> a posted suggestion to use a 12AT7 instead of a 12AX7 as a power tube.
12AX7, 0.1W if you sweat it. 12AT7, about 0.3W for both sections, and not too fussy about load.
Fine bedroom amps. Not stage amps, not even when you go to the fat 12AU7 then up to the modestly bigger 12BH7 and double-up. You want a shovel, not a bigger spoon.
Size aside, there "are" ways. 6J6 is very cheap. If heater-power were cheap, you could array a dozen 6J6 and make some Power. Or with more than a few 12BH7 or 6J6 it may make sense to use a few as a Transformer-Coupled driver, run the power tubes in AB2 (grid current). Although working triodes above zero-grid does very much the same thing as adding a Screen Grid, except doing the extra push with audio power instead of simple DC power.
Are you sure you want Triode?
Historically, pentodes with overall NFB give much of the effect of triodes with greater efficiency. And, because pentodes work so well, we find a much larger selection.
Triode power-amps are mellow. Electric guitar needs more flavor.
> 6B4G... might fit
Oh, bah, that's not the way to go "tight". Take fer instance 6EM7. 'Bout the size of 6V6. Has a fat triode and a high-gain triode in one. A pair of bottles at ~~270V in 10K load is a complete 8 Watt push-pull (albeit at 50% more heater power than say 2*6V6 and a 12AT7).
I mentioned AB2 operation. '53/6A6/6N7 twin triode has specs for 10 Watts output per bottle. The drawback is that this needs 20mA grid current on positive peaks with no current on negative peaks: R-C coupling can't be used. (6J6 is kind a small '53 in new bottle.)