lego's spin on Sluckey's AC15

[sluckey]

Another rainy day. Today I ravaged the Lightning! It's a donor for this amp.

EDIT... big pic removed.

[lego4040]

I got tons of pedal parts but not amp parts. I wish I had amp parts like that

[sluckey]

The long board version is now posted on my website.

[archaos]

The long board version is now posted on my website.

Hmm, I guess this is still the old one : http://home.comcast.net/~seluckey/amps/misc/Vox_AC-15.pdf

I can't find the long board version.

[sluckey]

It's on the main page of my website. See pic...

EDIT... big pic removed.

[lego4040]

  If I did not have cap  board soldered already I would strip mine down and do this. What little time I had on the net I did some re-investigating on the 5E9_-A and 5G9.  I read on tpdri that tubeswell is quite knowledgeable on this amp. Im also going to Buffalo in a week and Hammond is there, I wonder if I can get in for a tour get some swag  maybe a set of trannies for another project

[lego4040]

  Your salvaging had me thinking Sluckey, I have a 5F1+ from Allen Amps that I built a few years ago. I can totally rip board out and build a vibrochamp and maybe a 5F11. The 5F1+ uses a 2nd 12AX7 so I have that for the Vibro. My Transformers that are in it is a TP25, TO11C and choke TC. I dont know what else I might be able to make from these but I do know that Heyboer makes his trannies. Feel fee to look at http://www.allenamps.com/parts.php#transformers  and maybe you can see what else I could use these for

[Ed_Chambley]

It's on the main page of my website. See pic...

Ed was here

[sluckey]

The small single ended amps have always been popular around here. Lot of members have built them. That whole set of iron would be a good match for any of the Fender single ended amps. Plenty of other brands too.

An that TP25 can be used on several of the small push pull 6V6 amps such as Princeton, Harvard, Vibrolux, etc. I put a TP25 in the old '57 Harvard I restored.

[lego4040]

  so a 5f11 definitely, 5E9-A or 5G9 no, I will look at the vibrolux schematic

[Ed_Chambley]

In making underboard connections, do most of you just put the wire in the bottom of the turret and solder, or do any of you bring the wire all the way to the top of the turret bending it over.  I read another post on another board where the guy said he brings it to the top and solders everything at once.

I have never really had a problem with inserting about 3/16 in the bottom and soldering.  Just asking as I thought it could be a good idea.

Any other methods others may use?  I never liked them, but sometimes they are needed.  Like on this layout.  I may still put some on top, but it looks pretty simple to unhook the pot side if needed to get under.

[Ed_Chambley]

so a 5f11 definitely, 5E9-A or 5G9 no, I will look at the vibrolux schematic

That is what I am talking about.  Planning another build while building one.

Who needs pedals when you have 77 amps, right?

[lego4040]

I've seen both ways here Ed, under board wires up threw bottom and out top and bent over. If you have room then you can pass top stuff threw and out bottom. That would work fine and you can work on those lovely soldering ball. What I noticed would be a problem for me is when you have top mount jumpers, I'm gonna undo those caps and resisters and wrap turret mil-spec most likely to reduce soldering headache for me

[terminalgs]

Another rainy day. Today I ravaged the Lightning! It's a donor for this amp.

I like the chassis, is this to be water tight amp? :-)

[sluckey]

so a 5f11 definitely, 5E9-A or 5G9 no, I will look at the vibrolux schematic

Those would be good candidates for the TP25 also. It'll probably work well with any of the Fender PP 6V6 or 6BQ5 amps.

[sluckey]

I like the chassis, is this to be water tight amp? :-)

I want it to float! 

[sluckey]

What I noticed would be a problem for me is when you have top mount jumpers

Make it easy on yourself next time. Solder those topside jumpers BEFORE you even think about loading components.

[sluckey]

I have never really had a problem with inserting about 3/16 in the bottom and soldering.

I highly recommend you bring the bottom jumper all the way through the turret and hook it back over so it will absolutely not come out accidentally. Some day later you may remove/replace a component and when you insert the new one back in the turret you may actually push the jumper wire out of the turret only to find it after troubleshooting for a week! 

[Ed_Chambley]

I have never really had a problem with inserting about 3/16 in the bottom and soldering.

I highly recommend you bring the bottom jumper all the way through the turret and hook it back over so it will absolutely not come out accidentally. Some day later you may remove/replace a component and when you insert the new one back in the turret you may actually push the jumper wire out of the turret only to find it after troubleshooting for a week! 

