BFTR Project

[Guitarzan]

Hi guys.
Jane left the treehouse long enough for me to get some work done on the BFTR. My pix of the chassis as I found it are posted under the topic "Filter cap board" or something like that. Anyway, I got 'er cleaned up pretty well and decided to brush the whole inside of the chassis since it had some pretty bad rust spots. I want to be able to lay a little blob of solder anywhere I maight need to and have it actually stick. I used a torch to get all of the old solder out in a hurry. I just torched each solder spot long enough to melt it and then bonked the chassis on the concrete floor and moved on to the next one. I had a pretty good collection of solder splatters when I was done but didn't get the chassis hot enough to cause any warpage or anything. In fact, it was cool enough to handle almost immediatedly. So here are some new pix for anyone who actually gives a shizzle. Sorry about the poor quality. I'll have to find my camera. My phone just ain't cutting it for picture taking.
-d {8^)

[eleventeen]

Looks like a reasonably recent TR...what's the background on how you decided to strip it to the sheet metal?

[Ed_Chambley]

Lookin spiffy.

[Willabe]

I used a torch to get all of the old solder out in a hurry. I just torched each solder spot long enough to melt it and then bonked the chassis on the concrete floor and moved on to the next one.

You haven't taught the monkey to do that for you yet?



            Brad     

[Guitarzan]

The monkey needs a cattle prod just to take the effing garbage out.
If you look at the pix I posted here http://www.el34world.com/Forum/index.php?topic=16241.msg158789#msg158789 you'll see what I started with. It was pretty rough.
So rather than work with it as is, I decided to get a small parts kit from Mojotone and a faceplate from overseas and blackface it.

[Willabe]

The monkey needs a cattle prod just to take the effing garbage out.

That's what my wife has to do to get me to take out the garbage sometimes too.    

Yeah it was a mess. Looks real good now. Gonna be a great build.

The 5E3 build you posted a pic of looks great!


           Brad       

[eleventeen]

Aha, now I remember. Yeah...most of us have seen those in that condition and worse, and there is something about SF Fenders that when they get to that state they look really, really narly. Not sure I would have done what you did...because as bad as all that looks...it was probably not very far from working. The dented/tweaked chassis is a consideration, though.

Nevertheless.....you're committed now!

Keep us apprised!

[Guitarzan]

Yeah, I did think about that. I'll bet it could have been resurrected but that guy I used to correspond with said "You oughtta blackfce it" when I first copped it. I'm pretty sure he meant to modify all the existing stuff to blackface specs but then he suddenly decided to stop talking to me so I lost my main sounding board when it comes to this stuff. Then I took a good look at the water damage, the filth, the missing rectifier, the choke that was cannibalized, the toggle switches that were bashed in and broken, and even then I thought, I could empty a coupla cans of deoxit into this thing and clean it up but I finally decided that I'd just start from scratch. Like I've said in a couple of other posts, I'm not really very savvy in this arena. All of those amps I built were, for me, like painting by numbers. I just happen to be very handy working with my hands and am better than the average vine swinger at following directions. That's how I'm able to manage some pretty decent looking final products. I can read a schemo but not as good as I should be able to. I'm much better with the layout diagrams. If I had to actually shoot trouble on an amp as complicated as a Twin Reverb I'd be very close to being completely lost. I'd be screaming for help all over the place as evidenced by my having trouble with most basic of electrical concepts with that filter cap board issue I started this thread with in the first place. So you can pretty much count on hearing from me with more than just updates. When I fire it up it better act right the first time or I'll be calling out for help. That Guitarzan yodel that brings out all of the elephants and lions and even Jane the monkey.
I did actually power up that power tranny before I spent a lot of time cleaning and repainting it. It checked out according to specs per my digital multimeter. Also, the JBLs I copped for a song must be recones. The seller didn't mention that but I guess it's possible he didn't know it. Anyway, it works out well for me because one of them was originally a 16 ohm speaker and the other was an 8 ohm. When I got them out of the box I took my meter to them right off the bat and got readings closer to what an 8 ohm speaker usually reads. 6.7 or so. Something like that anyway, so with them wired in parallel my meter tells me that It's gonna be a 3.4 ohm load so that should be perfect for the stock output tranny. OK. Writing a book here. Gotta break that habit. Sorry about being so freaking verbose.

