lego's spin on Sluckey's AC15

[sluckey]

Who is this Merlin

http://www.valvewizard.co.uk/

[Ed_Chambley]

I just replaced the brilliance switch with a 6 position rotary switch that selects different value caps. Much more useful than the single position ice pick cap. I used the same circuit that I have in my AC15 Lite.

     http://home.comcast.net/~seluckey/amps/hammond/hammond_ao39.pdf

Sluckey, without pulling the .01uf (C3) off the board of the build, using this switch on the Vox layout you would never have a stock value unless you used a .1uf on one of the positions or unless you could switch the switch on and off.  Am I thinking correctly?


I hope I do not have this wrong, but I place a connection, no cap, that I plan to have straight up.  Sort of like it is stock and right is bright getting less bright the more your turn which is only preference.

[sluckey]

Sluckey, without pulling the .01uf (C3) off the board of the build, using this switch on the Vox layout you would never have a stock value unless you used a .1uf on one of the positions or unless you could switch the switch on and off.  Am I thinking correctly?

You don't have to use a .1 cap.  Leave the .01µF on the board. Connect the two wires from the rotary switch to the same places you would normally connect the Brilliance switch. Use a piece of wire for the cap in the first position. Use a 220pF for the cap in the last position. This will give you stock values when the rotary switch is in either extreme position. See pic...

EDIT... Turning the switch clockwise moves the switch wiper in my schematic down, selecting smaller and smaller caps, and making the amp brighter and brighter. Guess what? I wired my switch backwards!   

[Ed_Chambley]

Sluckey, without pulling the .01uf (C3) off the board of the build, using this switch on the Vox layout you would never have a stock value unless you used a .1uf on one of the positions or unless you could switch the switch on and off.  Am I thinking correctly?

You don't have to use a .1 cap.  Leave the .01µF on the board. Connect the two wires from the rotary switch to the same places you would normally connect the Brilliance switch. Use a piece of wire for the cap in the first position. Use a 220pF for the cap in the last position. This will give you stock values when the rotary switch is in either extreme position. See pic...

EDIT... Turning the switch clockwise moves the switch wiper in my schematic down, selecting smaller and smaller caps, and making the amp brighter and brighter. Guess what? I wired my switch backwards!   

That is how I wired my gatlin gun.  I have one wire and 11 different values.  2 of them actually increase bass.  Not really brilliance.  The first position to the right is the brightest, to the left is darkest which is darker than stock.  I hope it doesn't get flabby as I was thinking single coil bridge.  It is real easy to play with tho since it only has 1 nut and 2 wires to remove it.


Sluckey, unless you tell people no one would ever think of it being backwards.  Maybe mine is backwards.

[sluckey]

2 of them actually increase bass.  Not really brilliance.  The first position to the right is the brightest, to the left is darkest which is darker than stock.

That can't happen. The stock .01µF will be the darkest. The rotary switch is putting caps in SERIES with the stock .01µF which can only DECREASE the value of the total capacitance, making the tone brighter than the stock cap.

[sluckey]

BTW, I used a pair of shoulder washers with my rotary switch since it was going in a 1/2" hole.

[Willabe]

Sluckey, unless you tell people no one would ever think of it being backwards.  Maybe mine is backwards.

It's not backwards. Well at least to a south paw like me.


             Brad     

[lego4040]

Sluckey, this is the varitone that i have but wont use. Its not MBB and values are not right but my question is what would the pupose of the inductor be? Also here are my heater wires done for the most part, They look good enough? Are they twisted enough

[EL34]

BTW, I used a pair of shoulder washers with my rotary switch since it was going in a 1/2" hole.

hey, those look familiar
http://hoffmanamps.com/MyStore/catalog/parts2.htm

[Ed_Chambley]

2 of them actually increase bass.  Not really brilliance.  The first position to the right is the brightest, to the left is darkest which is darker than stock.