Got it.  Will do.  Most of the time I put them on top and solder to the base of the turret or either drill another hole.  I have done mostly Marshall type tagboard and I can bring the wire up.  I was looking at this layout and it will be difficult to drill holes for every underboard wire.  Plus, I am using a red solid board, soooooooooooo I will bring through the top of the turret.


I have a bunch of sozo caps I have been using up and they have thick leads.  They will almost fill the hole in the turret by themselves.  After this build I believe I will be out of .1's and I know I will be out of .01's.  I may rethink the caps for this build for this reason.  I will not be able to make it a pretty as you guys if I can't get everything to fit easily.

That is why I ask.  Thanks!

[sluckey]

I have a bunch of sozo caps I have been using up and they have thick leads.  They will almost fill the hole in the turret by themselves.

You'll regret using thick leads on this build. I highly recommend using those skinny lead blue metal film resistors and Xicon chicklet caps. Mallory 150s work well also but there is one that is a tight fit between turrets. The board is so tightly packed that you'll have to be extra careful with the M150s or you'll accidentally scar them with the iron. Those Xicons are immune to iron scars.

[lego4040]

Ed, check this out, itll make you sick. Over at my other forum hangout is a really nice guy named Spin who builds em all.  http://byocelectronics.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48351&start=50  I cant believe how perfect it all is, you can see all the ways of soldering on his board and pick up a few tips

[Ed_Chambley]

Ed, check this out, itll make you sick. Over at my other forum hangout is a really nice guy named Spin who builds em all.  http://byocelectronics.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48351&start=50  I cant believe how perfect it all is, you can see all the ways of soldering on his board and pick up a few tips

I promise, I will not build anything like that.  That work is incredible.  I will watch that for sure.  I like nice work, but I have fooled with old tube radios so much it is hard for me to believe it makes any difference how nice it looks but I do really appreciate nice builds.


I am going to try that parallel heater soon.  Seems like a lot of builders are doing it.


Sluckey, I noticed chicklets in both and thought there was a reason.  You did notice me saying I need to rethink the caps on this build.  All my .5 resistors have thin leads.  I will probably simply copy your layout.  I used some Sozo blues in a Hoffman Princeton build and it was a bear.  Not initially, but I had no idea how much tweaking I was going to have to do using larger Iron.  I basically had to change about half of the caps to get it like I wanted and I learned I never want to travel that path again.  The .1's covered so much I was standing on my head to keep from scorching the caps.


I got a great big box of them for free a while back.  I think I will sell the rest on Ebay.  The really do not make a noticeable difference to me anyway.


I will build the board and see what I am up against.  I have plenty of caps, but most of them are larger wider than Xicon.  You guys will finish much before me.  I started on the cabinet and I work slow on my stuff because others get in my way.  It is really nice to have 2 other people ahead feeding me information.  I would have to be stupid not to listen.

[archaos]

It's on the main page of my website. See pic...

Actually some problems with one web browser display in particular on my desktop (Win 7 64 bits).
Still it was OK this morning on my laptop using Win 7 32 (+ Firefox 28.0 as well...).

[sluckey]

Why are you saving the index page as a pdf??? Just click on the link for the Vox AC 15 file. When the pdf file loads, save that. Or, just right click on the link and chose to save the target file.

[archaos]

Why are you saving the index page as a pdf??? Just click on the link for the Vox AC 15 file. When the pdf file loads, save that. Or, just right click on the link and chose to save the target file.

Just to show you there's still an issue with Firefox at the moment. Actually, as you can see in the Firefox PDF, the VAC15_LB.pdf file still doesn't appear...

[sluckey]

Ah, I got it now!   

Firefox is still loading the page from cache. Do a refresh or delete your cache.

[lego4040]

Hey Sluckey, from the precious question about that transformer set I have, that would work on a BlackFace Face Princeton Reverb, right. I know I need the reverb tranny still

[Ed_Chambley]

Hey Sluckey, from the precious question about that transformer set I have, that would work on a BlackFace Face Princeton Reverb, right. I know I need the reverb tranny still

Not Sluckey, but by set you mean the Output transformer to be used as well?   I would say no because it is designed for a Single ended amp, but the description mentions it is capable of the output from 2 6V6's. but I think it means in parallel and not Push Pull.  It could be very cool to build a Princeton Reverb with a Single ended 2, 6v6 power section, but if you wanted it to be like Blackface you want to use the TO20 for a Push Pull, fixed bias.

[jojokeo]

Just checked out the build pics and my first thought was "what's with all the spaghetti tubing!? And for grounds too? Leather wrapping of filter caps? This has OCD written all over it and heaven help if there's circuit modifications to be had? Other than this, it VERY nice indeed and I look the other way on that other stuff.  Good job lego! 

