced in these things than I am. So HBP meant a brilliance switch that doesn't cut bass but instead boosts high free's.
I love the bass cut(brilliance) switch on old vox amps, and I used your AC15 Lite documents as a guideline but didn't implement the   option w/ make before break Rotary switch to trim the bass .In your ac15 the bass cut(brilliance) was done w/ SPST switch, ..does it "pop" a little ? 
I'm VERY curious about the possible change in tone after I put the 4m7 resistor to ground(from between C1 and C2) to prevent pop noise.
C2 is the brilliance cap and the switch is open "when brilliance on" and normal mode with switch closed.
If it does have an impact on sound then just snip off the 4m7 resistor and live with the slight pop noise...

[sluckey]

So HBP meant a brilliance switch that doesn't cut bass but instead boosts high free's.

HPB didn't care about bass or brilliance or highs. All he said was where to put the resistor to suppress the pops.

I replaced the SPST switch with a 6 position MBB rotary switch in my AC15 for more tone choices. No pops.

[jyrki3101]

Thank you  Sluckey, I think your answer covers all what bothers me with this "bass switch" pulldown resistor vs. other options.
I have MBB rotary switches to use but in live and studio-playing situations I have never needed more than two positions in my earlier builds with this rotary option....

I appreciate your kind help with this , thank you !