That can't happen. The stock .01µF will be the darkest. The rotary switch is putting caps in SERIES with the stock .01µF which can only DECREASE the value of the total capacitance, making the tone brighter than the stock cap.

Yep, this is true.  If they were in parallel, it would not be true.  If it were a 2 pole, 12 position switch could it be done?

[Ed_Chambley]

BTW, I used a pair of shoulder washers with my rotary switch since it was going in a 1/2" hole.

Dang it, I had my switch when I drilled my hole.  I do have a stupid hole above the input jacks.

[g-man]

Deleted

[Ed_Chambley]

Warning: I usually ask really dumb questions!


Looking at the power supply in sluckey's schematic, why is node D at significantly lower voltage than B and C? It looks like B, C and D are all dropped across a 22K resistor from the 336V plate voltage, so I don't understand why node D is about 80V lower than B and C.

Which schematic are you referring to?  I do not see any voltage references.

[Ed_Chambley]

Sluckey,
What did you end up with plate voltages on the EL34's.  Are you fairly close to 310?

[g-man]

Deleted

[Ed_Chambley]

Which schematic are you referring to?  I do not see any voltage references.

On sluckey's homepage where he has all of his AC15 build docs; schematic links at the bottom of this page:


http://home.comcast.net/~seluckey/amps/VAC15/ac15.htm

Glad you posted this.  I was not aware Sluckey had included all those voltage readings.  I would assume since node D is supplying all of the wiggle channel, the drop would be due to loading.  If you look at the plate reading of v5 a and b, they are consistent with the voltage at node D.  Node D is providing the whole Vibrato/Tremolo channel.


Just my guess.

[sluckey]

Looking at the power supply in sluckey's schematic, why is node D at significantly lower voltage than B and C? It looks like B, C and D are all dropped across a 22K resistor from the 336V plate voltage, so I don't understand why node D is about 80V lower than B and C.

Nodes B and C only supply one tube each. Node D supplies three tube and has a much higher current load, therefore more voltage dropped across it's 22K.

[sluckey]

Lego, inductors can be used in tone circuits just as capacitors can. Without seeing a schematic I can't be more specific. Your heaters look fine. I don't subscribe to the idea of "20 twists per inch".   

[sluckey]

What did you end up with plate voltages on the EL34's.  Are you fairly close to 310?

331v. Don't you have voltages on your visio drawing?

[lego4040]

Thanks Sluckey, I hit my local RS for that MBB switch and they only had the non grounding one, Looks like I will order that and see what caps I don't have on hand. Question on your preamp tubes, you have the 330k on the inputs, did you add them there to save space on the turret board or was this something added after the board was designed. I can't get time to work on this lately and Jonesing.

[Ed_Chambley]

What did you end up with plate voltages on the EL34's.  Are you fairly close to 310?

331v. Don't you have voltages on your visio drawing?

Probably do, just am not at home where that information is.  I looked at the one linked to answer g-man's question.  Never considered the voltages after you told me you had 350 coming off the rectifier.  Figured I would get my own after I was up and running.  Good to know you have them already as I will have something to compare mine to.  I believe you gave me a version after you changed the series resistor on the speed pot.


To be truthful, I just sunk in my head the choke location.  I have been off building and not thinking.

[sluckey]

Question on your preamp tubes, you have the 330k on the inputs, did you add them there to save space on the turret board or was this something added after the board was designed.

I put those resistors on the board in a couple amps I built several years ago, but no more. If I have hi/lo inputs, I will use 68Ks and mount them directly to the input jacks, just like on the layout you used. If I only have a single input jack, I always mount a 33K resistor directly to the socket, just like on the layout I used. I never even consider putting them on the board any longer.

[sluckey]

... I just sunk in my head the choke location.  I have been off building and not thinking.

So where did you mount the choke? And the OT?

[Ed_Chambley]

... I just sunk in my head the choke location.  I have been off building and not thinking.

So where did you mount the choke? And the OT?

I have not done it yet.  I am sure I am going to do it like the JTM 45.  I meant the choke location in the circuit.  I got sidetracked.  I was hoping to finish this weekend, but noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo.  I had to put up some damn curtains.

