The chassis are here

[SILVERGUN]

That's a pretty cool and unique design you've got there Ken!

Nice use of the new chassis, and really nice end result on the original amp....
Thanks for the schematic.

Just a thought.....that third octal hole you're about to cover up would make a nice spot for a 50/50 cap can.

[Ken Moon]

Good idea! I could put the 2 sides of the 50/50 in parallel for a 100uF reservoir, and easily open up one side to see if I can hear any difference between 50uF and 100uF.

Or, I could use a 50uF/Choke/50uF setup, and put the  preamp B+ filters downstream, closer to the preamp tubes.

I might even be able to put the choke on the inside of the chassis, in the spot Doug uses for the cap can on the Stout. That would keep the PT/rectifier/reservoir cap loop super small.

This chassis has a lot of possibilities - my thanks to Doug for making them available 

[EL34]

They are pretty cool
Glad you guys are off and running with ideas for them


here's what I did with mine
I fired it up yesterday and it sounds really good through my 4x12 marshall cab

[kagliostro]

that is reeeeally coool   


Franco

[DummyLoad]

nice looking amp doug!


--pete

[EL34]

Thanks guys
I'll be taking some good close up pics and posting the build info soon

[MakerDP]

Here's a pic of the new chassis with 18watt iron (the choke is a Mojo 6V6 amp choke, it looks just like the Weber W02299. The Heyboer HY02299 (open coil, 9H/120mA/125R) will also fit the mounting holes.

I'm going to start with a 6V6 version of the DaisyCutter by Randy Fay (Phaez Amps), with the obvious changes to use 6V6s:


I'll be putting it in a heads-up combo similar to this old prototype cab:

with cosmetics that look something like this (different front panel of course)

I'll post progress (and probably some questions) in a separate build log post.

Happy Thanksgiving, all 

Hey Mr. Moon! Start your build thread already! I want to ask you some questions about this without hijacking this thread! 

I am re-purposing a Peavey Classic 30 and was thinking about putting a 6V6 DaisyCutter in there instead. But I really like your cabinet design and this chassis would be perfect (unless I decide to do a two-channel design instead.)

[EL34]

The lamp hole on these chassis was designed for the 120 vac neon lamp assembly on this page
http://hoffmanamps.com/MyStore/catalog/parts20.htm



I just found out that after I installed the 40x20x20x20 cap can in my chassis that there is not any room for that lamp
It is too long by about .25 inch
I did not think to check the depth on those neon lamps
I wanted to make the chassis hole small so it would accept the nice chrome LED I sell but Andy wanted it larger so they could use the Neon lamp
I don't have a lamp option at this time



I may cut one of the Neon lamps in half to make it short and then pop in one of the clear led's I sell


I'll be messing with that today

[EL34]

A dremel tool a dn a just a few minutes I converted the 120vac neon lamp to a LED


I cut it shorter right where the threads end
Pulled out the two metal connector tabs
Unsoldered the neon lamp and resistor and soldered my LED to the connector tabs :)


I used this LED

[DummyLoad]

we may have another LED option. i measured .9in from inside to touching a 50/50 cap in my boilermaker project.

http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/109/608-3x31-1xx-183773.pdf

the actual part no. that i think will fit. 3 bux each and they have 300+ in stock. the part no. below has the red LED.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Dialight/608-3231-110F/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsUguuR3b6UZjrITrX0AWF0W4el%2fApZ89g%3d

it has a .315" dia. M8 threads so it'll be a bit loose in the .375in hole, but will fit depth wise and the outer ring is .430in. so an 8mm flat washer will keep it more or less centered and secure.

it's .55in so it'll clear the cap. you'll have to bend and shrink tube the leads.

they're 2V DC LEDs so you'll need 180ohm resistor to the filament string. i needed some 250R 25W resistors and other odds and ends, so i'll order a couple and report back.

--pete

[EL34]

Mine is hooked up and works great
I used 180 ohm resistor and the brightness is perfect


It's attached at V4 heater connections


I prefer running a low voltage LEd than 120vac neon lamp

[EL34]

The next batch of Stout chassis will have a few hole changes

The cap bracket will be rotated 180 and moved back towards the power tranny
This makes room for the 120vas pilot lamp


The lamp hole will be slightly larger at .380 inches instead of .375 inches
I had to open up the hole just a tad to make my lamp fit

The pot holes will be spaced out at 1.375 inches instead of 1.25 inches
I found that some of the longer chicken head knobs were having beak collisions 

[DummyLoad]

The next batch of Stout chassis will have a few hole changes

The cap bracket will be rotated 180 and moved back towards the power tranny
This makes room for the 120vas pilot lamp


The lamp hole will be slightly larger at .380 inches instead of .375 inches
I had to open up the hole just a tad to make my lamp fit

The pot holes will be spaced out at 1.375 inches instead of 1.25 inches
I found that some of the longer chicken head knobs were having beak collisions 

please consider opening the power tranny hole 90-100mils? that way we cane use 400-450V iron in it without modifying. please see the boilermaker thread. since the 35W 6K6 tremolux OT fits, shouldn't the PT as well?