[Guitarzan]

BTW,
My offer stands about the old stuff being up for grabs. The old filter cap board, the main fiberboard loaded with all of that vintage stuff, the pots, anything you guys might want you can have. I would suggest that you send me a self addressed flat-rate priority mail box of the appropriate size and I'll send it back with whatever parts you want from the old amp. Minus of course the irons. But anything I'm not gonna reuse will end up in parts purgatory around here. 1st come 1st served.

[eleventeen]

Good story!

I sure wish I could buy all the $600 Twin Reverbs for sale around here, chainsaw them in half, and get two Deluxes out of them. Used to be "had to be a Twin" for me. Now I really, really don't need to lift them nor do I need the volume level. At one time I owned three of them.

[Guitarzan]

I used to have a an Ampeg V-4 and 3...count 'em 3, 4/12 bottoms plus a VT-22 combo which is the exact same chassis as the V-4 only it's in a 2/12 combo configuration. It was truly a sight to behold when I had all of that crap stacked up in a huge wall of tube amp enormity. Prolly why I have a bunch of rods and nuts & bolts holding my spine together now. That's fourteen 12" speakers and 200 watts of Ampegosity. Oh yeah and I also have an artificial hip to go with the other hardware. Paying for my idiocy of youth I suppose. On some of our biggest gigs (maybe 1500 people) I couldn't turn that Ampeg with one bottom or I guess what you'd call a half stack past about 4 without having people saying "Turn that ^%!@$~ guitar down!" I was ready tho, in case Shea Stadium called.
Now I'm lucky to still be able to lift my Champ clone. I don't know what I'll do when I get this Twin Reverb finished. I know I can't lift it. I'm building it for a benefit auction for a local musician who needs surgery and can't pay for it so I suppose someone will step up and do the heavy lifting for me.

[HotBluePlates]

... Also, the JBLs I copped for a song must be recones. ... one of them was originally a 16 ohm speaker and the other was an 8 ohm. When I got them out of the box I took my meter to them right off the bat and got readings closer to what an 8 ohm speaker usually reads. 6.7 or so. ...

They may be reconed, or they may not. A good clear picture of the front and the code on the backside of the cone would probably tell for sure.

In spite of having a good original-cone 16Ω D-130, I didn't know until tonight that all of the early D-130's were 8Ω regardless of what the label said. That tid-bit came up in another thread, and the source of the info started working at JBL in the late-50's and designed the D-130F.

[Guitarzan]

They may be reconed, or they may not. A good clear picture of the front and the code on the backside of the cone would probably tell for sure.

In spite of having a good original-cone 16Ω D-130, I didn't know until tonight that all of the early D-130's were 8Ω regardless of what the label said. That tid-bit came up in another thread, and the source of the info started working at JBL in the late-50's and designed the D-130F.

WOW! that's great to hear. A fantastic bit of insider info for sure. Y'know, the fronts were immaculate and the backs a bit dusty as though they'd been in some kind of enclosure for years. the aluminum dust caps are perfect and with the impedance discrepancy from the label I just assumed redone but what bothered me was that the gaskets were rotted and in need of replacement which I did right away. At the same time I was thinking, "What reputable speaker reconing service would put new voice coils, cones, and dustcaps on these and make them look like the day they came out of the factory and leave the rotten cork gaskets?"
I'll post pix of the fronts and then numbers on the backs of the cones in the morning. Jane and the monkey are already snoring the bark off of the tree and I'm not far behind them.
-d {8^)

[Willabe]

plus a VT-22 combo which is the exact same chassis as the V-4 only it's in a 2/12 combo configuration.

That's said to be a great amp. How did you think it sounded/played?

Mic Taylor had 1 in the Stones.


            Brad     

[Guitarzan]

Hiya Brad!
It sounded great! It had loads of clean headroom and I mean LOADS of it. It was really more amp than I ever needed but in those days bigger was always better. I bought the original V-4 with the 4/12 bottom brand new in '77 off the showroom floor. I gigged with it for several years then continued to play it at home for decades. In the early days of eBay I found the VT-22 for $400.00 and discovered it was the exact same amp in combo form. You could slide the chassis outta one and into the other in five minutes or less. Same hardware, same bolt holes and everything. It had a distortion channel that let you get some great distortion with out blowing out the windows and a reverb that was endlessly drippy. I loved that amp. The only bad thing about it was the weight. The cobmo weighs in at around 70 or 80 pounds and the half stack is even worse. The head weighs about 60 or 70 pounds and that 4/12 bottom is just as bad. The eBay VT-22 had been modded with a master volume control. Dunno why someone would have done that since you could get all the overdrive you wanted with the distortion channel but it was what it was.
-dale {8^)

[Willabe]

It's said that Taylor used a VT-22 for the Get Yer YaYah's Out live album.