[sluckey]

2 of them actually increase bass.  Not really brilliance.  The first position to the right is the brightest, to the left is darkest which is darker than stock.

That can't happen. The stock .01µF will be the darkest. The rotary switch is putting caps in SERIES with the stock .01µF which can only DECREASE the value of the total capacitance, making the tone brighter than the stock cap.

Yep, this is true.  If they were in parallel, it would not be true.  If it were a 2 pole, 12 position switch could it be done?

Ed, you can easily do this with the switch you have. Just put 12 caps on the switch, maybe ranging from 0.1µF all the way down to 220pF. ***DO NOT USE A JUMPER WIRE IN ANY POSITION*** THERE MUST BE A CAP FOR EVERY SWITCH POSITION.

Now replace the .01µF on the board with a jumper wire. Now you can switch above and below the stock .01µF value.

[Ed_Chambley]

2 of them actually increase bass.  Not really brilliance.  The first position to the right is the brightest, to the left is darkest which is darker than stock.

That can't happen. The stock .01µF will be the darkest. The rotary switch is putting caps in SERIES with the stock .01µF which can only DECREASE the value of the total capacitance, making the tone brighter than the stock cap.

Yep, this is true.  If they were in parallel, it would not be true.  If it were a 2 pole, 12 position switch could it be done?

Ed, you can easily do this with the switch you have. Just put 12 caps on the switch, maybe ranging from 0.1µF all the way down to 220pF. ***DO NOT USE A JUMPER WIRE IN ANY POSITION*** THERE MUST BE A CAP FOR EVERY SWITCH POSITION.

Now replace the .01µF on the board with a jumper wire. Now you can switch above and below the stock .01µF value.

Damn Dude, you are the man.  I will just replace the straight wire on the switch which is in the most upward position with the .01uf on the board and vice versa.  Anybody ever tell you you think too much.  Thanks!!!


This thread has gotten INSANE!

[sluckey]

I've updated the schematic on my website to include the 6 position Brilliance switch option. Ed, I know yours will be different. You may want to get some Visio practice while recovering?

Any progress from you guys?

[tubenit]

Sluckey,

I just want to voice how much I appreciate your contributions, knowledge and generousity on this forum.

You've got a wealth of information,  and an abundance of great perspective and common sense. 

Your help is an ongoing gift that makes this forum a superb place to be. 

BTW, I  really like your personal website. Very well done & the visio schematic and layout information is second to none.

THANKS!   With respect,  Tubenit

[sluckey]

Jeff, thanks for the kind words. You really have a gift with words.

[Ed_Chambley]

I've updated the schematic on my website to include the 6 position Brilliance switch option. Ed, I know yours will be different. You may want to get some Visio practice while recovering?

Any progress from you guys?

I will do.  They have changed my surgery and now we have mentioned it.  No problem at all.  It will be June 11, was scheduled for May 27th, but now it will be in the hospital.  Guys, I mentioned to Sluckey I am having a disk replacement in my neck for those who noticed Sluckey mentioned recovery.  He was nice enough to send me some things to focus on.


I have not made any more progress.  Remember, I am not retired like some people I know.    Lately I can only work in short periods and when I get home from work I am not able to work on my projects.  When I get tired I have more pain and I have to relax.  Weekends are a different story tho and I will be at it again this Saturday morning.


I will have a lot of Visio work to do once I figure out what I am going to do with the extra tube.  I did see a cascaded EF86 to a 12Ax7 that looked interesting, but I remember the normal channel well and I really like it stock.  Anyway, I have a 2 position footswitch and I plan to use one for the front combined with a switch on back to jump the channels and the other for on off tremolo.