--pete

[DummyLoad]

I found that some of the longer chicken head knobs were having beak collisions

i had a list of minor changes. that was one as well...

the davies molding black chikkin haids will fit this chassis. they are expensive. i have 6 on hand and the amp looks better with chikkin haids.

PM if you want the allied part number. 

--pete

[EL34]

I had a bunch of cream colored Davies Chicken heads left over from the old days
I am using them on my build

[DummyLoad]

please consider adding 2 holes to the rightmost octal opening so a can cap can be installed there instead of an octal socket? 


thank you,


--pete

[EL34]

please consider opening the power tranny hole 90-100mils? that way we cane use 400-450V iron in it without modifying. please see the boilermaker thread. since the 35W 6K6 tremolux OT fits, shouldn't the PT as well?

Give me the exact opening measurements you need

[EL34]

please consider adding 2 holes to the rightmost octal opening so a can cap can be installed there instead of an octal socket? 

What cap fits in an octal hole?
Exactly what bracket hole spacing with the cap mounted in the bracket?
center to center

[DummyLoad]

the F&T you sell fits nice.


--pete

[EL34]

Ok, the 16, 32 and 50 FT are all the same size and I have the brackets here so I can get the hole spacing on those

Let me know the exact hole size for the tranny
If it is one of the trannys I stock I can get the measurement from that?

[DummyLoad]

the cap clamp tap holes need to be 1.75" center to center.


i just measured .9" from hole center to clamp tab hole. please see pics.


--pete

[DummyLoad]

Ok, the 16, 32 and 50 FT are all the same size and I have the brackets here so I can get the hole spacing on those

Let me know the exact hole size for the tranny
If it os one of the trannys I stock I can get the measurement from that?

i'm using a 100/100 there now. the 50/50 is inside.


i drilled an inset hole so the smaller 1.375" can cap clamp would fit.


that was the last thing on the punch list i had: add a 3rd hole for the inside can cap so you have the option of using the 1.375" 16/16, 32/32, or 50/50 can caps you sell. :-)


--pete

[EL34]

I get 1.9 inches center to center on the Ft cap brackets

[DummyLoad]

for the can cap i used 1.8 - your measurement is closer. you can use 1.75" and the nuts will be closer to center. best to have them at 1.8-9 closer to center if you have to change a cap, then you don't have to remove one nut.   

for the transformer:

current measurements are 2.5" x 2.625"

recommending 2.5" x 2.725"  with this size the mag comp (AES PT-022723), hammond 290CX, and hammond 273CZ fit.

i don't have a heyboer equivalent part (MOJO758) to check. if you'll order one for me, i'll check it just to be sure. just send me an invoice, assuming that you're ok with that, then please ship the whole works when the MOJO791 OT arrives. i'd rather have all iron sourced from one vendor.

--pete

--pete

[EL34]

I just did a Mojo order this morning.
Probably will not do another till next week
Your Mojo 791 should be here this afternoon
So hold the 791 and the 3 JJ caps till next week?

[DummyLoad]

sure. please hold the order.


--pete

[DummyLoad]

doug, please consider one last change request. see pic. this is so that the OT wires can up from the bottom of the chassis between selector and the output jacks to lay in on the switch from bottom to top.


--pete

[kagliostro]

It may be that what I'm about to say sounds a bit odd

but you could make a big hole (with 4 small holes near the corners) in correspondence to where it needs to be mounted the PT, and then, as it was did for the octal holes, prepare some reduction flange for various types of transformers and also a plate without hole to mount transformers not laydown?

This would make the chassis be usable with many different PT


Franco

[EL34]

doug, please consider one last change request. see pic. this is so that the OT wires can up from the bottom of the chassis between selector and the output jacks to lay in on the switch from bottom to top.
--pete

Hi Pete,
I don't get what you are saying?

[DummyLoad]

increase the distance between the output jacks and z selector switch.

