First, the "figure factor" of a perfect full wave rectifier is >1.41<, not 1.14.
You'd get that with a diode rectifier, they are pretty close to perfect, only dropping .7 volts each which is nothing in the realm of 350 volts.
A 5Y3 "loses" considerable volts across the tube. It is among the "lossier" of common rectifier tubes. GZ34's and 5V4's not only lose much less, they have the indirectly heated cathode which delays the onset of full B+ for a bit.
Tube Type DC mA PIV FIL AMPS Max ACV DCV DCV DROP
Diode Rectifier 425
5AR4 / GZ-34 250 1500 1.9 450 415 10
5V4-GA 175 1400 2 375 400 25
GZ37 350 1000 2.8 450 388 37
5U4-GA 250 1550 3 450 381 44
5U4-G 225 1550 3 450 381 44
5U4-GB 275 1550 3 450 375 50
5Y3-G/GA 125 1400 2 350 365 60
5R4GYB 250 3100 2 900 362 63
5R4G/GY/GYA 250 3100 2 750 358 67
Point being, if you start with 330-0-330 you should have 1.4 * 330 = 462 and lose 60 volts w/your 5Y3 should put you right in the 400 volt zone. Of course, line voltage variation (usually highish) and strength of your 5Y3 can affect things, the line volts more and more often influential. That 400 is easily +/- 20 volts. My experience w/5Y3 which I use a lot because I have a lot of them is that they are bit closer to a 50 volts drop.