I am really enjoying this build and especially the ground scheme.  I know you said yours was noise free, but I think I am going to elevate the heaters just because I have never done it.  I did make a DC heater supply lately.  I attached it here.  I got off guitarnuts.com site.  His amp is actually a very cool, but I don't care for the loop connection, but the design is very good.  I put it into a Deluxe Reverb Ab763 which was a tad noisy and it is quiet.  The only thing is I have 5.8, like he got for the voltage.  Wondering if different diodes would make a difference?  What do you think.  think the circuit can be redesigned to get the voltage up to 6.8 or so?

[Ed_Chambley]

Sluckey,
I know this is nitpicking, but I want to get my plate voltage down between 300-310.  Is there a problem with putting a dropping resistor between the dual 16uf can and running the choke after?  Also, what would be your guess as to the size resistance?


I noticed the voltages you have are just a bit above I am sure due to wall current, but they are up throughout the entire circuit.  If you were to do this where would place the resistor?

[sluckey]

I would not bother with dc heaters or elevating the heaters for this amp. But, I don't understand why the dc voltage would only be 5.8VDC with the bridge circuit you posted. 6.3VAC into a bridge should give 8.9V unloaded. Surely the filaments are not pulling that 8.9V down to 5.8V. I suspect something may not be wired correctly?
====================================

About dropping the B+... BUILD IT FIRST!

Leave the choke right where it is. Put the dropping resistor between the rectifier V8 pin 3 and the STBY switch. You may even have room to mount the resistor directly on the socket for V8.

Now, you need to build the circuit IAW the schematic first so you'll know exactly what your voltages are. Then you will know how much you want to drop the voltage. Then do the math and add the appropriate size resistor.

Here's how to do it using my voltage readings as an example. My B+ into the filter is currently 350v and let's say I want to drop it to 325V (like the original).

Step 1. Determine how much total B+ current you have. This is very easy to do. Just use two gator clip leads to connect a 1Ω resistor across the STBY switch. Measure the millivolt drop directly across that resistor. IN my amp, I have exactly 100mV. That means there is 100mA (0.1A) flowing thru that 1Ω resistor and that is the total B+ current drawn by my amp at idle.

Step 2. Do the math. I want a resistor that will drop 25V and there will be 100mA flowing through it. So, R = E/I, R = 25V/0.1A, R = 250Ω. And the power dissipated by that resistor will be P = EI, P = 25V x 0.1A, P = 2.5W. Double that for safety so you would use a 5 Watt resistor. I'd be more comfortable using a 10 watter.

So, in my example, I need a 250Ω 10W resistor to drop my B+ from 350V to 325V. Now just unclip the 1Ω resistor and clip in the 250Ω resistor to check voltages before you actually solder anything.

Don't throw this info away! You might need it some day. Did I say, BUILD IT FIRST? If not, I meant to.   

[Ed_Chambley]

I would not bother with dc heaters or elevating the heaters for this amp. But, I don't understand why the dc voltage would only be 5.8VDC with the bridge circuit you posted. 6.3VAC into a bridge should give 8.9V unloaded. Surely the filaments are not pulling that 8.9V down to 5.8V. I suspect something may not be wired correctly?
====================================

About dropping the B+... BUILD IT FIRST!

Leave the choke right where it is. Put the dropping resistor between the rectifier V8 pin 3 and the STBY switch. You may even have room to mount the resistor directly on the socket for V8.

Now, you need to build the circuit IAW the schematic first so you'll know exactly what your voltages are. Then you will know how much you want to drop the voltage. Then do the math and add the appropriate size resistor.

Here's how to do it using my voltage readings as an example. My B+ into the filter is currently 350v and let's say I want to drop it to 325V (like the original).

Step 1. Determine how much total B+ current you have. This is very easy to do. Just use two gator clip leads to connect a 1Ω resistor across the STBY switch. Measure the millivolt drop directly across that resistor. IN my amp, I have exactly 100mV. That means there is 100mA (0.1A) flowing thru that 1Ω resistor and that is the total B+ current drawn by my amp at idle.

