Thanks so much for your kind helpful remarks. I will do more digging. The schematic I was following is an actual 5E3 take from "THE TUBE AMP BOOK II". I used the Layout for a 5E3 clone kit I got from STUMAC, as I built one from a kit I purchased on line from them. I made it as close as I could, but due to my lack of experience, and trying to build the cheapest copy of it I could, I made some major mistakes. First, I bought parts from outside the U.S., through a third party, resulting in a total fiasco when I had questions. Working from the provided schematic, I assembled the amp, painstakingly testing each resistor as I organized them for the build, and again as I installed them. As I assembled, I was both concerned, and elated. Concerned, because I realized the STUMAC amp I was copying was different than the original schematic.Resistor values were the same, but Capacitor values were clearly diferent. Looking cat the Stumac turret board, starting at the left, and working right, the first cap is 25mf, 50 volts, but I was provided a 25mf, 25 volt cap. This matches the original 5E3 diagram. The next cap in the STUMAC build is 22mf 500volts, I used a 16mf 450 volt here and in the next 2 cap positions, where there were 22mf 500volt in my first build. The next 2 caps were .1mf 600volt,small and yellow, but stumac has the same value , but they are"orange drop" caps, which I have come to may be better quality. Keep in mind, I understand the value of the components, but as for differences in quality, I have no clue. So, closely following the provided schematic, I continued. Once I got the turret board done, I continued and energy thing went ok, until I tried to solder up the power transformer. The diagram provided did not agree with the transformer provided. Uh oh...so I emailed them(through my 3rd party) and they responded the next day, indicating "do not see the wire. Only see the voltage blackcand brown is for 110V. black and blue is forc125V . Which one is good for you? Green yellow green is forc340-0-340V for 5Y3 pins 4 and 6. Yellow black yellow is for 6.3 volts pilot light and filiments. Don't forget to ground the black wire. Black-
White is 5y3 pin 2 and 8." So that was how I wired it up. And I did my usual voltage test, no tubes, then rectifier only, then rectifier and
preamp tubes, and the voltages weren't too far out, except my filiments voltage was way low ( any wonder as it had a 50 ohm resistor to ground + the middle tap was grounded.) A t any rate, I continued, installed the power tubes, and plugged in the speaker, and turned it. No smoke, amp hums, sounds ok, so I plug in my strat. TERRIBLE DISTORTION AT ALL VOLUMES... The long and short is a lesson learned. As I have worked on this project for some time now, I have learned a little bit. First, this is a very accurate reproduction of the original. It is possible that the sound I am experiencing is normal for this build, but not the sound I desire. I have since that time corresponded several times with these people, and been told they can not help me with the distortion issue. I installed another P/T. Also put a 12AY7 in v1, as that is correct for this build. The sound is bettter, but still too over the top for me. Plenty of volume, but no headroom. I have purchased the higher value orange drop caps , and am considering changing them to see what happens. After I replace d the Transformer, and v1 my voltages are almost the same as the other amp. Many thanks to you guys for having this forum. It is super neat to find other people that dig tube amps. And it is wonderful to have the fountain of information and knowledge provided. I will keep plugging along on this ampp, and with time, patience, a little help from my new friends and some luck, I will get there. I think I read something about higher value capacitors smoothing out the sound of an amp, and so far,to me at least, that might be the case. Keep building, oh and I hope what I lack in actual knowledge, is off set by the entertainment value of a guy who can't find a stick in the middle of a forest