Tone Quest Report mag. bought an old 1 and did a review a while back. They loved it! Supposed to be around 60w? My BF SR (4x10") was plenty loud so if the VT-22 (4x10") was 60w then I'd bet it does have plenty of nice clean headroom. It's 2x7027's, right?   


          Brad     

[Guitarzan]

Nope. EXACT same amp as the V-4
four 7027s at pretty close to 120 watts.

[Guitarzan]

Brad,
Not sure which Ampeg you're thinking about but my VT-22 had 2 12" speakers as per the Schemo I posted. Or you could use the 4/12 bottom with the V-4 head version. The same chassis, same hardware, and even the bolt holes lined up. You could slide the chassis out of the combo and into the head or vice versa in 5 minutes or less. Take off the back panel and then 4- 1/4"-20TPI Phillips head screws held in there. The whole works was shock mouted in the chassis with those rubber shock mounts you sometimes see on big blowers.

[sluckey]

Any progress on the TR?

[Guitarzan]

Hiya slukey
Yeah, I got all of the tube sockets in and now I'm just trying to remember which way the trannies were pointed when I took 'em out. I have all of the grommets in place for the wires to come thru, and ....duh! The layout should show where the wires come thru and even if it doesn't I have the "before" pix! I got that stuff done on Saturday but then had to go to my neighbor's gig on Saturday from 3-7. The club owner wanted to try out using a popular local band to bring in more bidniss during the afternoon so I wanted to be sure and support that effort with my attendance. I started to head down there to work on it yesterday before football started but then we had some pretty heavy rain come thru here and I noticed that even tho I rearranged the way my downspouts work and put long extensions on the bottoms of 'em to drain the water as far away as possible, the gutters seemed to be plugged. In between the scattered showers I went out and tried shoving my fish tape up the downspout, but then I noticed that whole gutter seems to be full of leaves so I never got back to the BFTR at all yeasterday. So today, I have one of those jet spray nozzles rigged up on the end of my pole pruner and I'm blasting the leaves out with that. It's working pretty good but it's cumbersome and my back can't take more than about 10-15 minutes of that crap at a time so it's gonna take me a while. I got my camera out and checked the card & found some pix of some builds that have gone to homes elsewhere I was going to get some clear shots of my progress so far and pix of those JBLs too. It looks like it's gonna be a while tho. Y'know what? On second thought, I'll go down and take the pix now and post 'em before I swing over to that treehouse gutter project. That one's easy, only takes a coupla minutes, and doesn't kill me to accomplish. Stand by man and I'll post some pix shortly.
Thanks for asking BTW...
-d {8^)

[Guitarzan]

Progress so far. I know it isn't a lot but the weekend sort of got in the way. I did get my camera unpacked and it takes better pix than my phone does so a couple may be redundant. I think the repro faceplace is pretty decent looking. The back plate is from the SFTR and is original to the amp as far as I know. How it didn't get damaged like the front did is anybody's guess.

[Willabe]

My mistake it was a GT-40.  VT40.

Chassis is looking real good.


          Brad    


Edit;  VT not GT.     

[Guitarzan]

Thanks man,
I'll be making some serious progress on the next push. I'll post pix when I do.
I'm glad you finally got the Ampeg thing figured out. I'm not much with the Fender stuff but I know my V-4/VT-22. I owned it for about 35 years. I knew I wasn't going crazy when it came to what that thing was. I first came to appreciate the Ampegs when the guy from my first band, I was about 12, the year was like 1968 and big Al, my buddy's older brother let us into his band. We covered the same stuff I've been covering ever since. Cream, Blind Faith, The Doors, Tommy James and the Shondells, The Buckinghams, and I could go on and on. Al had a B-15 fliptop that he played the Farfisa MiniCom thru that I actually own to this day. Not the fliptop but the Farfisa. Al gave it me to back in about '85 and died a couple of yeras later. He had a minicompact that I have now and a combocompact which was very close to the same thing as the minicom. I don't know the difference really or whatever happened to the one I didn't get. His brother didn't get it I know that much for sure. I also have a LeSage acoustic/electric piano. I just rewired the V&T pots on that thing and it sound great thru my deluxe. It actually has a couple of single coil pickups in it that work exactly like an electric guitar  but it's also big enough to play acoustic. The pickups are similar to the Seymore Duncan Hot Rails. Only the one that covers the upper register is about 2 1/2' long and the one covering the lower register is maybe 14" long. They are wired to a single volume/tone/input setup like a Teisco or something. It doesn't hum and it sounds fantastic amplified, and fills a small room nicely when playing in the house sans any amplification.