Step 2. Do the math. I want a resistor that will drop 25V and there will be 100mA flowing through it. So, R = E/I, R = 25V/0.1A, R = 250Ω. And the power dissipated by that resistor will be P = EI, P = 25V x 0.1A, P = 2.5W. Double that for safety so you would use a 5 Watt resistor. I'd be more comfortable using a 10 watter.

So, in my example, I need a 250Ω 10W resistor to drop my B+ from 350V to 325V. Now just unclip the 1Ω resistor and clip in the 250Ω resistor to check voltages before you actually solder anything.

Don't throw this info away! You might need it some day. Did I say, BUILD IT FIRST? If not, I meant to.   

Didn't you mean to say to build it first.  I was planning to build it first and test everything and even play it a tad, but if you want me to go ahead and do this first I will.


I have a electronic notebook I keep all them math stuff in.  This one is already put in-place.  I have a couple of chapters with HBP's math.  This will be good for me to experiment with.


Here is question.  I'll bet you knew one was coming.  Why would you drop the voltage prior to the first cap on the B+ where I saw on one of your builds you dropped using 2 on the HT?  What is the difference in the 2 ways?


Also, what wattage for the 1 ohm?  Since you are really not dropping any voltage a 1/2 watt would be plenty.  I have DALE 1 watters I normally use.  This is fine, right?


Also, this will have to be after the build as I don't just keep a pile of 10 watt resistors laying around, however I know I have a 250ohm/10 watt.  Fairly common size, but isn't 10 watt extreme or are you feeling a little Matchless.  Just kidding, I understand the 10 watt.  It will be much cooler.


BTW, are you sure I shouldn't build this first, then do the dropping.

[lego4040]

Im here, I got things rolling again. I was reading your reply on Eds .o1 cap situation.  I got two pics Ill post of my progress, on hand I have the 220pf, 560pf,.002uf, .0047uf and a .001uf with voltages for this, that ok? Ill do what you told Ed to do first on board and add that value to the switch alon with others




Now as I waited for my slow internet to upload these pics I was looking at the optional tone switch, dont you want the .01 on board then add the others in series with the switch?

[Ed_Chambley]

Lego,
With the cap values you are using and the switch, you will be in series and yes you will leave the .01uf on the board.


Sluckey was explaining to me how to use my 12 position switch to have a overall cap value over .01uf.  That is why he mentioned removing it from the board.  The reason is because any cap you put in series will not increase the capacitance above the smallest in the series.  Therefore, if I wanted to make a selectable value above .01, for instance .1 it would be necessary for me to not have a smaller value in series with it.  Replacing the cap on the board with a jumper removes a series connection and just uses what is selected on the switch.


I hope this is not confusing.  If your caps are to be series, leave the one on the board.

[sluckey]

Why would you drop the voltage prior to the first cap on the B+ where I saw on one of your builds you dropped using 2 on the HT?  What is the difference in the 2 ways?

There's really no difference between the two methods. But, that was a special case and there were two reasons for using 2 resistors on the HT leads rather than a single resistor on the B+ lead.

#1.  The B+ was way too high. That amp used iron salvaged from an old Fisher hifi amp. Had to be dropped.

#2.  The PT leads were very short. I also had to use a terminal strip for the PT leads and branch out from there. Those resistors fit that layout fine.

#C.  Those resistors just happened to be 250Ω 7W and I had a butt load of them. They got the voltage where I wanted it so I quit experimenting and I never looked back.

BTW, I was never happy with using any dropping resistors. That amp got a 'correct' PT shortly after that pic was posted on my website. Notice those resistors were not on my schematic?

Also, what wattage for the 1 ohm?  Since you are really not dropping any voltage a 1/2 watt would be plenty.  I have DALE 1 watters I normally use.  This is fine, right?

Do the math. (.1 x .1)/1=.01W. Double that for safety. So use a .02 watt resistor.

BTW, are you sure I shouldn't build this first, then do the dropping.

Not really sure, but it's raining and I have a cold case of IceHouse. I'll get back to you on that one!