[sluckey]

A little chassis work today. Tube sockets, cap can, and board mounted. Looks like the sun is coming out though...

EDIT... big pic removed.

[lego4040]

  How did you get that far so fast. You keep blank chassis laying around .

[archaos]

A little chassis work today. Tube sockets, cap can, and board mounted. Looks like the sun is coming out though...

Sweet Jesus !

 

Sun, do stay away !

[Ed_Chambley]

Just checked out the build pics and my first thought was "what's with all the spaghetti tubing!? And for grounds too? Leather wrapping of filter caps? This has OCD written all over it and heaven help if there's circuit modifications to be had? Other than this, it VERY nice indeed and I look the other way on that other stuff.  Good job lego! 

Jojo, what do you mean by Spagetti tubing?  Looks like the Marshall style layout Voa AC15 is the amp to build right now.  Lego was building and posting at BYOC and Sluckey invited him over here.  Well a few of us begged, like me.  I have 2 great builders ahead of me cutting a path and testing the waters.  My build should go fine as a result.

I had a 63 Vox AC15 Single 12 years ago.  Before I understood Push Pull and could only really repair TV and some radios.  I was around 16 and could not afford a amp that was nor reliable.  Back then we played so loud I cranked and pushed it hard next to my Super Reverb.  Lons story short, I sold it for next to nothing, but learned a valuable lesson.  Rare amps become more valuable.

I want another as it was the coolest amp I ever owned.  Euphoric recall.

I have done research, lots of it.  I am interested to find out how the Hammond OT is going to work.  I have a way to get an original and I found an original choke.  The guy with the original suggested I use a Mercury 2 tap 59 series clone of the radiospares for durability if I were going to play it often.  Anyway, I mentioned to Sluckey about putting the filter caps on the board, so he graciously revised the file for this.

He is building this version and Lego is building the short version with the cap board.  I don't know if either will make a difference, but I am leaning hard towards the Long version.  I was waiting for Sluckey to revise the layout and I started with building cabinets.  He did it much faster than I thought.

I think he is really jonesing for one of these himself.  Just to bring you up to speed since you were on holiday in Hawaii.  That is what the upper class does.

[Ed_Chambley]

A little chassis work today. Tube sockets, cap can, and board mounted. Looks like the sun is coming out though...

I am missing the 8 pin socket for the optional 5v Rectifier.  Did you ditch the idea, or is it coming.  I was planning to do this too, but I wanted to see if you were going to make it switchable and how you were going to do it.

t first glance it looks like a chassis for a huge preamp.  I had to count the sockets.

You have the cap centered on 4" and the sockets continuing centered on 2" leaving 2 " at the end"?
 

[sluckey]

I am missing the 8 pin socket for the optional 5v Rectifier.  Did you ditch the idea, or is it coming.  I was planning to do this too, but I wanted to see if you were going to make it switchable and how you were going to do it.

I was forced to use the EZ81 rectifier because I can't find my big step bit. I remember doing something very clever with it, but I don't recall what that was! If I find it before I start wiring I'll probably enlarge the hole and use a 5Y3. I was never planning on a switchable rectifier.

Those gold plated Cinch sockets look good on that blue painters tape, don't they.   

[HotBluePlates]

Just checked out the build pics and my first thought was "what's with all the spaghetti tubing!?

Jojo, what do you mean by Spagetti tubing? 

In the image below, the clear/whitish insulation on the buss wires and connection is called "spaghetti" tubing.


In reality, the stuff that guy was using is teflon tubing that he's sliding over exposed buss wire to prevent an accidental short-circuit. There was a varnish black cloth tubing used in the old days called "spaghetti". Antique Electronic Supply has some that's white. I originally saw it inside of a kit-build Fisher hi-fi, which still had the assembly instructions where the loose insulation was called spaghetti.

[Ed_Chambley]

I am missing the 8 pin socket for the optional 5v Rectifier.  Did you ditch the idea, or is it coming.  I was planning to do this too, but I wanted to see if you were going to make it switchable and how you were going to do it.

I was forced to use the EZ81 rectifier because I can't find my big step bit. I remember doing something very clever with it, but I don't recall what that was! If I find it before I start wiring I'll probably enlarge the hole and use a 5Y3. I was never planning on a switchable rectifier.

Those gold plated Cinch sockets look good on that blue painters tape, don't they.   

They sure do, you are not planning paint I hope?  Are you planning a cabinet and faceplate for this or you going for the industrial look again?

I have found some really nice old ceramic sockets, but I only have 6 of them in 9 pin.  They look so nice, I am going to mismatch, I like them so much.