[Guitarzan]

Any progress on the TR?

Well, I started working on the main board. I started on the input end and am working my way across to the P.T. end. I'm about 1/3 of the way across and it's taking me forever. Wow! This no Champ or Deluxe I'm messing with here. I'm beginning to feel like it'll be a miracle if this thing works once I'm done. I know I will have far more anxiety with this one when I apply power to it for the first time than I ever had with anything else. YIKES!  
I must say tho, Mojotone really puts that small parts kit together nicely. It would be taking me at least 3 or 4 times as long to do this if they'd have just sent me a bag fulla stuff and good luck sorting it out.

[Guitarzan]

Well, I knew it wouldn't take long before I'd run into something that I can't figure out. I've gone over the documentation and stared at these papers until I'm, crosseyed but the answer still eludes me. If you take a look at the node that is connected to pin 6 on the 1st preamp tube, it's very simple, There a 100k resistor and a .047uF orange drop soldered to that point too. Now follow that .047 OD to the other point at which it's soldered and you'll see what looks like the designation for a short hidden wire with a little box with an "X" in it. There are "Y"s and "Z"s too if you look around for 'em.  Here's the link to the layout. http://mojotone.com/Amp%20Kit%20Schematics%20and%20Wiring%20Diagrams/Blackface%20Kits/MK-TR-WD.pdf?ck=a9_ck3u-AXgxHlMM&vid=a9_e8Ta-AT-KsO6V&cktime=114316&gc=clear For some reason I can't save it in the correct orientation so if you have to manipulate the thing anyway, You might as well get it from the source.

Is that supposed to be where the wires on the back of the fiber board all connect up? Any node that has an "X" next to it is wired to every other node that marked with and "X" and same goes with the "Y"s and "Z"s? I may have just answered my own question here but sometimes in the morning things become clearer than they were the night before after a few hours of being hunched over that thing and trying to do a tidy job of it.

Please and thanks as always
-dale {8^)

[HotBluePlates]

Underboard wires.  Sluckey's right, above-board.

X connects to X (there's only 2 of them on the board).
Y connects to Y (same)
Z connects to Z (same)

If you look at both the schematic and the layout, you can follow the lines from the input jack through every component and connection to the speaker.

I know most of us just work from a layout, because it seems easier as a physical representation. It greatly helps to be comfortable translating from the schematic to the layout. Connection errors on the schematic are obvious; the same error might not be easy to spot in a layout.

That's the same reason folks get stumped by their own wiring errors when a new build doesn't work properly.

[Ed_Chambley]

Guitarzan, you mentioned getting the faceplate from "overseas".  Where?  Did you order from the Tube Amp Doctor.  I was wondering if you are in the states what it cost to buy one and have it shipped.

[sluckey]

Will you be using a flexible fiber board like those found in the original Fenders? If so, look at this pic of a Deluxe Reverb. I have a pic of the TR also but it's not hi rez. The DR and TR board are nearly identical. The X,Y, Z, and D jumpers are the same. Anyhow, what I wanted to point out is that those particular wires are routed on top of the board rather than underneath. Could make a difference. Probably not.

[Guitarzan]

Guitarzan, you mentioned getting the faceplate from "overseas".  Where?  Did you order from the Tube Amp Doctor.  I was wondering if you are in the states what it cost to buy one and have it shipped.

It was $105.82 plus my bank charged me a currency conversion fee of $0.22 so it was roughly 106 bux. Oh, and yes it was Tube Amp Doctor. To my knowledge, they're the only ones you can get 'em from. Thanks to our administration bugging the phone of the German Chancellor, my guess is that they'll remain available for the foreseeable future. TAD didn't even tag my account for their payment until after I'd actually received the goods. Most places don't charge you until they ship and I don't know if this was S.O.P. for the folks at TAD but y'know how slow the USPS is at updating their tracking system? I've had stuff arrive at its destination while the USPS tracking service still said "the post office has been notified that label was generated blah BLAH!" So anyway I'd had it for a day or two before it showed up as a debit in my online bank statement. Also, the German tracking system made timely entries from the time TAD printed the label until it left the country. Then it just said "transferred to the USPS" or something like that until a day or two after it arrived. No updates from the USPS tracking system at all. They claim they're working on that but, I'll believe it when I see it. The destination was 53405 in the U.S.

