lego's spin on Sluckey's AC15

[lego4040]

  My parts are still in Fla, I will be off project till end of next week when I get back from Buffalo. I might take a trip to Hammond themselves which is not far from my inlaws. Backordered are the 3mra pot and carling switches  Maybe Ill score some projects when Im up there

[terminalgs]

Ed, what speaker(s) are you planning to use?

In your research, what have you found to be the wood used in the original cabinet construction?

[Willabe]

What did VOX use, or is it all of the above since they seemed to change manufacturers

I seem to remember Ken Fisher saying that Vox used 5 or was it 6 different manufactures in the old AC30/15's. He had his favorite of course but that will surly be different for different peoples ears.

(I think it's in the Gerald Webber books where Webber added Kens column's from Vintage Guitar Mag.)


             Brad     

   

[sluckey]

Rain is back! Got the filaments and power supply wired and checked out.

EDIT... big pic removed.

[Willabe]

Man your a fast bugger.   

Looks great.

It's snowing here. Roof's and grass are covered already and it's still coming down.     

Grass just got nice and green the last 2 days after some rain and sun.


             Brad     

[lego4040]

It's the new season called springter I heard, I'm head out northwest to Buffalo on wensday, where it's going to be snowing tomorrow and a low of 19*. Sluckey that looks great man, I'm way behind now, it took them a week to send my stuff out and I won't be home to receive it, and the switches and 3mra pot is on back order. I'm gonna order those from somewhere else and just have the extras on hand. Collecting amp parts is Waaayyyyy more expensive then pedal parts. Next build I have everything ordered in one shot.

[Tone Junkie]

Man Im away for a few days and you guys kick butt and leave me 2 pages to catch up on. The builds look good, I love the faceplates.
Bill

[Ed_Chambley]

Ed, what speaker(s) are you planning to use?

In your research, what have you found to be the wood used in the original cabinet construction?

Single 12 Celestion Blue.


All vox cabs were birch until recently became MDF.  The Vox Showroon goes through a few different cabinet forms.  The size of the cabinet changes the tone as much if not more than the wood.  The AC15 was a small combo cab to have a 12 as the bluesbreaker cab was small for 2, 12.  I have never seen a 2, 12 AC15, but I read they are the same as the AC30 2, 12.


I have heard people say pine is warmer and birch is brighter, but I have never noticed this.  I build my cabs larger and a little deeper as this will make available a deeper response.  I can make it brighter by opening it up.


Here is some info for a replica cab.  http://www.voxshowroom.com/northcoast/vox/cabinets/ac15_TE_blk.html


You can see the materials and size.


I am doing a head with a birch 1, 12 cab.  It is 3/4 with a box joint and the back is made of 3 panels so I can tune it as close as possible.

[Ed_Chambley]

Rain is back! Got the filaments and power supply wired and checked out.

Sluckey,
Curious as to how you made your ground buss bar?  It looks like rivets with cable.  What is securing the rivets, pressure from expanding them or is this something else?


Also, what is the size of the machine screws on the tube sockets?  I like the idea of tapping and plan to follow.  They appear to be shorter than 1/4.  If so, where did you get them?  Did you use any blue thread locker?


I did get my board made, underboard wires (checked 4 times) and top jumpers.  Getting close to begin making my chassis and there are a lot of good ideas in yours I plan to rip off just as soon as I find out what you used.  That ground bar makes for a very clean look and also easy to make change if needed.

[lego4040]

Ed, reply 219 for the tap and screw sizes. Not sure on the buss rivet

[sluckey]

Curious as to how you made your ground buss bar?

That 2" buss bar is simply a piece of solid 14 AWG house wire soldered between two standoff turrets. The turrets accept a 4-40 screw through the chassis. I've attached a pic from a different angle that clearly shows the bar/turrets. I used that same buss bar in my TDR, 5E3, November, and Lightning builds. In fact that buss bar actually was donated by the Lightning.

Also, what is the size of the machine screws on the tube sockets?

1/4" long #4-40 SS phillips head machine screws. Got'em cheap on eBay.

EDIT... big pic removed.

[lego4040]

So you put a screw and nut locked into chassis then put turret on that. Did you tap the turret because of soft metal it self tapped?

[sluckey]

So you put a screw and nut locked into chassis then put turret on that. Did you tap the turret because of soft metal it self tapped?

Much simpler than that. The manufacturer does all the hard stuff. I just drill a hole in the chassis. Look at the pic of my filament string. You'll see a couple turrets installed next to the sockets. Since I'm not using Hi/Lo/ input jacks, I moved the 68K grid stopper resistors to the socket and will mount them between those turrets and the socket.

EDIT... big pic removed.

[Ed_Chambley]

So you put a screw and nut locked into chassis then put turret on that. Did you tap the turret because of soft metal it self tapped?