[Ed_Chambley]

Just checked out the build pics and my first thought was "what's with all the spaghetti tubing!?

Jojo, what do you mean by Spagetti tubing? 

In the image below, the clear/whitish insulation on the buss wires and connection is called "spaghetti" tubing.


In reality, the stuff that guy was using is teflon tubing that he's sliding over exposed buss wire to prevent an accidental short-circuit. There was a varnish black cloth tubing used in the old days called "spaghetti". Antique Electronic Supply has some that's white. I originally saw it inside of a kit-build Fisher hi-fi, which still had the assembly instructions where the loose insulation was called spaghetti.

Yes, I have some of that.  Just did not know what it was called.  I did not notice any on Lego's board.  Thanks, I wao=ndered what it was called.  I have been using it a lot lately attempting to build without any wire or tagstrips.  True point tp point.  I started with a champ and then a 5E3.  Took that apart and now I am truing to do a 5G9.  Takes a lot of thinking and I am really getting a great appreciation for the guys that built all these old Console Radios that ate quiet as all gitout, but they used parts they had that we will not use because they are too noisy.

[lego4040]

So many amps to build, so little time and money. I have pedals in my closet, on my board, in my locker, a dozen finished and working but not in a enclosure and blank board waiting :BangHead:My wife asks why? And I say for the same reason you have all those shoes I didn't use the buss covering because it wasn't on hand at time and I would have bugged out trying to do all that. My bucket list is a BFPR, 5G9, BluesBreaker and a TrainWreck in no specific order. At my speed I'll be retiring when done

[lego4040]

But since I have the iron for a 5F11 I can do that one. On the 5F11 subject, I looked at the 5E11 schematics and layout. Is it me or is the only difference Two resistor values? One is the 10k of the positive side off the selenium rec and other is the 100k off preamp going to .1uf

[sluckey]

Have you dropped out of the AC15 project?

[lego4040]

Oh No, not at All. I'm in limbo waiting for Chassis, transformers etc..... Tying to keep the wheels rolling so when I'm ready to start another project I have everything I need from parts to paperwork.

[jojokeo]

Just checked out the build pics and my first thought was "what's with all the spaghetti tubing!?

Jojo, what do you mean by Spagetti tubing? 

In the image below, the clear/whitish insulation on the buss wires and connection is called "spaghetti" tubing.


In reality, the stuff that guy was using is teflon tubing that he's sliding over exposed buss wire to prevent an accidental short-circuit. There was a varnish black cloth tubing used in the old days called "spaghetti". Antique Electronic Supply has some that's white. I originally saw it inside of a kit-build Fisher hi-fi, which still had the assembly instructions where the loose insulation was called spaghetti.

Yes, I have some of that.  Just did not know what it was called.  I did not notice any on Lego's board.  Thanks, I wao=ndered what it was called.  I have been using it a lot lately attempting to build without any wire or tagstrips.

Thanks for getting me up to speed ED! I have an AC15 w/ Celestion Blue and a homebrew EF86 AC15-ish in a chassis-only...one of my earliest builds but not sure if these are a lot different or "special"? If so can you enlighten me on it? Is this also related to BNWitt's desired build from a ways back at all?
I also thought sluckey had built his "last amp" a year ago?    But how could that be any more believeable that my bass player announcing that we played "Brown Eyed Girl" for the very last time a year ago and it somehow finds it's place in our set list virtually every gig since - and he makes the set lists, lol. 
Here's more spagetti pics I was looking at before-
 

[Ed_Chambley]

Jojo,
I am not going to try to enlighten you on anything.  If you have one, bless your heart as we say in the south.

They are really rare, that is what I mean.  I never heard yours, but I heard mine and I remember it being cool.  I need to build a EL84 amp since I never have and I thought of you when I thought of the EF86, that is for sure.

I do not think Binwitt ever got around to doping it, but ever since I saw the layout, it has been on my mind.  I think SLuckey did a killer job.  I think he is building this to show me it aint the amp, but it is the player.

I asked about it a while back and here we are.  Here is the faceplate since I am working backwards.  I needed a single 12 cabinet anyway, so I thought this would be a good time for me to build one.  I have too many 2, 12's and quite a few 2, 10's.  Then there are my Super Reberbs (bestdamampeverbuiltandyouknowitbecauseeveryotherampwantstobeit).

Here is a faceplate I am working on.  Please take a look as I have been known to make them backwards.

I have to change the input area to allow for more space, but who needs low and high labeled.  Some are switches and I will probably use fender cream knobs or either black chicken like a vox is.

Glad to have you back Jojo, but I hate you had to leave Hawaii.