[Ed_Chambley]

Why would you drop the voltage prior to the first cap on the B+ where I saw on one of your builds you dropped using 2 on the HT?  What is the difference in the 2 ways?

There's really no difference between the two methods. But, that was a special case and there were two reasons for using 2 resistors on the HT leads rather than a single resistor on the B+ lead.

#1.  The B+ was way too high. That amp used iron salvaged from an old Fisher hifi amp. Had to be dropped.

#2.  The PT leads were very short. I also had to use a terminal strip for the PT leads and branch out from there. Those resistors fit that layout fine.

#C.  Those resistors just happened to be 250Ω 7W and I had a butt load of them. They got the voltage where I wanted it so I quit experimenting and I never looked back.

BTW, I was never happy with using any dropping resistors. That amp got a 'correct' PT shortly after that pic was posted on my website. Notice those resistors were not on my schematic?

Also, what wattage for the 1 ohm?  Since you are really not dropping any voltage a 1/2 watt would be plenty.  I have DALE 1 watters I normally use.  This is fine, right?

Do the math. (.1 x .1)/1=.01W. Double that for safety. So use a .02 watt resistor.

BTW, are you sure I shouldn't build this first, then do the dropping.

Not really sure, but it's raining and I have a cold case of IceHouse. I'll get back to you on that one!

If I were to do the math, it would have been based on your findings of 100ma and not mine.  With that Icehouse philosophy I could just throw a 250ohm resistor across the standby.  Have another, it's gonna get good.


I actually was thinking about getting an Edcor Tranny (325-0-325) without a 5v tap and use the Hammond for another project.  Then I saw a better one for my other project.  Dropping this small amount is no big deal IMO.


I have done it by increasing resistance in the B+ rail, what is the issue with adding another resistor?  I have an amp I have done this to.  Is this a problem?

[lego4040]

Thanks, sometimes I gotta chew on this info for a while, Series/parallel stuff that is.

[sluckey]

I have done it by increasing resistance in the B+ rail, what is the issue with adding another resistor?  I have an amp I have done this to.  Is this a problem?

Huh??? That's exactly what I've been talking about.

[lego4040]

switch wired up

[Ed_Chambley]

I have done it by increasing resistance in the B+ rail, what is the issue with adding another resistor?  I have an amp I have done this to.  Is this a problem?

Huh??? That's exactly what I've been talking about.

Yes, I meant I moved the choke wires down and put a dropping resistor between the caps in a 5F4 build.  Originally, I asked about doing this and you said you would put it across the standby switch.


I was asking out of curiosity why the preference of the location over between the caps with the choke after the second cap.  Is there a reason you prefer the choke between the filter caps and not a resistor?

[sluckey]

Originally, I asked about doing this and you said you would put it across the standby switch.

I did not say that. I said "Leave the choke right where it is. Put the dropping resistor between the rectifier V8 pin 3 and the STBY switch. You may even have room to mount the resistor directly on the socket for V8."

The only reason I've mentioned putting a 1Ω or 250Ω resistor ACROSS the STBY switch using gator clips was for ease of testing. You don't have to do any soldering to do the testing. Of course the STBY switch would have to be in the open position.

Is there a reason you prefer the choke between the filter caps and not a resistor?

Absolutely. Cap-choke-cap is the classic pi filter. It has much better filtering that cap-resistor-cap. If you move the position of that choke you may change the characteristic sound of the amp.

[Ed_Chambley]

Originally, I asked about doing this and you said you would put it across the standby switch.

I did not say that. I said "Leave the choke right where it is. Put the dropping resistor between the rectifier V8 pin 3 and the STBY switch. You may even have room to mount the resistor directly on the socket for V8."

The only reason I've mentioned putting a 1Ω or 250Ω resistor ACROSS the STBY switch using gator clips was for ease of testing. You don't have to do any soldering to do the testing. Of course the STBY switch would have to be in the open position.

Is there a reason you prefer the choke between the filter caps and not a resistor?