Much simpler than that. The manufacturer does all the hard stuff. I just drill a hole in the chassis. Look at the pic of my filament string. You'll see a couple turrets installed next to the sockets. Since I'm not using Hi/Lo/ input jacks, I moved the 68K grid stopper resistors to the socket and will mount them between those turrets and the socket.

Where do you purchase those single turrets and what are they called?  Is there any reason for the different colors?


Did you use any thread locker on the tube socket screws as I do not see any locknuts?  Overkill?

[sluckey]

Where do you purchase those single turrets and what are they called?  Is there any reason for the different colors?

I've never bought any. The ones I have were scrounged from leftovers on various equipment mods I've done to USAF and FAA systems throughout my career. My white ones are ceramic, brown is bakelite, green is some kind of hardened plastic. Color is not significant. They're not cheap and that's why you rarely if ever see them in consumer grade electronics. All the big industrial suppliers will have them. Here's a link to one...

http://www.newark.com/wearnes-cambion/572-4814-01-05-16/terminal-turret-4-40-thread-blue/dp/40F6225?MER=PPSO_N_P_Terminals_None

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-terminal-studs-Helicopter-HH-53J-M-F16-military-electrical-MIL-T-55155-10A-/380686825818?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item58a2b3f95a

Did you use any thread locker on the tube socket screws as I do not see any locknuts?

There's no need for a nut since the chassis is tapped. And I didn't use thread lock or lock washers since this amp will not be traveling. Lock washers is not a bad idea though.

[lego4040]

   6 bucks a pop on that site, 10 for 20 bucks on ebay is more feasable. heres one of those receptacle noise suppressors, this came out of a 430watt power pack for a pc. Its kinda big and looks like Id have to desolder jack to install then resolder

[terminalgs]

I'm going to try and answer my question    does this look right? Or do I loose that 1M or am I way off

what is the switch for?

[Willabe]

How did you get it out with out unsoldering it? Bust up or cut up the chassis housing?


             Brad     

[lego4040]

I used tin snips to cut around power pack. FYI folks, this cpu power pack carry a wallup just as bad as an amp. The main cap was 450volts on this one, SO BE CAREFULL

[sluckey]

This is the main reason I choose RG-316 over RG-174. The black wire is soldered directly to the RG-316 shield.

EDIT... big pic removed.

[Willabe]

That's nice, you don't have to strip a long length to run the shield to it's ground. Much neater and less waste.


                   Brad     

[Ed_Chambley]

So you put a screw and nut locked into chassis then put turret on that. Did you tap the turret because of soft metal it self tapped?

Much simpler than that. The manufacturer does all the hard stuff. I just drill a hole in the chassis. Look at the pic of my filament string. You'll see a couple turrets installed next to the sockets. Since I'm not using Hi/Lo/ input jacks, I moved the 68K grid stopper resistors to the socket and will mount them between those turrets and the socket.

Just got some of these turrets from the link you provided.  Offered a total of $30 for 20 and the offer was accepted.  I can use these a lot, I wish the new ones were less expensive.

[sluckey]

Got a little more done today...

EDIT... big pic removed.

[lego4040]

    my parts came today. Only missing 12 4/40 hex nuts. Boo, I'm away till end of next week

[HotBluePlates]

... heres one of those receptacle noise suppressors, this came out of a 430watt power pack for a pc.

That thing is an IEC inlet only, without the line filter. It might have an internal fuse holder.


But as Sluckey said, the filter is not absolutely necessary.

[SILVERGUN]

 

 

[Willabe]

  my parts came today.

All right!       


            Brad     

[Willabe]

Yeah, he's good, isn't he?

I know it's personal preference but I have to say it's the best work I've seen and I say that using a different layout style!   


          Brad     

[SILVERGUN]

Yeah, he's good, isn't he?

It's art to me...
Picasso - Smickasso     (and I love Picasso)

That should be on display at the Smithsonian!

The good news is that it's raining here too

Inspirational!.....seriously 

[sluckey]

I just hope it works!   

[Willabe]

James Taylor, "Sweet dreams and flying machines in pieces on the ground."

I'm bettin she'll fly and then some! Come on baby let's hear that vibrato!!!!!!


                Brad       

[lego4040]

Snowing here in Manhattan, SOB. Art work there Silvergun. I wasn't sure if I wanted to put leads on or not myself. I'll dream about parts while I'm away

[Ed_Chambley]

I just hope it works!   

I do too as I have a replica of your copy of sort of Vox looking thing.  I have looked it over and over and do not see any reason why not.  Could you post a close up of your input jacks?  Also, I cant quite tell what the triangular part of the switch to the right of the inputs.  Is that part of the switch?  What is it for?


Is your choke wired yet?  Is so, how?
Is that a 1/4 watt 100 ohm resistor on your speed pot?  Did you solder to the back of the pot or is it just where you soldered the resistor.  I cant see it well, but it looks like you have it on the wiper or lug 1 as it is parallel.  Is it really connecting the wiper to lug 3 and then you have a ground from lug 3 to the buss bar?  Just checking.