[jojokeo]

Like the faceplate but only confused on the power / standby area in that the OFF position should be on the same lower position yeah? Otherwise I like it. What about the name SuperBolt? Seems like maybe a Supro? Anyway, I know you'll get it figured out. Is anyone making theirs with reverb? Just curious seeing Sluckey's with all those tubes. Confirming - you will be building strictly on the fly from memory right!?     When you speak of Hammond trannies and knowing your fondness for the old organs I have a hard time knowing if you're referencing current production Hammonds or the old organ donor iron? I've used both with nice results it's just that using the old stuff you normally don't get the multi taps is all and you've got to figure out the actual pri-z if you truely want or need to know for some reason.
 
I spent my flight times by finally making a layout for my VexiPlexi. My seating area partners must've thought I was a bit nuts!? I caught a few watching as if they couldn't take their eyes off of it like a car chase on TV    It was nice to finally get traction going again on it and I'm glad I'm not going overboard with gain stages. I'm realizing what sounds good in the house, studio, and on stage are different things. Shoot, just realized I'm dragging this thread down. Sorry Sluckey & lego 

[HotBluePlates]

Like the faceplate but only confused on the power / standby area in that the OFF position should be on the same lower position yeah?

Maybe that switch could have the labels "Standby" & "On" (in place of "Off").


I know what Ed meant with the original labels, but sure, others would be confused.

[sluckey]

I didn't get much done today. Mounted the iron and loaded the back panel.

EDIT... big pic removed.

[Ed_Chambley]

Like the faceplate but only confused on the power / standby area in that the OFF position should be on the same lower position yeah? Otherwise I like it. What about the name SuperBolt? Seems like maybe a Supro? Anyway, I know you'll get it figured out. Is anyone making theirs with reverb? Just curious seeing Sluckey's with all those tubes. Confirming - you will be building strictly on the fly from memory right!?     When you speak of Hammond trannies and knowing your fondness for the old organs I have a hard time knowing if you're referencing current production Hammonds or the old organ donor iron? I've used both with nice results it's just that using the old stuff you normally don't get the multi taps is all and you've got to figure out the actual pri-z if you truely want or need to know for some reason.
 
I spent my flight times by finally making a layout for my VexiPlexi. My seating area partners must've thought I was a bit nuts!? I caught a few watching as if they couldn't take their eyes off of it like a car chase on TV    It was nice to finally get traction going again on it and I'm glad I'm not going overboard with gain stages. I'm realizing what sounds good in the house, studio, and on stage are different things. Shoot, just realized I'm dragging this thread down. Sorry Sluckey & lego 

That is why i posted the faceplate.  I make mistakes and I appreciate your catching them.
If you notice there is more to the top and this is to screw to the inside back of the head box.

I need to change it to on.  To tell you the truth, I rushed through it and posted it knowing you guys would be helpful and you are.  HBP knows I know and I do.  I am not one to pay close attention to details.  I have gotten a lot better.

You are correct when you talk about Hammond.  I do mean both.  I have a few Baldwin pulls that look very nice.

On the research thing I have found a guy willing to share knowledge and he has a lot.  He mentioned Denny built using large Iron for the job and I remember the one I had this was very true.  Just listening to one you would think the OT gets saturated, but that is far from the truth.  They were over spec'd and the write up on Mercury site is not really the whole story.  That is why I think the organ stuff I have would work well.......................but...............I am not going to use any of it.   I am going to use Mercury OT and I have an original choke.  Many have told me that they used the Radiospares toneclone for the best results.  It is all opinion, but they sound different than any other EL84 amp I have played including the Drz and Goodsell along with matchless.

Word is the difference comes from strong Iron and great ripple reduction which does not make you think it is so.  We shall see as the Iron Sluckey and Lego4040 are using is good stuff and very sturdy for the job.  I am using the same PT mainly because I have one.

On the faceplate, I have the color matched and picked up just enough to make it look vox.  Please, please point out any problems you may see.  I am going to prep the chassis soon and I will install the faceplate before drilling and punching.

I am getting somethings done, but not much.  Stick with us we will get the amps singing soon.

No, I will not be building this from memory.  Although you know I can build an amp from memory now.
Be quiet with this comment.  There are some who will punish me.

Still playing with PtP builds and really like it.  They are really a challenge.

[Ed_Chambley]

Oh yea JoJo, SuperBolt is on all my amps.  It helps the sell when I am tired of them.  Who wants to buy an amp with no name on them.  Remember Branding?

[lego4040]

I got some reading to catch up on but here is a real vox AC/30. I'm at town hall seeing Neil Finn tonight who is a genius and loves vox