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Hoffman Amps Forum image Author Topic: '75 or '80 Ultralinear Super Reverb redplating  (Read 5274 times)

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Offline Eric-NC

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'75 or '80 Ultralinear Super Reverb redplating
« on: October 04, 2022, 03:24:15 pm »
Hi!  I've had this UL Super Reverb for a few years now.  The amp hums quite a bit so, I decided to redo the entire board and wiring.  After getting everything connected, I checked the voltages on pins 3, 4, and 6 of the two 6L6 tubes - it came out as 456v.  When I put the power tubes back in and warmed it up, I immediately saw that it was redplating after hitting the standby.

I did follow the schematics and layout to the T, at least I think.  Here's the layout and pics of my build/rebuild:

Hopefully I didn't kill this amp...


Offline Eric-NC

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Re: '75 or '80 Ultralinear Super Reverb redplating
« Reply #1 on: October 04, 2022, 03:26:08 pm »
Here's the wiring layout

Offline mresistor

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Re: '75 or '80 Ultralinear Super Reverb redplating
« Reply #2 on: October 04, 2022, 05:23:30 pm »
Turning the amp on and in standby   what is the voltage on pin 5 of the 6L6GCs? 


https://el34world.com/charts/Schematics/files/Fender/Fender_twin_reverb_sf_135_schem.pdf
« Last Edit: October 04, 2022, 05:28:42 pm by mresistor »

Offline Eric-NC

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Re: '75 or '80 Ultralinear Super Reverb redplating
« Reply #3 on: October 05, 2022, 09:57:17 am »
0 v.  I'm figuring something is incorrectly wired?

Offline mresistor

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Re: '75 or '80 Ultralinear Super Reverb redplating
« Reply #4 on: October 05, 2022, 10:15:01 am »
I would pull the 6L6s out and not put them back in until you find out where the problem is with the negative bias voltage.


First check to see if the Output tubes matching potentiometer is wired correctly.  You don't show that pot being wired in your drawing.


I'm thinking that the -58v wire is not connected to the potentiometer.

« Last Edit: October 05, 2022, 10:29:41 am by mresistor »

Offline Willabe

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Re: '75 or '80 Ultralinear Super Reverb redplating
« Reply #5 on: October 05, 2022, 02:03:35 pm »
0 v.  I'm figuring something is incorrectly wired?

Set the meter for dcv.

Offline Eric-NC

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Re: '75 or '80 Ultralinear Super Reverb redplating
« Reply #6 on: October 05, 2022, 02:43:27 pm »
Thanks @willabe!

@mresistor - is the -58v wire coming out of the doghouse?  I'm thinking this is the yellow wire as noted in the drawing.

Offline Willabe

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Re: '75 or '80 Ultralinear Super Reverb redplating
« Reply #7 on: October 05, 2022, 11:31:29 pm »
All the layout drawings you posted show 4 power tubes, but the chassis pictures show 2 power tubes. I wrote out instructions for 4 power tubes, but it's the same with 2 power tubes.

@mresistor - is the -58v wire coming out of the doghouse?  I'm thinking this is the yellow wire as noted in the drawing.

Yes, that's it. It goes to the -bias balance pot. In your drawings; PT brown wire is acv bias tap, goes to 1K2 dropping R, then reversed diode, to get -dcv, then blue wire to dog house filter cap board, to 1st 70uF/100v -dcv fliter cap, then 2K2 dropping R, then 2nd 70uF/100v -bias filter cap, then yellow wire to -bias balance pot CT, and also off the balance CT a wire, color not labeled, that goes over to the trem circuit 2M2 R to kick start it. The -bias filter caps, + (positive) end goes to ground because their for a negative dcv supply. 

I would pull the 6L6s out and not put them back in until you find out where the problem is with the negative bias voltage.

First check to see if the Output tubes matching potentiometer is wired correctly.  You don't show that pot being wired in your drawing. I'm thinking that the -58v wire is not connected to the potentiometer.

https://el34world.com/charts/Schematics/files/Fender/Fender_twin_reverb_sf_135_schem.pdf

Turning the amp on and in standby what is the voltage on pin 5 of the 6L6GCs?