I a a good bit behind, but I want to attempt to get as nice of a look as you are doing.  We will see as I have gotten better.  It has to do if I have enough patience.  I love those single turrets.  Can't wait to get mine. 


You have an incredible  sense of space.  I cant wait till you wire to the tube sockets.  That is my favorite part of your work.

[tubenit]

Sluckey,

You truly do remarkable work!  That looks phenomenol.

with respect, Tubenit

[lego4040]

Ed that switch is the bright switch and that's the capacitor across the lugs. That pot is the speed pot with a 100 ohm in series to buss, instead of using three way selector one option is the 3mra pot. It's drawn up and posted in a earlier post but it's the same as the Hoffmans AB763 project

[SILVERGUN]

Art work there Silvergun.

You might have to change the name of the thread to "Sluckey's take on lego's spin of sluckey's AC15" 

Just kidding lego....keep up the good work...don't bother trying to keep up with sluckey

If I built that board it would take about 3 months and it still wouldn't look that nice!

[sluckey]

The attached pic should clear up any questions about the jacks, switch, and speed pot wiring. The choke was wired a couple days ago. You can see it in reply #231. Look for the two black wires poking thru a grommet.

EDIT... big pic removed.

[Ed_Chambley]

The attached pic should clear up any questions about the jacks, switch, and speed pot wiring. The choke was wired a couple days ago. You can see it in reply #231. Look for the two black wires poking thru a grommet.

I see it now.  I could not see where the choke wires passed the PT wires.  That is a very cool buss wire.  Man, I am learning some great techniques.


Thanks!

[lego4040]

Sluckey your right, that heavy gauge aluminum is thick stuff

[dbishopbliss]

This is the main reason I choose RG-316 over RG-174. The black wire is soldered directly to the RG-316 shield.

I'm not understanding the difference... doesn't RG-174 have a shield as well?

[lego4040]

I think the difference was that you can solder lead directly on and the Teflon covering core won't melt

[dbishopbliss]

I think the difference was that you can solder lead directly on and the Teflon covering core won't melt

Ah... I have some 89259 which has a stranded core but teflon dialectric and copper shield (not tinned).  Any reason not to use it?

[lego4040]

Other then it being stranded, I can't see why not use it unless core to thin.

[dbishopbliss]

I think these standoff terminals are similar to the one's slukey is using.

Is there an issue with using stranded wire?

[dbishopbliss]

Hey... I just read that the Hammond 1650F can be used for a Dynaco ST-35 stereo amp.  I have a set of output transformers for a Dynaco ST-35 (mine are actually magnequest).  Looking more and more like I was meant to build this amp.

[Willabe]

I think these standoff terminals are similar to the one's slukey is using.

Thanks for posing that, I just bought a bunch of them.


           Brad     

[lego4040]

I prefer stranded sometimes, you can move around more and not worry about breakage.

[drew]

I think these standoff terminals are similar to the one's slukey is using.

Thanks for posing that, I just bought a bunch of them.


           Brad     

"Diallyl Phthalate," seriously?  That's not an amp part, it's a Foster Brooks punchline.

[Ed_Chambley]

I think these standoff terminals are similar to the one's slukey is using.

Thanks for posing that, I just bought a bunch of them.


           Brad     

I looked and the ones I really wanted were sold out, imagine that.  I did get a few different kinds.  Did you notice the ceramic ones.  They are around $2.50 each which I am sure is a good price.  I have seen these things before in equipment but never really noticed them if you know what I mean.  I will be, from now on salvaging all that i see.  50 to 75¢ are not too bad considering how useful they can be doing modifications.


I am still looking for the meter jack tips that have metal threads and nuts.  I am waiting for my cap order and I know I will have one last order to get the things I either forgot or ordered wrong.  I usually will make a mistake like 2k7 instead of 27k and it will be on a wattage above what I keep on-hand.


I am going shopping for something to use for buss wire.  I want something more rigid than the copper I usually use.  I am not sure what Sluckey is using or if it is very rigid, but I do really like the style in which it is implemented.  Looks very clean.

[Ed_Chambley]

James Taylor, "Sweet dreams and flying machines in pieces on the ground."

I'm bettin she'll fly and then some! Come on baby let's hear that vibrato!!!!!!


                Brad       

The vibrato is way cool, but keep in mind the normal channel has a unique tone all of its own and a different touch than any other amp.  There I go reminiscing again.  I have begun to worry some that my memory may be playing tricks, but a lot of people go through great extremes to attempt to recreate these amps.  Some people I have emailed have made exact replicas.  There are not near as many people building them as it is harder to clone one.  The reproduction cabinets North Coast has are really beginning to help the Vox to be cloned.