--pete

[EL34]

So move the two speaker jacks 3/8 inch farther away from the rotary impedance selector

I was thinking that the impedance selector should be where the last jack is which would give you more wiring room
And it would be shorter distance and more in line with the OT wires

And maybe move it a bit farther away from the 2nd speaker jack

[DummyLoad]

that's even better. :-)

--pete

[tubenit]

Just got my chassis blank in!  VERY nice chassis & well made.  Thanks Doug!   Quick service, good project.

Going to turn this into the PreAmp project.   

I definitely can see this chassis being a great platform for all kinds of builds!  Would be very cool for a HoSo56 with 6BM8 tubes.

With respect, Tubenit

[EL34]

Cool,
Lets get some projects going in this chassis other than my 18 Watt Stout

[DummyLoad]

if you don't wish to construct a pilot light, these parts fit without any additional machining.

1) lamp housing - .375" - dialight p/n 508-7438-504

2) 5V RED LED cartridge - dialight p/n 507-4757-3331-500F

pics below of installed part. 

--pete

[Ed_Chambley]

I got some of these.  5 for $15.  Can use 6v bulbs.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/INDICATOR-LAMP-PILOT-LIGHT-Lot-of-5-RED-WHITE-Small-Panel-Mount-w-Bulb-NOS-/201238056518?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item2edab90e46

[SILVERGUN]

I got some of these.  5 for $15. 

They're a bit nipple'y

Makes me want to put 2 on one faceplate,, for some reason 

[Ed_Chambley]

I got some of these.  5 for $15. 

They're a bit nipple'y

Makes me want to put 2 on one faceplate,, for some reason 

Design it right and you may get a winner.  I prefer the fender style jewel and since I build cabinets for my amps I will probably put the cap on the outside and save some room.  2 of the chassis I got are for preamp builds anyway.

[SILVERGUN]

Will the Fender style jewel screw into those sockets if you wanted to get rid of the the excited stripper look?

[Ed_Chambley]

Will the Fender style jewel screw into those sockets if you wanted to get rid of the the excited stripper look?

Have to drill it some more.  No problem.  I got the chassis because they really are a good size to build projects in.  On a lot of the small jobs I am doing I am just using the LED in the metal ring running it off the heaters.  Seems like a simple thing and the white LED is good and bright.

[SILVERGUN]

On a lot of the small jobs I am doing I am just using the LED in the metal ring running it off the heaters.  Seems like a simple thing and the white LED is good and bright.

Yeah,,,on that one metal amp I used a red led to bias the first stage and panel mounted it as a standby/power indicator, that would warm up for a split-second once you took the amp out of standby, and let you know when it was time to play.

[DummyLoad]

other pilot light options for the rev. 1 stout chassis. i've been looking for another option for a smaller part (3/8" part sticks out too far and costs 17 bux for LED cartridge and housing.

no drilling, no fuss, inside cap clears with room to spare. use the alpha pot bushings that doug sells - use 2 bushings per lamp.

two parts tested - lumex metal bezel LED and dialight plastic bezel LED - both sourced from mouser. both are under 5 bux.

see part numbers in the pics - other color LEDs are available, search mouser online for the same part family. be sure to order 2-5V parts if you're going to tap the 6.3V filament supply.

--pete

PICS FOR DIALIGHT PART BELOW - LUMEX PART IN NEXT POST. 

[DummyLoad]

FOR THE LUMEX METAL PART


--pete

[EL34]

Those look nice

[DummyLoad]

Those look nice

thanks, i figured you'd like the metal one.       


--pete

[EL34]

Yeah, I like the chrome bezel LED's

[EL34]

On the next batch of Stout chassis I think it would be a good idea to add another pre amp tube hole in addition to the other changes we came up with a while back.


What says youz guys?

[DummyLoad]

that would be cool.

[hardhead]

On the next batch of Stout chassis I think it would be a good idea to add another pre amp tube hole in addition to the other changes we came up with a while back.


What says youz guys?

Great idea...

[EL34]

The new changes since version one are
Extra holes in last tube socket for Cap clamp bracket
One more 9 pin socket hole
Larger PT hole for Tremolux sized PT with endbell
Pot holes spaced further apart for longer chicken head knobs
One more pot hole added
Cap clamp hole moved back so you can use Marshall style pilot light
Rotary Impedance selector hole moved to last hole after speaker jacks
Pilot light hole diameter increased to .38 inches
I think that was all the changes
Now you guys have to help use up the existing supply
I put them on sale again on this page for $38
http://hoffmanamps.com/MyStore/catalog/Chassis.htm

This is what the new version top would look like