Like mresistor wrote, take the power tubes out until you get the -bias working and balanced. And all these measurements can be done with the amp on but in standby mode.

Your amp has a -bias balance pot, not an adjustable -bias pot. So you might need to adjust the -bias balance pot. You may have enough -bias on 1 side = 2 power tubes, but not enough on the other side = other 2 power tubes.

With the power tubes still out and the amp on in standby;

1. Measure for (negative) -dcv directly at pin 5 of each/every power tube socket. What do you get? Post all 4 measurements please.

2. Measure at the -bias pot, B1 and B2 in your drawing. 1st, with the pot turned full clockwise, measure -dcv at B1/B2, then with the pot turned full counter clockwise, measure -dcv at B1/B2, post all 4 measurements please. We're looking for the balance pots -dcv swing.   

3. Now adjust the -bias pot to get B1/B2 as close to each other as you can. B1/B2 feed each of the 2 power tubes pin 5 pairs -bias. Please post the balanced -dcv measurement. 

4. Now double check; with the power tubes still out and the amp on in standby, measure the -bias on the far 2 power tubes at pin 5, closest to the chassis end, then measure the -bias on pin 5 of the other 2 power tubes.

What do you get? Post all 4 measurements please.

If the 4 power tubes are matched, then they should all draw about the same current. When Fender made that amp they were not getting matched tube sets. But they were probably getting tubes that were pretty close in current draw. Close enough so they could find an overall -bias dcv that would keep the hottest tubes from red plating and add a small margin for tube safety. The other colder tubes would just run cooler, but Leo, then CBS, wanted clean, not hot, so it worked. Then they could use a -bias balance pot to balance the output to keep the amp quiet and have a good bass response. (When you balance both sides in a push/pull (PP) amp, it helps give a nice quite, clean(er) output, with good bass/bottom end. As it goes out of balance, you start to loose bass and the output starts to get noisier. The more out of balance, and as the tubes age, the worse these things get.)

Your -bias balance pot could be off, or, your tubes have drifted, or a little of both. That could be why your tube (1 tube?) is red plating. You'll know more after you take some measurements and adjust the balance pot if needed. You probably need new bias caps too, if they haven't been changed yet. What power tubes are in the amp? How old?

And because you'll still need to know how hot or cool the output tubes are running now, even after their balanced, you really should install 1 ohm R's between the power tube cathodes and ground, for easy, safer bias measurements. Our host Doug sells them in his online store. 

But you need to find out where the amp stands as it is now.

Willabe
« Last Edit: October 06, 2022, 01:56:42 am by Willabe »

Offline Eric-NC

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Re: '75 or '80 Ultralinear Super Reverb redplating
« Reply #8 on: October 06, 2022, 02:32:51 pm »
Thanks, Willabe.  Here's the readings:

Pins 5 on both tubes - 0v
B1 and B2 are also both 0v

Yellow wire shows 0v as well

Brown wire connecting to 1.2k is 1.1mV

really odd about the redplating and voltage issues.  I tested pin 6 on both output tubes, 53v in standby.

Offline Willabe

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Re: '75 or '80 Ultralinear Super Reverb redplating
« Reply #9 on: October 06, 2022, 04:25:15 pm »
Somethings wrong. Remember all these readings are dcv. Not acv.

If you really don't have any -dcv on both tube sockets pin 5, then both tubes would red plate.

Starting at the junction of the -bias supply diode and the blue wire measure for -dcv. Then keep going along the -bias circuit path all the way to the -bias balance pot to find where the -dcv stops.

Willabe

Offline Willabe

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Re: '75 or '80 Ultralinear Super Reverb redplating
« Reply #10 on: October 06, 2022, 04:29:57 pm »
I tested pin 6 on both output tubes, 53v in standby.

Pin 6 on 6L6GB/GC tubes has no internal connection. It is often used as a solder lug for 1 end of the screen grid, G2, resistor going to pin 4.

So I think you meant pin 5?