[Ed_Chambley]

Guitarzan, you mentioned getting the faceplate from "overseas".  Where?  Did you order from the Tube Amp Doctor.  I was wondering if you are in the states what it cost to buy one and have it shipped.

It was $105.82 plus my bank charged me a currency conversion fee of $0.22 so it was roughly 106 bux. Oh, and yes it was Tube Amp Doctor. To my knowledge, they're the only ones you can get 'em from. Thanks to our administration bugging the phone of the German Chancellor, my guess is that they'll remain available for the foreseeable future. TAD didn't even tag my account for their payment until after I'd actually received the goods. Most places don't charge you until they ship and I don't know if this was S.O.P. for the folks at TAD but y'know how slow the USPS is at updating their tracking system? I've had stuff arrive at its destination while the USPS tracking service still said "the post office has been notified that label was generated blah BLAH!" So anyway I'd had it for a day or two before it showed up as a debit in my online bank statement. Also, the German tracking system made timely entries from the time TAD printed the label until it left the country. Then it just said "transferred to the USPS" or something like that until a day or two after it arrived. No updates from the USPS tracking system at all. They claim they're working on that but, I'll believe it when I see it. The destination was 53405 in the U.S.

Thanks!
I have heard they are just like the originals and that all the holes line up with well with the original chassis.  Yours looks very nice.  Just got a working silver MV twin cheap.  It is really one of the bad ones, but it can be nice.  I have to check, but I think you can just use the Black Faceplate and everything will line up and cover the old master hole.  I tried some neo magnet Celestions in my real Black Face and it sounds great.  Still need the casters, but it makes a BIG difference in weight.

[Guitarzan]

Will you be using a flexible fiber board like those found in the original Fenders? If so, look at this pic of a Deluxe Reverb. I have a pic of the TR also but it's not hi rez. The DR and TR board are nearly identical. The X,Y, Z, and D jumpers are the same. Anyhow, what I wanted to point out is that those particular wires are routed on top of the board rather than underneath. Could make a difference. Probably not.

Yeah, my looks roughly like that one and had jumpers, black & white twisted like that, run on the surface as well. Take a look at the picture from the instruction manual though:

Crazy huh? So far, the ones that actually show up as  a hidden wire on the layout, I have been putting on the top of the board. It's not that I need the room cuz they gave be a backer piece of fiberboard and I always put a 1/4" spacer ibetween them, so I have all the room in the world in there. I just do that to protect against something conductive getting between the back of the fiberboard and the chassis. I like to use nylon standoffs and attach the board (especially a flexible eyelet board) in 4 places if possible. I have some fiberglass turret boards that are really thick and quite stuff. I imagine that they're very stable as well and have used then on a couple of Champ builds and only attached then in 2 spots. I still got some of that dark gray fiber gasket material you get in rolls (usually in the automotive dept.) for preety cheap and made my own backer for it and used contact cement to attach it to the chassis before bolting the turret board in with the standoffs. Anyway, since I have the room to put the wires on the top of the eyelet board I figure I might as well.
Inserting the picture didn't work so here it is, the regular way, at the end of the post.

[Guitarzan]

Thanks!
I have heard they are just like the originals and that all the holes line up with well with the original chassis.  Yours looks very nice.  Just got a working silver MV twin cheap.  It is really one of the bad ones, but it can be nice.  I have to check, but I think you can just use the Black Faceplate and everything will line up and cover the old master hole.  I tried some neo magnet Celestions in my real Black Face and it sounds great.  Still need the casters, but it makes a BIG difference in weight.

It was/is perfect. All of the holes do line up and it simply covers the master volume hole but it says Fender Electric Instrument Company, Fullerton, Ca. or whatever the age appropriate verbage is there and has the Fender Script Logo and everything. If you scroll around thru these posts of mine I did post pics of it atr some point. The rear plate is the original '77 and how it remained nearly flawless when the rest of that thing was completely trashed is just short of a miracle

[Ed_Chambley]

Thanks!
I have heard they are just like the originals and that all the holes line up with well with the original chassis.  Yours looks very nice.  Just got a working silver MV twin cheap.  It is really one of the bad ones, but it can be nice.  I have to check, but I think you can just use the Black Faceplate and everything will line up and cover the old master hole.  I tried some neo magnet Celestions in my real Black Face and it sounds great.  Still need the casters, but it makes a BIG difference in weight.

