Not according to this guy. Is he wrong?
Yes and no.
The guy who built the kit used the back of the pots as a ground, probably least preferred way of grounding the pot connections. Your depending on the pots body metal to be low resistance and for the pots connection to the chassis to be good. As time goes by the connection to the chassis from the pots body and star washer will probably loosen and/or get corroded and you loss your ground. Many old amps the fix was to take out the pots and jacks, clean them with deoxit/fine brass wire brush/fine grit sand paper and reinstall them tightly.
So the guy fixing the amp put in the brass plate to use as a ground plain, instead of grounding on the back of the pots. This is better than the way it was, but......
There's a few ways to do grounding for the pots.
1. You can solder a buss wire all the way across the back of all the pots, and run the grounds from the pots to the buss wire. Then ground 1 end of that buss wire to the chassis. But it can be a pain to get the buss wire to stick to the back of the pots. You have to wire brush them or use sand paper to the the solder to stick. And you run the risk of over heating the pot if your soldering skills aren't great or you run into problems with the pots metal used for it's body. No thank you.

2. Or you can run the buss wire across the amp without connecting it to the pots bodies. A lot of guys do this with great results.
3. Or you can run your buss wired, from 1 ground star to the next ground star, across the length of the eyelet/turret board. This works great too.
Guys here have built dozens of amps here using the ground buss in 1 form or another and they are all very quite builds.