Willabe

Offline Eric-NC

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Re: '75 or '80 Ultralinear Super Reverb redplating
« Reply #11 on: October 06, 2022, 08:18:30 pm »
I have one of the following going on:

Diodes are the wrong way in the rectifier section
My multimeter is set incorrectly - figures, it's a 40 dollar Radio Shack (I thought it was better than my GB)
Doghouse caps are wrong (I went over them ten times).  Don't mind the probe - I'm draining the caps.
Cold solder joint?

Regarding pin 6 and the 53v, I'm attaching a pic...maybe I have the pins incorrectly soldered? 


Offline Eric-NC

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Re: '75 or '80 Ultralinear Super Reverb redplating
« Reply #12 on: October 07, 2022, 10:02:08 am »
I think it may be best for me to sanity check and do a full rewire/resolder.  I'm not seeing 6.3v on the heater/pilot light wires (green - green/yellow).  Could be a bad transformer as well.  I've tested with two different multimeters and am still seeing 0v, although the blue wire to diode junction connection is showing -157 v (could be -dcv?). 



Offline Willabe

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Re: '75 or '80 Ultralinear Super Reverb redplating
« Reply #13 on: October 07, 2022, 10:13:47 am »
If you do a complete rewire, and you want to go with cloth covered wire, you might want to use a different type.
 
The type you used is much more difficult to work with than the push back cloth braid type. You just cut it to length and push the cloth braid back, solder, push the braid back up to the solder connection.

It's also much more flexible, yet will stay where you put it. And the outside diameter, cloth braid, is quit a bit thinner the the wire you used. 

Our host Doug sells it in his online store. I use as many colors as I can. Link below;

https://hoffmanamps.com/MyStore/catalog/parts18.htm

Willabe 
« Last Edit: October 07, 2022, 10:17:06 am by Willabe »

Offline sluckey

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Re: '75 or '80 Ultralinear Super Reverb redplating
« Reply #14 on: October 07, 2022, 10:22:49 am »
I'm not seeing 6.3v on the heater/pilot light wires (green - green/yellow).
That would mean all tubes would be cold. Redplating would be impossible. Maybe take a look at your meter user's manual.
A schematic, layout, and hi-rez pics are very useful for troubleshooting your amp. Don't wait to be asked. JUST DO IT!

Offline Eric-NC

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Re: '75 or '80 Ultralinear Super Reverb redplating
« Reply #15 on: October 07, 2022, 10:24:39 am »
just confirmed that I am getting -157 dcv on the blue wire to diode junction.  Brown to 1.2K resistor is 0v.

Offline sluckey

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Re: '75 or '80 Ultralinear Super Reverb redplating
« Reply #16 on: October 07, 2022, 10:34:31 am »
just confirmed that I am getting -157 dcv on the blue wire to diode junction.  Brown to 1.2K resistor is 0v.
Maybe 157mV. Def not 157Vdc! And the voltage on the brown wire is AC volts.

If you can't untangle this simple bias voltage wiring error, then a complete rewire will likely not help. You'll probably make the same mistake. The bias circuit is very critical but it's also probably the simplest circuit in the amp, other than the pilot lamp.
A schematic, layout, and hi-rez pics are very useful for troubleshooting your amp. Don't wait to be asked. JUST DO IT!

Offline Willabe

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Re: '75 or '80 Ultralinear Super Reverb redplating
« Reply #17 on: October 07, 2022, 10:39:02 am »
just confirmed that I am getting -157 dcv on the blue wire to diode junction.  Brown to 1.2K resistor is 0v.

The brown wire from the PT to the 1K2 R will have acv, not dcv there. Only dcv AFTER the reversed biased diode.

And -157 dcv seems too high for a Fender bias tap. Shouldn't be more than ~ -60dcv to -70dcv at the diode/blue wire. 

Follow the -bias path I wrote out for you;

In your drawings; PT brown wire is acv bias tap, goes to 1K2 dropping R, then reversed diode, to get -dcv, then blue wire to dog house filter cap board, to 1st 70uF/100v -dcv fliter cap, then 2K2 dropping R, then 2nd 70uF/100v -bias filter cap, then yellow wire to -bias balance pot CT, and also off the balance CT a wire, color not labeled, that goes over to the trem circuit 2M2 R to kick start it. The -bias filter caps, + (positive) end goes to ground because their for a negative dcv supply.