Absolutely. Cap-choke-cap is the classic pi filter. It has much better filtering that cap-resistor-cap. If you move the position of that choke you may change the characteristic sound of the amp.

I said across the standby.  I get it now.  I was asking out of concern for damage to my other amp, the 5f4.  I have that amp Cap-resistor-cap-choke right now just messing around to see what an older super may sound like.  I plan to put it back, but I was concerned I may be doing damage.


Yes, I only quoted you partially correct and if I decide to drop any voltage AFTER GETTING THE AMP RUNNING, you can bet your sweet bippy I will test it ACROSS the switch and them find a good place to mount it.  Maybe I will have room right at pin 8.


I promise to not misquote you till the next time.

[Ed_Chambley]

switch wired up

Lego,
Look at Sluckeys schematic closely.  You will see that only 2 wires are needed.  One coming into the switch and another leaving the combined caps.  IOW, you can connect all the caps together with one wire and you will not have to make as many connections to your board.  When you turn the switch it will connect to different caps.  I wish I had a photo, but look at the schematic and you will see one wire.  What I did was make a put bus wire around a 3/4 socket and twist it.  making a round loop.  Them I cut it making a semi-circle.  Connected all the caps to this making a frame to which one wire can be connected.


In one of Sluckey's amps you can see how he has done it.  Mine is the same way, it just has a lot of caps.  Look at Sluckeys Hammond build photos and you will see it.


You may want to get the caps closer to the switch.  I am not sure how much room you will have between the switch and the board.

[SILVERGUN]

Ed,
Please put down the Percoset and Jack Daniels.......they are taking a toll 

As marvelously entertaining as this is, I am having trouble keeping up....so I can only imagine how lego feels.
 

I promise to not misquote you till the next time.

...........poor sluckey.....he's a saint

[Ed_Chambley]

Ed,
Please put down the Percoset and Jack Daniels.......they are taking a toll 

As marvelously entertaining as this is, I am having trouble keeping up....so I can only imagine how lego feels.
 

I promise to not misquote you till the next time.

...........poor sluckey.....he's a saint

How true.  None of either I must admit.  On the other hand someone has a case of Icehouse.  I ain't mentioning no names.


Sorry Lego, I am not helping so I will get out of the way.

[SILVERGUN]

Sorry Lego, I am not helping so I will get out of the way.

Now, now.....I'm not the fun police

PLEASE continue....sorry for the interruption 

This thread's already 10 pages long.....why stop now?

 

[sluckey]

Lego, Will your switch fit your chassis? I know it would not fit my chassis. You may have to put the caps very close to the switch body. I'm gonna attach a couple pics showing how I did it. And a little explanation too...

I used a 2 pole 6 position switch. You really only need one pole but those 7 contacts for the second pole will come in handy. Look at the Visio drawing. You'll see that one pole of the switch has gold colored lugs. The other pole has silver colored lugs. I strapped all seven of the silver lugs together so it's just like one buss. Notice that one gold lug is also connected to all the silver lugs. Now just connect the 5 caps to the switch as shown, keeping the body of the caps close to the body of the switch. You will need to use some insulating spaghetti on some cap leads because they will be touching other leads. (I used red because it was laying on the bench. Ed, you should use purple  ).

Finally, connect the gold wiper to the VOL control and connect the silver wiper to the board. This switch layout agrees with the switch schematic I posted earlier and I've also included a photo of my switch.

[lego4040]

  that's too funny. I prefer Xanax and Jim Beam myself. I'm getting behind and loosing where  I was in this build lately cause of work. I have a few questions, Sluckey you changed the 220k on the speed control, was that to ? Also I see you just used a 1 ohm/3watt resistor to each pin 3 on the power tubes, I like that, I think I'll do that. Where did you put your standby switch? I know it comes off pin 8 on rectifier, I'm reading Merlin and wondering exactly what you did. Bless your patience

[lego4040]

Damn that was my other question, the MBB, does that mean non grounding or grounding? Thanks for the heads up, I did not even check that I'm getting ancy and want to finish