It was/is perfect. All of the holes do line up and it simply covers the master volume hole but it says Fender Electric Instrument Company, Fullerton, Ca. or whatever the age appropriate verbage is there and has the Fender Script Logo and everything. If you scroll around thru these posts of mine I did post pics of it atr some point. The rear plate is the original '77 and how it remained nearly flawless when the rest of that thing was completely trashed is just short of a miracle

Yep, I did notice that.  I just got the amp yesterday and already have someone wanting it blackfaced like you are doing.   It is a little rough, but mainly the tolex.  I put new tolex and appropriate grill cloth and it will look just like a new 66 twin.

Great work you are doing.

[Guitarzan]

I got a SFTR cabinet minus the legs and grill logo. Thank goodness it has wheels cuz those JBLs I loaded in there have already got it way too heavy for me to lift. I was considering redoing the tolex on it but I took some scrubbing bubbles and a plastic "steel wool" scrubber and got it looking almost like new. There's some paint splatter on it like someone was using a roller to paint the room it was in and didn't bother to cover it, but no tears. A lot of that came off. I think if I give it one more really good scrubbing, I'll be able to get all of that paint off and then the thing will actually look almost as good as if I went thru all of that time, effort and expense to recover it. It's going to be too close to justify going thru that nightmare. I already had some new corners in stock so a handle, set of legs, and logo will be pert'near good enough. I think that considering how good it looks I'm going to have to replace the grill cloth. I cleaned really well but even with all of the smoke schmutz and other filth out of it, it is unfortunately faded pretty badly. No amount of cleaning is gonna fix that. Too bad too cuz I don't recall seeing any snags or tears in it. Save for the faded, decrepit tube chart it could end up looking pretty doggone close to mint. So I guess I'll have to bite the bullet and get a piece of grill cloth for it and add that to the project. Then with new corners, handle, logo, and legs it will look minty for sure.
If you add up everything I've bought for this project to date, I have between $600.00 and $650.00 in it. Closer to $600 really. I paid almost as much for that faceplate as I did for the cabinet.

[Guitarzan]

Underboard wires.
X connects to X (there's only 2 of them on the board).
Y connects to Y (same)
Z connects to Z (same)
If you look at both the schematic and the layout, you can follow the lines from the input jack through every component and connection to the speaker.

I know most of us just work from a layout, because it seems easier as a physical representation. It greatly helps to be comfortable translating from the schematic to the layout. Connection errors on the schematic are obvious; the same error might not be easy to spot in a layout.
That's the same reason folks get stumped by their own wiring errors when a new build doesn't work properly.

OK, I have another one for ya. I see the Y=Y and Z=Z thing, but there are some others that have me perplexed. As you look at the layout and I'll post it again here: http://mojotone.com/Amp%20Kit%20Schematics%20and%20Wiring%20Diagrams/Blackface%20Kits/MK-TR-WD.pdf?ck=a9_cky2-Aen-aQbY&vid=a9_e8Ta-AT-KsO6V&cktime=114224&gc=clear so you don't have to hunt for it, so as you look at the right side, there are those 2 100k resistors soldered in a sort of "Y" shape to a node with a little box with a "D" in it. than as you move to the left there are 2 more 100k resistors soldered again in a sort of "Y" shape, again to node marked "D". Here's the part that throws me, at the top of board and half way between the 2 "D" nodes, there's a couple of straight lines drawn as though they're coming out of a hole in the fiberboard in a big "V" shape with a box on the end of each line containing "D" again. No points to solder to or anything, just a couple of lines that converge in a hole in the fiberboard and end in mid air with boxes on the ends and "D"s in them. What do I do with those? I don't understand what that represents on the drawing. Please and thanks as always fellas. That problem and the holiday slowed me up a bit. I hope to finish that fiberboard today or tomorrow. Although I have an appontment to be fitted for a bone stimulator tomorrow. It seems my spinal fusion doesn't seem to want to take. That's why I'm still in so much pain. So, with a little luck, this new device with get things back on track. I really don't want anymore surgeries.

[Willabe]

You need to look at both the layout drawing and the circuit drawing.

Their leaving a few wires out in the layout drawing so it doesn't get too cluttered.

Look at this drawing and look for the B, C, D in little boxes in the B+ rail and where they go to in the circuit.

http://www.el34world.com/charts/Schematics/files/fender/TWIN_REVERB_AB763.pdf


            Brad   

 

[Guitarzan]

Hiya Brad,
So then these are the A,B,C, & D nodes from the filter cap board?

[Willabe]

Hi Zan.

Well in that drawing I posted, B, C and D are B+ power supply nodes. A and E are cathode connections where 2 cathodes are sharing a resistor/cap.

            Brad