Measure for -dcv at every junction along the path until you find where the -dcv stops.

  Willabe
« Last Edit: October 07, 2022, 11:28:48 am by Willabe »

Offline Willabe

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Re: '75 or '80 Ultralinear Super Reverb redplating
« Reply #18 on: October 07, 2022, 10:47:39 am »
Regarding pin 6 and the 53v, I'm attaching a pic...maybe I have the pins incorrectly soldered?

The 5w 470 ohm R is the screen grid/G2 resistor. In the power tube socket picture shows that R 's right end soldered to pin 6, it's left end is soldered to pin 4, that's right. There should be ~420 to 440dcv on that R at pins 4 and 6. It should not have any -dcv on pins 4 and 6.

The carbon comp, brown body with colored bands, 1K5 (?) R is the power tube grid stopper/G1. It has 1 end soldered between the screen grid R. That is pin 5. Measure for -dcv at pin 5.
« Last Edit: October 07, 2022, 10:50:28 am by Willabe »

Offline Willabe

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Re: '75 or '80 Ultralinear Super Reverb redplating
« Reply #19 on: October 07, 2022, 10:59:12 am »
You should read this and re read it until you understand it.

From Merlin's web site on bias supplies;

http://www.valvewizard.co.uk/bias.html

Offline pdf64

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Re: '75 or '80 Ultralinear Super Reverb redplating
« Reply #20 on: October 07, 2022, 11:12:02 am »
... I'm not seeing 6.3v on the heater/pilot light wires (green - green/yellow)...
Meter set for AC volts?
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Offline Eric-NC

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Re: '75 or '80 Ultralinear Super Reverb redplating
« Reply #21 on: October 07, 2022, 12:05:29 pm »
Now it is...my fault.  I had it on the wrong voltage setting. 

Offline mresistor

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Re: '75 or '80 Ultralinear Super Reverb redplating
« Reply #22 on: October 07, 2022, 12:27:32 pm »
Hi Eric,  may I suggest you get a better multimeter like this  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B089NSPHFK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Although we don't know what kind/model of meter you have, this one is cheap and good.  Being competent with the test equipment is a must.


Also there is a thread here on a Bassman 135 that has pictures you can see, like of the doghouse and HV filter capacitors and how they are wired.  At least is is unmolested and you see how the factory did it.
I would download and save those pictures, even thought it's a bassman it is pretty much identical to your amp only without the tremolo and reverb (the middle part of the preamp board.  In the future if you are tackling a more complex amp it is advisable to take pictures of it prior to dismantling, in addition to your drawings they can help.  I wonder why the bias circuit wasn't drawn out. As Sluckey mentioned it is vitally important to the amp, and not complex. It would have been important to change the color on the bias voltage wire coming from the doghouse to identify instead of white. Fender used orange on that Bassman.


If I were near you I would assist in person in restoring this amp, but alas I am CO.  It appears you are in North Carolina.  Maybe there is someone else here that can assist in person.  The amp chassis can be boxed up and shipped and many here are skilled at restoration of Fender amps. 




Offline Eric-NC

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Re: '75 or '80 Ultralinear Super Reverb redplating
« Reply #23 on: October 07, 2022, 01:37:57 pm »
Fixed the issue - surprised I didn't blow the amp up.  I had the blue going to ground and black 1 attached to the diode junction  :embarrassed:

I'm getting -71 dcv on pin 5 now.  I'm thinking this should be down to -50?

Offline Willabe

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Re: '75 or '80 Ultralinear Super Reverb redplating
« Reply #24 on: October 07, 2022, 10:06:36 pm »
Here's a great way to double check your wiring on a build;

https://el34world.com/Forum/index.php?topic=17701.0

Offline Eric-NC

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Re: '75 or '80 Ultralinear Super Reverb redplating
« Reply #25 on: October 10, 2022, 09:50:58 am »
This is great, thanks!

 


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